Morimoto HID kit from TRS, review

vroom

Member
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CX-5 GS AWD 2014, Sky Blue Mika
Well, I finally got to install my Morimoto Kit from TRS on my non-tech Touring, so I thought I might share my thoughts on how they perform. The kit I got was the Morimoto Elite H11 with the 3Five DSP (35W) and the XB35 5000K (pure white) bulbs.

I do not have the tools to produce a scientific level comparison between HIDs and the OEM halogens so hopefully the pictures I gathered will suffice. All pictures below were taken with a Canon DSLR camera with the following parameters:

F number: 3.5
ISO: 800
White balance: 5200K

The white balance was chosen because it produced the best match to what my eyes could see.

Light pattern:

Here is a picture of the light pattern from the OEM halogens

W1SVC2M.jpg


And here is a picture of the light pattern for the HIDs

VyZmGaM.jpg


In order to compare the light pattern of the halogens to that of the the HIDs while removing the bias introduced by changes in intensity, I set up my camera to capture about the same quantity of light. In this case, the halogens picture was taken with an exposure of 1/125 s while the HID picture used 1/400 s.

For me, the light patterns are practically identical: the cutoff is exactly in the same spot and both bulb types exhibit bright spots in the same locations. The downward falloff from the hot spots might be slightly less pronounced for the HID bulbs. Normally this can be a problem, since it can cause an over bright foreground which can reek havoc on you night vision. In this case, the difference is so slight I doubt it will have any impact at all. Both bulb types also produce the same level of light uniformity.

As for light bleed above the cutoff, the two are also practically identical when considered proportionally to the bulb brightness. In fact, the return wire on the XB35 bulbs cast a vertical shadow above the cutoff because of their particular position (as opposed to on the ground with standard HID bulbs), reducing the glair even more than with halogen bulbs. This becomes more obvious in the pictures that follow below. In fact I strongly recommend getting the XB35 bulbs for that very reason, and because a return wire shadow on the ground would be distracting.

Brightness:

As mentioned above, I had to use an exposure nearly three times faster with the HIDs to get the equivalent brightness in the pictures. That means that the HIDs produce about 3 times as much light as the OEM H11 halogens. And man does it make a difference! Below are the same images as above, but with 1/100 s exposures for both images.

The halogens:

jYoCs63.jpg


The HIDs

3kAk3f8.jpg


As you can see, the difference is almost literally night and day. On the other hand, with similar exposures you can see a bit more bleed above the cutoff for the HIDs. In the discussion about pattern, I said that bleed above cutoff was similar proportionally to bulb intensity. That means that with the increased HID intensity, you also get more bleed, even if the cutoff is just as sharp. To get an idea of how this might affect glair for oncoming traffic I placed my camera just above the cutoff and took this picture:

jjiUDh5.jpg


It might not be obvious on the picture, but just above the cutoff, the headlights produce no more light than the fog lights, which are designed to prevent glair (I find them more decorative than anything else). Note that my fog lights are equipped with 860 lumen 5000K H11 LED bulbs from VLEDs. This convinces me that glair should not be an issue with this HID kit in the OEM halogen projectors.

Color and warm-up time:

After turning these on for the first time, it took about 5 seconds for them to brighten up and reach a nice constant white color with no hint of yellow or blue, and even a nice purple fringe above the cutoff. I don't expect to be in any real driving condition prior to 5 seconds after turning on the car, so 5 seconds is really acceptable. To me, the 100 lumen hit between the 4300K and 5000K bulbs is well worth it in order to get this gorgeous white color, but this is obviously subjective. Most HID pictures shown here were taken in the first minutes after turning them on. The color might change slightly after a wear-in period, but I expect the effect to be minor. On initial turn on, these go trough a pink to blue hue before reaching pure white. Here comes my only minor annoyance: both bulbs do not go trough the pink-blue-white cycle at the same time, so it looks like you have a disco light show in front of your car. But then again, it only lasts 5 seconds and might disappear after the break-in period.

Conclusion:

I have only just driven down a few blocks with these, but I am already in love! I love the brightness, the color and the surprisingly good light pattern (especially after reading so many rants on plug-in HID kits on other forums). How do these compare to the OEM HIDs? I don't know since I don't have them. In any case, I think that this overall minor 150$ upgrade is worth every penny!

If there is sufficient interest, I might post the installation procedure in the How-to section...
 
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Looks good! The Bi-Xenon in the Tech package look similar, at least in respect to the white balance. No ugly dull yellow hue.
 
Nice, seriously considering to get HID for my Touring, been considering since I bought the car last year lol. I'll wait a bit more longer for the refresh of the TRS Morimoto ballast + possibly new XB35 bulbs. Pretty good cut off for a PNP kit for sure. Only thing I would need to do is aim the headlight a little bit down as it seems to be aimed high from factory or dealer (not sure who aimed the light) for my car at least.
 
I got the exact swme setup from TRS. The only problem i had was that i kept getting flashed by on coming cars. So i aimed the beam down a little and i havent been flashed since.
 
I got the exact swme setup from TRS. The only problem i had was that i kept getting flashed by on coming cars. So i aimed the beam down a little and i havent been flashed since.
Most of my commute is on a dark road with oncoming traffic, so I guess I'll see what happens this fall when it starts getting dark earlier. From other owners here I gather that not all units are aimed the same. I know that my cutoff is well below the rear window of cars I follow so I'm optimistic. If I get any grief from other drivers I'll follow your lead and lower the beams...
 
Vroom, are you saying the whole kit was 150? Or per side it was 150? I'm on their site and feel really dense for even asking..


and did you get canbus or relay?
 
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Vroom, are you saying the whole kit was 150? Or per side it was 150? I'm on their site and feel really dense for even asking..
Actually, with the XB35 bulbs it's 20$ more so 170$, but I got them 20% off on the 4th of July sale, so they cost me 140$. And yes, this is for the entire kit, including bulbs for both sides.

BTW, don't ever feel dense for asking anything... The most intelligent people I know ask the most questions!
 
I wanted to get the HID since I got the car last year but never get around to it. The light output look really good. If you could post some pictures how to install them would be great, at least where to mount the ballast, I find the headlight area on the driver side really tight.
 
I wanted to get the HID since I got the car last year but never get around to it. The light output look really good. If you could post some pictures how to install them would be great, at least where to mount the ballast, I find the headlight area on the driver side really tight.

good thing you waited. if you had bought them earlier, you likely would have had TRS to send you out a new pair of ballasts. After installing mine last summer, both headlights kept flickering.. but they upgraded their ballasts and sent me a new pair. no issues since.

I agree 100% with the OP''s assessment. really well built, instructions are spot on, and you will not be disappointed in their output. i have the 3Five DSP (35W) and the XB35 6000K (white with a hint of blue) bulbs.

my issue was not realizing that i was trying to insert the mori kit (low beam) into my high beam casing. lol...i got it sorted out...eventually with the help of others in the community.
 
Wow, someone who actually used a real camera with a tripod and same settings, exposure etc. You're the first person I have ever seen do this. Great freaking job. I'd buy you a beer if I could!
 
Did you (vroom and yunvi) got canbus or relay? because you have to choose one or the other from the order page. From what I understand, I think we need the relay instead of canbus.
 
Wow, someone who actually used a real camera with a tripod and same settings, exposure etc. You're the first person I have ever seen do this. Great freaking job. I'd buy you a beer if I could!

Thanks nXt! I have a scientific background so doing things as objectively as I can is part of my nature. Wish I could have put my hands on a light meter though so I could have also posted readings of light intensity at different points in and out of the light pattern...

Did you (vroom and yunvi) got canbus or relay? because you have to choose one or the other from the order page. From what I understand, I think we need the relay instead of canbus.

You only need the relay tdman. From what I understand, the canobus is for cars with special burnt bulb detection systems or things like that. I'll try to post a few pictures of my balast placement here when I get the time, and maybe do a more complete write-up of the installation procedure in the How-to section later. This is my first time tinkering with a car, and I had no problems, so you should do fine.
 
You only need the relay tdman. From what I understand, the canobus is for cars with special burnt bulb detection systems or things like that. I'll try to post a few pictures of my balast placement here when I get the time, and maybe do a more complete write-up of the installation procedure in the How-to section later. This is my first time tinkering with a car, and I had no problems, so you should do fine.

(iagree)
 
Here is where I have installed my ballasts, they are not Morimotos though. Maybe, when these will go out.
 

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Nice write up vroom. what bulbs do you have in your oem fog lights? where can i get them and do they match the hids in color output? what about the drls, did you replace them also?
 
Nice review and photos! It's no surprise a good quality kit works acceptably well in the CX-5's projectors with proper aiming. I've done several pnp kits in other projectors with similar results!
 
I did not have good luck with those slim ballast kits. I'm using, the old school big ballasts. and the wiring that comes out is pressed on , not that screw on nut type.
 

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Will they work as in produce light, probably. How well or for how long, I can't tell you since I haven't tested these. I decided to stay away from cheap eBay kits because I learned long ago, as runtohell121 said, you usually get what you pay for. I intend on keeping my car for a long time, and I don't intend on changing my HID kit every 2 years, so I went for what seemed to be the best from the research I did.

If you ever get these, tell us what you think!
 
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