Method of Auto Trans service
- Thread starter sethro_GT
- Start date
I used to drive a ’93 Volvo and self-transmission flushes were common.
Materials:
About six feet of clear flexible plastic tubing, 3/8” ID if I remember right. A transmission funnel. Enough transmission fluid to cover the volume of fluid in your transmission, plus a couple extra quarts. A few milk jugs, marked with a permanent marker to show quarts (add a quart of water to find this line, etc).
OK, this is the tricky part. Find the line that goes from the radiator cooler to the transmission, disconnect it and put your plastic tubing on the nub on the radiator. It will be a snug fit. Put the other end in a milk jug on the driver’s side of the car. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick and put the funnel in there. If it doesn’t fit get a different funnel, but if you are using a transmission funnel it will fit. Open up a few quarts of the new fluid. Start the engine. Transmission fluid will be pumped into the milk jugs. As fluid enters the jug be adding fresh fluid through the funnel – keep the level of fluid pretty constant (for each quart out have one quart of fresh fluid in, that’s why the milk jugs are marked, so you can tell pretty accurately how much has come out). At some point shift the transmission to each gear for five seconds or so. Eventually you will see fresh transmission fluid going through the hose (which is why you want a clear hose), at that point turn off of the engine, reconnect the cooler to the transmission, let the engine run a little and check the fluid level.
Take the used transmission fluid (in the milk jugs) to your local mechanic, they will take it at no cost.
Here are some instructions for Volvos if you wanted to see a more "official" writeup:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#7XX940FluidFlush
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/sku_files/5310_INST.PDF
Besides my Volvo, I did this on my '95 Toyota Camry. My current cars are both manual transmission so it's been a few years since I've done this.
Note that the filter was not changed. On the Volvo it was recommended to not change the filter unless you were having transmission issues. Changing it just increased the chance of a leak.
Edit: this is close to what d-machine describes above though I wouldn't do three quarts at a time. Just let it drain (pump) constantly while adding fresh fluid constantly, until the fluid leaving the system looks "new".
Materials:
About six feet of clear flexible plastic tubing, 3/8” ID if I remember right. A transmission funnel. Enough transmission fluid to cover the volume of fluid in your transmission, plus a couple extra quarts. A few milk jugs, marked with a permanent marker to show quarts (add a quart of water to find this line, etc).
OK, this is the tricky part. Find the line that goes from the radiator cooler to the transmission, disconnect it and put your plastic tubing on the nub on the radiator. It will be a snug fit. Put the other end in a milk jug on the driver’s side of the car. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick and put the funnel in there. If it doesn’t fit get a different funnel, but if you are using a transmission funnel it will fit. Open up a few quarts of the new fluid. Start the engine. Transmission fluid will be pumped into the milk jugs. As fluid enters the jug be adding fresh fluid through the funnel – keep the level of fluid pretty constant (for each quart out have one quart of fresh fluid in, that’s why the milk jugs are marked, so you can tell pretty accurately how much has come out). At some point shift the transmission to each gear for five seconds or so. Eventually you will see fresh transmission fluid going through the hose (which is why you want a clear hose), at that point turn off of the engine, reconnect the cooler to the transmission, let the engine run a little and check the fluid level.
Take the used transmission fluid (in the milk jugs) to your local mechanic, they will take it at no cost.
Here are some instructions for Volvos if you wanted to see a more "official" writeup:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#7XX940FluidFlush
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/sku_files/5310_INST.PDF
Besides my Volvo, I did this on my '95 Toyota Camry. My current cars are both manual transmission so it's been a few years since I've done this.
Note that the filter was not changed. On the Volvo it was recommended to not change the filter unless you were having transmission issues. Changing it just increased the chance of a leak.
Edit: this is close to what d-machine describes above though I wouldn't do three quarts at a time. Just let it drain (pump) constantly while adding fresh fluid constantly, until the fluid leaving the system looks "new".
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I did the atf flush on the 5 last night. I might have considered just a doing a drain/fill, but the colour was too brownish for that. Maybe in the future I'll do the drain/fill at shorter intervals. The car has 45,000kms and was also a rental car for the first 24,000 of it's life.
I did not change the filter as I didn't have the filter and Mazda here doesn't even stock it. I do see that Wix has a nice kit that includes the gasket and fliter for $20 where Mazda charges way more. They just go with the machine method and a flush chemical and $200 Canadian. I was interested in going with Amsoil ATF instead of the m-v(M5). A local lube shop would hook it up to their machine and use Amsoil for $230.
I built wooden ramps that I'll use for both my cars. My old-school steel ramps simply wouldn't work for the 5 or my other car. I even tried a 2x6 in front of the ramps and the 5's bumper still hit the ramps. I also feel more comfortable with the wooden ramps as I have to run the engine for the flush. I could have bought lower profile rhino ramps, but the ramps I built but the car a bit higher.
As in the above write-up 8mm hex to remove the drain plug my service writer say doesn't exist. Hardest part is getting the clamp off the line-out on the transmission cooler only because clamp faces up which makes it a bit more difficult to remove. I hooked up 3/8 tubing and put the other end in a plastic jug I had labeled in quarts. I was able to have the jug over on the driver's side so that I could watch the fluid coming out. It came out a little slower than expected, which was helpful when doing the job without an assistant. I pumped out 2or3 quarts at a time and then added the same back into the tranny.
In the end it was an easy job for the most part. I probably got a carried away and used an extra quart during the flush, but I wanted to make sure I got as much fluid out as I could. The fluid on the dipstick is now bright pink instead of brown. It will be interesting to see how the colour changes over the next year or so.
After the job I noticed that shift where a lot smoother compared to the old fluid. I guess time will tell on how worthwhile this service was.
Found "Global ATF" of O'Reilly brand that states it is compatible with Mazda MV fluid amongst many others. Basically similar compatibility as Mobile one at $3 less per quart. Picked up 12 QT for under $60. Going to give this a try and now I'm to to worried about the volume required to self flush the trans. Will give it a go this weekend.
link to PDF
http://oreillylubetech.com/PDS/Global ATF.pdf
link to PDF
http://oreillylubetech.com/PDS/Global ATF.pdf
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Yep - 9 will probably do it. I probably used 10 because I was unsure and my garage was a bit on the dark side and it was hard to be sure of the fluid color change.
Even with expensive Amsoil, the service was still cheaper than a shop and a machine, so I didn't mind putting a bit extra throw.
Did the change today and the fluid was BLACK as engine oil, not a hint of red left in it. 45k miles is probably too long to wait for a service, I'm going to do it again at 60k (and the filter) and go 30k intervals. Took about 9 quarts to do the home flush. Since my funnel wouldn't fill as fast as it pumped out I would pump out 2 quarts, turn it off, fill, repeat. The fluid isn't entirely red but its 100% better than it was, I can't believe it still ran flawless. Used that Oreily Global ATF so we'll see how it holds up.
Some pics
Some pics
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On my Volvo and Toyota, the car did not have to be in drive to activate the pump. It is running if the engine is running. Though you do want to shift through the gears for about five seconds per gear during the process to make sure the transmission is properly flushed. And the car should be flat during this process, not on a ramp or jacked up (SethroGT did it right by having his Mazda5 flat).
And put the milk jug (or other jug) on the driver's side, so while you are sitting and shifting you can keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't overflow. Or have a helper.
SethroGT, did you take a picture of the nub on which you connected the hose?
And put the milk jug (or other jug) on the driver's side, so while you are sitting and shifting you can keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't overflow. Or have a helper.
SethroGT, did you take a picture of the nub on which you connected the hose?
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A big Thanks to to the guys that answered the questions in this thread. We picked up an 08 M5 a few weeks ago and the first order of business was flushing the tranny. Everything went smooth and the little lady's car is running on fresh Mobil1 Synthetic ATF now. Can't say it made any difference but I feel better. Being the pan has a drain plug, I'm gonna go for regular fluid changes in the pan. No one installs a drain plug from the factory if they didn't intend it to be a regular maintenance issue.(my opinion anyway) Figure I'll give it a looksy at the second oil change and see what color it is. Went ahead and changed the motor over to Mobil1 too. Knocks on wood...the little minicar sure runs smooth.
AT's work via oil pressure so the pump is always running if the engine is running.
No pic for the nub, there's a good picture on page two. Its the one on the drivers side of the cooler. It was jacked up a little to allow me easier access under. I didn't shift while filling but I did put the hose back on half way through it and shift through all then continued the flush.
No pic for the nub, there's a good picture on page two. Its the one on the drivers side of the cooler. It was jacked up a little to allow me easier access under. I didn't shift while filling but I did put the hose back on half way through it and shift through all then continued the flush.
SGT_OKINAWA
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda CX-7
Sarge, do not use gear oil in place of tranny fluid. Ask mazda to send you a case from the closest dealer, using poor Japanese skills or excellent Japanese wife's skills.
Turns out, never need to change the fluid, I had a brain fart and forgot I asked the dealer to change, air filter, oil, oil filter, trans fluid, brakes and battery BEFORE I BOUGHT IT, my trans fluid is pink as a (insert whatever reference you want here). So I'm all good and trans fluid change, I'm going to leave to the pros.
Peace!(rei)
What's the smell like of new Oreilly ATF? New Amsoil ATF smells quite awful, and from other forums, it sounds like Mobil 1 smells terrible as well. Hard to know when used fluid is not smelling correctly when the new stuff is so awful. Maybe the synthetic atf's smell worse?
My fluid wasn't maybe black in colour - maybe a more of a dirty gray(45,000km). Because I put through 10 qts, I did end up with nice reddish/pink fluid, but I probably flushed more fluid through then necessary. Still cheaper than the dealership and their machine.
So far, around 2700km on the new atf.
And if Sarge is reading this, I drained the fluid using a hex socket on the drain plug the service writer said didn't exist : )
The Oreilly smelled the same as the OEM stuff, awful. My wife complained about the smell of the recycle bin every time she walked by till I moved it. When I was a mechanic for the local sheriff (years ago) we used some fancy ATF that smelled the same from Lubrication Engineers.
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Then I guess the consensus is atf smells bad. In the past I only ever checked atf, never doing the change myself to truly experience the smell. I noticed that the old stuff smelled bad, but not burnt.
I hope after 2 years or so the new atf looks a lot better than what the original did in the same time span.
I hope after 2 years or so the new atf looks a lot better than what the original did in the same time span.
Just wanted to add that you can take the used ATF to your local mechanic or Wal-Mart, they'll take it at no charge to you. If they do try to charge you, just go to the next one though I've never heard of a mechanic trying to charge to take used oil / ATF / manual transmission fluid.
