Mazda5 Replacement Axles?
- Thread starter Silentnoise713
- Start date
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
I can't tell but my car is old and not a good benchmark.
If you can afford downtime and can DIY or know a reputable rebuilder, I recommend having OEM axles rebuilt. If/When another +12 owner replaces their own axles, offer to pay them to ship old stock your way and you can take your time (or rebuilder) and have it refreshed -one man's trash is another man's treasure.
The SKF 14006 I bought from Rockauto (made in Taiwan) are inferior quality compared to OEM; I'd recommend buying OEM since it is not a super expensive item. IIRC, it is the same seal on both sides but not sure about the seal# for intermediate shaft. The OEM seal still looked/felt really good after 150K, but you just have to do it since everything is apart anyway.Hmm. SKF seems to think the 14006 is for both the auto and the manual. Corresponds to Mazda PN F003-27-238C.
They also say "Quantity: 1".
Same seal on both sides?
Thanks. Looking for the OE PNs, though.
Emailed my Mazda dealership today. Let's see what they say.
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
SKF is always my third choice behind Timken and NTN.
The NTN bearing I bought was American made and worked perfectly.
To be honest, Mazda doesn't make bearings. They source them from (usually) Timken. I would have gotten a Timken, but I simply couldn't find one for sale, which is why I went NTN.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Agree on Timken and NTN for bearings. I don't believe either offer axle seals, which only leaves SKF as the top pick of the aftermarket bunch (there might be better options I didn't come across). I've never used Febest parts but based on BITOG user experiences/reviews, they are not good.
Finally convinced myself to do this. Placed the order... and got an immediate email back saying they're OOS.
Probably going to take the L on quality and go Autozone. At least it's a W on price and wouldn't be hard to return.
Going OE for the axle seals though. The PN you found, now superseded by F003-27-238C, seems to be correct.
Wish me luck!
Inner boots on both axles started leaking grease from under the clamps. The boots seem ok.
Would it make sense to try to re-clamp the boots, adding grease in the process?
This was discovered while getting ATF flushed at the official dealer. The whole interaction with the service looks weird. Nothing was mentioned about both sway bar links having completely busted boots, and the axles replacement was suggested after the ATF flush. Wouldn't it require getting ATF out again for swapping the axles?
Would it make sense to try to re-clamp the boots, adding grease in the process?
This was discovered while getting ATF flushed at the official dealer. The whole interaction with the service looks weird. Nothing was mentioned about both sway bar links having completely busted boots, and the axles replacement was suggested after the ATF flush. Wouldn't it require getting ATF out again for swapping the axles?
I would.
I'd think so. Did you ask them why they suggested doing the ATF flush first?
I wonder if this happened because I switched to P while still rolling, making the car stop with a clank.
Initially, I came in for ATF flush, wanted to go the OEM way. I can definitely tell the difference in shifting now.
Most probably, this is their practice, - quoting $2K for both axles change includes ATF flush anyway. Maybe, it's a way to increase customer retention - come back for axles, stay for the sway bar links.
I'm going to try to fix the boots, if they are torn-torn, then yeah, gotta go for the new axles.
Not sure about what grease I would add in those inner boots. Did yours had time to leak a lot?
I had the issue on driver side last spring and believe I caught it soon enough that just a small part of the grease leaked. So, I just removed the old clamp, cleaned things up and put a new clamp.
I don't think the leak started long ago and as far as I can see, it didn't even lose too much grease to be concerned about adding more.
I will work on the car some time this week and will share my experience later.
Picture attached is the current state of the driver's side boot. Passenger side has similar loss of grease, I believe.
Attachments
That's a bit more spilled grease on the boot than I had on mine. Once you remove the old clamp, make sure there's still some inside trying to escape ;-)
I've used this cheap kit successfully on my second attempt. 1st one, I cut the strap too short to fold it correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (referral removed)
I've used this cheap kit successfully on my second attempt. 1st one, I cut the strap too short to fold it correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (referral removed)
