-Mazda MP3 Turbo + Engine Rebuild-

[Keatonc]

Mazda MP3 Engine Rebuild, and Turbo
Hey, I'm glad to be part of this forum and glad your reading this. But Recently my 2001 MP3 engine blew, and I decided to do all the work myself. I'm inexperienced but very eager and patient and want to learn this, I hope you can help me out. I will post on this periodically and show my work, progress, and ask for help. I hope this thread will be used for others wanting to do the same. So lets get down to the details.

Since my engine blew, I am going to rebuild it. I am also going to turbo it. Currently I have the engine ready to lift out and get to work on. I haven't ordered any parts yet because I am hoping any of you could guide me to the goodies. I'm planning on removing the engine by next week (need to borrow a lift). During this week of non-work I will order parts.

My first question(s) to you are:
-What parts on the engine do I need to upgrade in order to comply with the turbo upgrade? I researched and all I could manage to figure out is mainly the piston heads, cams and whatnot to reduce compression ratio (which i'm confused on)
-Which tubo would be best, least lag, most power, basically all over best turbo?
-What parts do I need for the turbo to be installed and fully functional?

And finally when I am at the end of the project, I will pull all of the information, neatly organize it, and create a visual and well explained tutorial for this forum section on rebuilding and turboing the MP3 engine. This will hopefully become a community project which will lead to a community help page for all. Thanks!!
-Keaton

 

[tweety2300]

There is actually a write up on this in the p5 section.

You need to upgrade rods before pistons they are the weakest link. Your main choices is pauter or k1

For pistons you don't need lower compression unless you want a lot of power then go 8.5:1 is what most people use.

You can use stock cams

For parts you need you can find the info in the p5 section that thread is a sticky so it's always at the top of the page.

Any specific problems or questions you should post in the msp section as they're the same cars but came with turbo stock

I would highly advise you to search and read brain mp5t build. If it can be done he has done it and taken pictures

 

[Keatonc]

vOk, so the write up just shows how to tune the current P5 engine, but besides what it says, are the Rods the only thing I need to upgrade?

And I found this: http://www.cpboost.com/CPBOOST-TURBO-KIT-cpboosturbkit1.htm
What in addition to this would I need?

I'm going to read the MP5t build now.

EDIT: Ok, I'm only gonna focus on getting the engine back to working condition right now. All this information is just blended together in my head and doesn't work. I'm gonna get Pauter Billet rods, And I want to get CP pistons (8.5:1) but where do I order those?

-Once I get my engine out I will also find the broken part and fix it, sadly I think it could be one of the cams.

-I am also getting a little kit with all the belts.

FINALLY: Is this website a bad idea? (order all the parts then assemble by myself)
http://www.street unit.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SUFSBAB
(del the space)

 

[destineal]

M. Tech Billet Connecting Rods are an option also. Go ahead and read the MP5t build thread if you want to blow your mind.

 

[tweety2300]

Look at speed circuit.net they have a lot of stuff.

What exactly happens to your motor? You can assemble everything yourself but you will still need to do machine work and you may want to plan on doing a .010 overbore because the cylinder walls are probly worn down.

As for that kit you can use that but you can also spend less than half that if you piece everything together yourself

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ng-your-P5-Here-s-a-guide-for-getting-started

This is what I wanted you to read. P5 motor is exactly the same as ours

 

[Keatonc]

I'm not sure until I get the motor out. But basically it was idling bad, I didn't check it, then it clattered and lost alot of HP. I think either a rod broke or part of the cam broke. It was real bad.
-----
^thanks for that link, as for all the mechanical parts go on the list, I can install those after I put my engine back together?

I'm just wanting to know which things I need to do in order to be able to just throw in the engine, then be able to put on the turbo after I break in the new engine components without removing the engine again.

And for the .010 overbore, that on the piston head correct? and i just specify that when I order? (where should I order CP piston heads from?)

 

[talltim]

Not knocking you at all but if it just "clattered and lost alot of HP. I think either a rod broke or part of the cam broke." I doubt you have a rod or cam broke. How does the oil look like? First think I would suggest is to pull the valve cover maybe you broke a rocker. If you dropped a valve and/or broke a spring then you likely have to do a rebuilt or just get a replacement engine; it may be a lot cheaper. Pull the valve cover first; it'll give you a good idea where to go.

 

[tweety2300]

He's wanting to build the the motor so he can turbo safely. It's hard to tell what broke without being there and seeing it

 

[Keatonc]

]No, feel free to knock me, I am acting like I know what I am doing. But I just went and removed the valve cover. Didn't really know what to look at, but I noticed the cams were good and the rods (from what I could see) didn't look broken. I was just saying that there was a literal cling noise when the engine was on, then it turned into a loud clack. I couldn't even go above 20 mph, and I had to stay below 2500 RPM. Any idea what it could've been?
heres some general pics, i can take more close up if, just tell me where.

 

[tweety2300]

Jiggle the lifters if you can move them up and down a lot it's a ticking lifter. It's ok if you can jiggle them up and down a little bit.

Sounds more like a spun rod bearing

 

[Keatonc]

SO i just went in there a jiggled every component i could get my hands on. (don't know exactly what the lifters are, but i assumed that they were underneath the tear-drop shaped parts of the cam) and everything in there was tight as could be. Nothing jiggled at ALL. Could the problem have came from the fact I only used regular octane fuel, I never knew until recently it required 93.

Also, do the camgears look aligned? is this the problem:

 

[tweety2300]

The I should line up with the E I think it's been awhile since I've done it. 87 won't hurt it as I generally run it when gas prices go up. No offense but if you don't know what lifters are do not attempt to build your motor on your own. Atleast have someone help you that knows what they're doing

 

[Keatonc]

I'm gonna build it regardless, this is how I am going to learn - no better way to learn than to dive right in. And I will have someone to help. I mean within a week i went from knowing nothing, to have my engine out and ready to put new parts in. I'm just here to learn and then help others once I become experienced. Thanks for your help though, I will ask someone to come by and check what the problem was. Once I get the new parts ready to install I will Post an update on this thread.

 

[tweety2300]

I'm not saying not to do it. I'm saying don't do it by yourself. There's a lot more to it than just pulling stuff out and puting it back in. There's bearing clearances that need to be measured ring gap has to be measured an probly adjusted etc. therees a lot there and a lot that can be messed up without knowing what to do. It's not hard to do if you take your time and do it right

 

[Keatonc]

I'm planning on taking a while so I hope this works out. I'll definitely be here for when I turbo it though. I will just document the engine then throw together a walkthrough thing for others that started at the same place I am at.

 

[tweety2300]

Brian mp5t actually already did one if you want to go through it and get an idea of what you will be doing

 

[Spiced MSP]

yeah, there are a couple of pretty detailed build threads here. Brianmp5t and MaxxMazda both have a detailed thread on their builds. Those will definitely be the guys you need to talk to about building the motor right

 

[MP3Night]

You probably spun a bearing, I just finished doing a build on a P5 motor and also did a rebuild on my MP3. A lot work no doubt but totally worth it in the end. I spun a bearing on my motor then again I was turbo charged. The two guys Spiced MSP suggested know they're stuff.

 

[Keatonc]

Ok. Found an engine, getting it in 4 days. I'm planning on keeping it naturally aspirated for now, gonna get a short ram intake. But a question for exhaust which I cannot find on the internet. There is a "pre-converter" and a "post-converter." If I get a new header, will having the post-converter be pointless in the setup? WIll it still pass emissions with only post converter? and if i buy a cat-back exhaust, does this come with the cat, and to which cat does it connect (pre or post)..

Finally, If I put both the new header and the catback exhaust on,(assuming this will still have the post-converter) will this pass/run?
I know i may need to do some wire-resistor soldering to pass the 02 sensor on the header.

 

[tweety2300]

The is a precat that is only for cold starts after tht it does nothing and the main cat takes over which is what pulls all the bad stuff out. Most high flow cats will do a better job than the oem one. If you get an obx header it will remove the precat. Cat back bolt to the main cat so you will keep that