Except for me it is because my experience is almost 100kmi of daily driving vs 1 episode of top gear with a bunch of questionable variables on a different car with who knows what parts. Not only is my CG lower (I'm guessing that show had sedans/hatchbacks and not a 8-9 inch CUV) but in lowering my car I've added stiffer springs and in my case adjustable struts as well... i.e not some cheap s*** form ebay with a questionable spring rate that might be less than stock, or stock with a lower height.. They are matched for my ride height and then I can adjust the dampening as desired/needed. My car isn't significantly better at cornering simply because it's lower. Also my front camber is adjustable directly on the shock body.
Just because you lowered the car doesn't mean the cornering is automatically better either
You can still adjust your camber into spec with the appropriate part. Just like you can reset your sway bar (should and sometimes 100% have to) into the correct angle with the appropriate part. If you feel so inclined, you can adjust your toe with the appropriate part as well; something I highly doubt was done for this episode. That alone are 3 arms/link that you can get for the CX-5; " OEM upper arm" (aka camber arm) "Lateral Link" (aka toe arm, also camber adjuster), 'Stabiliser link" (aka adjustable end links).. not to mention adjustable tie rods. All of those are readily available items I could order right now from Hardrace and or Autoexe, JBR Corksport, Megan Racing etc.. And really, when you are talking aftermarket, you really are free to use whatever angles you like since the OEM angles probably aren't giving the best cornering for your new set up anyways. Having a poor alignment can affect your cornering especialyl camber and that's usually the first thing to become off when you lower. Since this was an instrumented test comparing aftermarket mods to a "proper" oem set up, how is it even reputable if they didn't at least try to set the alignment to oem specs? It's like when you look at these AWD comparison and the winning car has winter tires and the competitor is on all seasons or something. Doesn't sound to me like they were actually looking for a legit outcome aside form production value of the next episode. For roads, my car sits about the height of a mazda 6. If I wanted to I could raise it higher but I don't need to because basically, I don't take my cx-5 anywhere I couldn't pass with a sedan like a mazda6. I bought it for it's many qualities, but ground clearance wasn't one of them. If there was a mazda6 wagon with AWD here (like in Japan), I would probably be driving that. Although VERY subjective I do fine on real roads and have fun; I avoid potholes always regardless of my ride height. Feeling the road is like feeling the flight controls in that it's part of the feedback I use while deciding what to do when driving.
"Sway bars" or more properly anti-roll bar angles aren't locating the wheels. They might bind a bit or break if the mounting position moves too far. An alignment can correct for static camber and caster but can't change the fact that you are operating in the wrong part of the camber curve. The suspension is designed for the static setting to be at the normal ride height and a lowered car shifts them to the end of the travel. If you stiffen it up so it barely moves and run on smooth surfaces it may stick pretty good. Driving such a set up on real roads is no fun.
Keeping in mind this is an NA car. Also ECU controlled. On our engine, I don't think of intakes and exhausts pshhysically tuning for more airflow but more as tools to allow the ECU to be tuned for maximum airflow. Considering the OEM equipment is made for the OEM calibration with noise, reliablilty emissions and other things in mind.
Most people already know for an NA engine an intake doesn't do much by itself. I mean when you look at a dyno from the manufacturer and see a 5hp gain it's obviously not doing much. For a show like top lol *gear to feel they need to point out that 5hp is not a lot is pretty dumb and shows what they think of demographic watching their show. Of course it's not simply where the peak hp/tq was it's the change in the power curve that usually comes along with one of both of these mods. But I don't think you've ever data logged a motor before let alone one in the process of tuning. You can easily read directly from our ECU the total g/s or mass airflow. I personally have logged the 2.0 and the 2.5 and for sure, even though my g/s increased simply by adding an intake, it increased even more by the arrival of my last/latest (tune) revision.
The engine is flow limited not only physically by something like an intake but also physically by intake and exhaust timing. Our engine reads a certain volume of air, based off the dimension of the OEM MAF and determines how much fuel is needed. If you go add an intake with an incorrect sized maf, chances are you are running rich or lean. In our cars (most modern cars) this pretty much will throw a code and it will negatively affect the performance of your engine. This is not some 1975 carbureted engine we are talking about. Pretty much every part of the combustion cycle is controlled or can be controlled through the ECU on this car. There are alot of thing to manipulate to get the most out of a powerstroke (hundreds of pids) that don't necessarily involve adding more fuel (I've recorded lea conditions as much as 1:30 if I remember correctly).
I don't know what you mean here. Changes to intake and exhaust are attempts to tune for more airflow. If you mean to say it won't flow more air unless you run modified maps in the ECU you are all wet. Flowing more air won't mean more power unless you add fuel but the engine is an air pump. Changes to the intake tract can make it flow more air regardless of the air/fuel map. The main reason intake mod's don't add much if any horsepower is that the factory engineers have already done a pretty good job. Mostly those intake kits just make more noise.
Fact is, there is so much information available on the many mazda forums and outlets stating otherwise.. and considering how many mazdas are actually competition raced... Pretty much every push/pull arm on the suspension can be swapped as needed for an adjustable version. The LCA is just one part of the suspension, and one that is rarely changed out.. in fact he term LCA (lower control arm?) applies to a different assembly on a WRX for example than it does on our car.. I've seen an aftermarket LCA for the mazda 2 (which is a winning bspec racer BTW) and it's roll adjustable just sligthly..They aren't even allowed to use it and they race for cash money. That's not even a part people usually touch so if you want to say technically the set up is subpar, ok, but that certainly doesn't mean that everything else is moot and somehow automatically gives less performance than OEM. I'm sure if you go to a local sports car club of america autox the cars getting the best times do not have a stock suspension, tune or intake/exhaust. If so you have a weak showing in your area lol.
You can pay a million dollars for your springs and shocks but unless you change the length's of the control arms and/or the suspension mounting points you are still running sub optimal geometry.