OZCorolla_x
Swiftly
- :
- 2009 MAZDA2 NEO 1.5lt Auto 5Door JMODE10Y1901426XXX
Had been looking for a MAZDA 2 DE 1_5lt MZR ZY-VE Engine Disassembly Video
Found this one for a MAZDA 2 DE 1.3lt ZJ-VE
youtube.com/watch?v=ihZ3cNHjOl0
Successful Mazda 1.3 MZR engine (ZJ-VE). Why aren't all motors so reliable? Subtitles!
Jan 23, 2021
& its video/picture quality is good.
...Republic of Belarus so subtitles & the "Transcript English Auto generated text" is not perfect...
If you have the MAZDA 2 DE 1_5lt MZR ZY-VE Engine Workshop Manual, it is VERY Useful
Start watching at:
@1:06 1.3lt MZR (ZJ-VE) - discusses rough idle
@3:27 Engine Disassembly Commences
#############
Made a few Notes that should help:
@3:27 1.3lt MZR (ZJ-VE) Engine Disassembly Commences
- Super-locksmith Nikolai will help us quickly scatter this motor….
The intensity on the face @3:32 is amusing
@3:44 Drive By Wire Electronic Throttle Body Unbolted
@3:45 Throttle Body Silicon Gasket?
@3:48 Drive By Wire Electronic Throttle Body in DISPLAY TRAY
@3:53 The Throttle Body has Engine Coolant pass through.
NOTED: You don’t need to remove the Throttle Body from the Car to Clean the PCV Oil Vapour Residue Gunk From the Throttle Body Internals as part of trying to improve the Engine Idle Stability/engine shaking problem. Just unbolt it & leave the coolant lines attached, & position it so you can clean both sides & the throttle plate.
@4:02 Unbolting the Fuel Rail
@4:05 Fuel Rail & Injectors Out/Removed
@4:09 Fuel Rail in DISPLAY TRAY
@4:10 Close up of Fuel Rail & Injectors Tip Rubber Seals that you replace as part of trying to improve/rectify Idle Stability/idle Wander & since you have to take the Fuel Rail & Injectors out to replace the Inlet Manifold Gaskets you just replace them while they are out.
@4:16 Inlet Manifold Unbolt
@4:24 Inlet Manifold Removal
@4:25 looks like the Inlet Runner Vanes are internal to the Runner makes removal easy
@4:28 Intake Manifold on the DISPLAY TRAY - In the Intake Manifold of the MAZDA 2 ZJ Engine there are turbulence system (VTCS) Dampers,
@4:37 on the 1.5lt ZY-VE there is also a mechanism for changing the length of the intake manifold
@4:39 The Turbulence Dampers are driven by an electric motor & almost never require attention - Moves the Vanes back & Forth
@4:41 The Plastic Inlet Manifold to Cylinder Head Silicon Gaskets are visible & look distorted probably lost elasticity ie replace them
@4:45 It should be noted that Longitudinal Play does not occur (its a metal rod) BUT Axial Play of dampers may occur & this will cause the intake manifold to Click or Tap when Idling.
@4:51 Close up of The Plastic Inlet Manifold to Cylinder Head "Silicon Gasket"
@4:56 This malfunction can be eliminated by placing washers under the damper axle gear on the motor side
@5:02 The Mazda 1.3lt MZR engine is equipped with an EGR Valve. (On the rear LHS Top of the Engine 2 bolts to remove it)
It is an electronic valve with a stepper motor. This is structurally reliable but it has no feedback to the ECU.
If the EGR valve stem wedges in the slightly open position the ECU will not see it in any way & the motor can receive exhaust gases immediately after starting. Best to use a Low NOACK Oil.
@5:22 From here, you get problems with idling, low power may appear & the engine may simply not start. Therefore it is worthwhile to clean this valve every few years and at the same time check the conditions of the stepper motor windings.
@5:38 Resistance between the centre and adjacent outer pins should be 20 to 24 Ohms
The EGR Valve has Engine Coolant through it to help stop Oil Evaporating to form VARNISH & gumming up the EGR Valve (best to use a Low NOACK Oil) & also to stop hot exhaust gases damaging the electric stepper motor windings. The Coolant Change Bleed Nipple is attached to the Engine EGR Valve coolant inlet tube
@5:45 Remove Coil on Plug Packs
@5:49 The Mazda 2 ZJ engine is sensitive to the condition of the spark plugs.
@5:54 Due to wear of the electrode, the engine starts poorly, idles unstably & consumes more fuel
@6:02 Coil on Plugs in Display Tray. The Ignition Coils, however serve very well.
@6:05 Plastic Thermostat Housing Removal
@6:10 Cam Cover Unbolting
@ 5:15 Cam Cover Removal shows the Perimeter Gasket, the Spark Plug Tube seals are integrated as part of the Perimeter Gasket. Underside of Cam Cover has no Varnish, looks very clean
@6:20 The life of the Cam Cover Gasket is very decent - this engine does not annoy with oil leaks from this seal.
@6:30 When removing the valve cover to check or adjust the thermal clearance of the valves, replace the Gasket, the old one will have lost some of its elasticity
@6:41 Timing Chain & Cams look clean. Single SVVT on the Intake Cam
The Valve Actuator (Cam Shaft) has poppet tappets (Buckets) without hydraulic compensators so the thermal clearances need to be checked regularly.
@6:49 The MAZDA instructions state that thermal clearances should be checked for noise every 45,000km.
@6:57 If the MAZDA ZJ engine clinks/rattles suspiciously then valve thermal clearances should be measured more closely.
@7:05 In Practice the Motor runs to 200,000km (or more) without problems, without needing to adjust the valve clearances.
@7:12 There have not yet been any cases of exhaust valve burnout due to the increased clearance
@7:17 Adjusting the Thermal Clearances in this engine is both inconvenient & labour intensive you need to swap out the Buckets that Push directly on the Valves Stems
@7:21 There are 35 sizes of Bucket Pushers according to theri thickness.
@7:31 The nominal clearances are 0.3mm +/1 0.03mm each for the intake & exhaust Valves
@7:39 MAZDA Engines can suffer from failure of the Knock Sensor located in behind the plastic intake manifold, just above the PCV Valve Baffle enclosure.
Its malfunction is identified by an ECU OBDII MIL Error Code.
@7:49 A good knock sensor should have a resistance of about 560kOhms +/- 30kOhms
@7:54 Removes the Crank Pulley Bolt & then the Timing Chain Cover Bolts
@8:06 Water Pump Off
@8:16 Removes the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve
@8:17 Timing Chain Cover Being Removed
@8:20 the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve “Oil Screen Filter” that is accessed by removing the Accessories Belt Idler Pulley
The Engine LOOKS VERY CLEAN INSIDE
Top of Timing Chain Cover above the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve Hole the “3 Small Holes Oil Passages Gasket Seal” looks deteriorated
@8:22 Timing Chan Cover Crank Pass Through Main Oil Seal
@8:27 Mazda 2 has 5 Petrol Engines, two motors of 1.3 & 1.5lt are of Japanese origin & are equipped with a timing chain drive.
The Other gasoline engines are Ford units that have a timing belt drive with a toothed belt.
@8:32 Timing Chain Polymer Guide that the Timing Chain Tensioner pushes onto.
& the ORing that seals the Oil Pass through from the Oil Pump via the Timing Chain Cover into the Block Oil Gallery
@8:33 Timing Chain Tensioner with installation hook latch visible pushing on the Timing Chain Polymer Guide. PROBLEM is the two bolts to remove the Timing Chain Tensioner are inside the Timing Chain Cover. So you need to remove the Small Inset Cover/Hatch to access it if you don’t want to take the Timing Chain Cover Off
@8:33 Oil Pump housing bolts
@8:37 The timing chain on the 1.3lt ZJ Engine is the same as on the 1.6lt Z6 engine.
This is a Morse Plate Chain. It serves perfectly on MAZDA engines, it is unlikely to fail. Expect 250,000 to 300,000km life.
@8:52 Replacing the timing chain on this motor does not require any special tools or clamps.
@9:00 Replacement performed when the piston of the first cylinder is set to top dead centre, all the necessary marks are present on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys
@9:07 end on shot of the SVVT Intaake CAM Gear, 4 STAR Torquex Bolts, to open the SVVT Gear
@9:10 On this engine the Timing Drive is in excellent condition
@9:14 The Chain is tensioned & the Tensioner is extended to a minimum
If we talk about the condition of the camshafts, everything is like new
@9:22 You have a question: Why are we disassembling this Motor? Because this motor is not in demand in Republic of Belarus/Russia. MAZDA Cars in our countries mainly drive with Ford Engines (?implies given comments above @8:27 the engines in Republic of Belarus/Russia have Timing Belts).
See what wonderful motors come to us from Europe
=>> Implies car was serviced regularly with FULL Synthetic High Quality Oil?
@9:36 The Intake camshaft phase regulator of the MAZDA ZJ engine, as a rule, lasts a very long time without problems. Errors in the variable valve timing system or morning rumble after starting are rare for this engine
@9:50 holds up the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve..Suggesting that it is reliable & no evidence of Oil varnishing or other buildup or Electrical Coil Failure.
@9:57 Removes Timing Chain Tensioner
@9:59 Timing Chain Removed
Look Timing Chain sag is minimal here
@10:04 The Cylinder Head of this engine serves perfectly. There are no problems
@10:07 Unbolts then Removes the Oil Pump
@10:08 shows inside Oil Pump = Very Clean
@10:09 Starts Unbolting Cam Bearing Caps
@10:09 Starts removing Cam Bearing Caps
@10:23 Removes Intake Cam
@10:24 Removes Exhaust Cam
@10:25 Starts Unbolting the Head
@10:33 Head Lifted Off the Block
@ 10:35 Clear view of the Underside of the Head on the Display Table
Intake Valves Clean (its port injected)
Exhaust valve black
Water Jacket pass through the Block locations V’s Cylinder Wall Clearance looks Ok
This is some of the BEST Video I have seen of this during disassembly & something I was looking for
@10:40 There are no carbon deposits in the combustion chambers
“Spark Plug Tips” Look White?
The only thing is that there is a small deposit on the periphery of the piston.
@10:49 The Cylinder Block of this engine is Light-Alloy with chill fit Cast-iron liners, an open cooling jacket.
You can see the Valve Clearance recesses in the piston crowns & they look reasonably clean.
Water jacket is open
In terms of condition the surface of the cylinders bore...is as good as new.
@11:06. But there are carbon deposits on the periphery of the pistons.
?Well by tradition, we will tell you what kind of oil is suitable? Seems this is something they do
@11:10 Unbolting the Sump
@11:18 Sump Removed. Not a Gasket just silicon gasket maker (comes from the factory)
@11:21 Unbolt the PLASTIC Oil Pickup Strainer
@11:24 Unbolt the Crank Retainer Block Housing
@ 11:37 Crank Retainer Block Housing Removed
@ 11:39 Undoing Piston Conrod Bearing Caps
@11:44 Pushing the Pistons Out
@11:52 Lift the Crank Out
@11:53 DISPLAY TABLE Pistons, Crank & Crank Retainer Block Housing
@12:01 An Engine Oil Sales so pitch skip thru to 12:29
@12:29 BACK to the Engine disassembly discussion
The engine never ceases to delight us.
@12:32 & 12:33 The main bearings are without wear.
@12:34 to 12:36 The Connecting Rod Bearings are also without wear
@12:37 to 12:42 The CrankShaft Bearing Surfaces look great.
@ 12:43 to 12:48 Three Piston Rings - 2 Compression Rings & 1 Oil Scraper Ring
What is very important, the Oil scraper Rings are clean
A little varnishing between the rings on the side of the pistons
A little combustion byproduct down the side of the Piston Head towards the first compression ring.
@12:49 But the only question that arises for us is where did this small soot on the head belt come from? (ie the combustion byproducts on the side of the Piston above the 1st Compression Ring
@12:52 The design of the pistons also pleases us, yes the Pistons have a T Shaped profile, BUT the Piston Skirts are slightly Longer.
?Should stop Piston Slap?
@13:05 Each Piston has six holes drilled to drain oil from behind the Scraper Rings & there are recesses under the oil scraper rings
@13:10 Mazda ZJ engine oil consumption is not inherent or common.
@13:13 to 13:24 However, Oil scraper rings can loose their mobility due to operation on poor-quality Oil. (Use low high quality Full Synthetic NOACK Oil <6%)
In this case the engine will consume more than a litre of oil per 1,000km. There are not many such cases.
@13:26 In this case, decarbonization hardly helps. We’ll have to remove the pistons & change the piston rings.
@13:32 to 13:38 Looking @ the Crank Block Big End Bearings & down the Cylinder Bore
Oil Feeder Pipes visible to Cylinder 2 & 3’s Crank Bearings
The Upper Crank Bearings are also in excellent condition
@13:41 to 13:43 There are oil nozzles in the cylinder block
@13:44 Disassembly is complete & today we have disassembled an exemplary reliable Japanese Motor.
########
########
Hope the above helps someone/is of interest.
Rob
Found this one for a MAZDA 2 DE 1.3lt ZJ-VE
youtube.com/watch?v=ihZ3cNHjOl0
Successful Mazda 1.3 MZR engine (ZJ-VE). Why aren't all motors so reliable? Subtitles!
Jan 23, 2021
& its video/picture quality is good.
...Republic of Belarus so subtitles & the "Transcript English Auto generated text" is not perfect...
If you have the MAZDA 2 DE 1_5lt MZR ZY-VE Engine Workshop Manual, it is VERY Useful
Start watching at:
@1:06 1.3lt MZR (ZJ-VE) - discusses rough idle
@3:27 Engine Disassembly Commences
#############
Made a few Notes that should help:
@3:27 1.3lt MZR (ZJ-VE) Engine Disassembly Commences
- Super-locksmith Nikolai will help us quickly scatter this motor….
The intensity on the face @3:32 is amusing
@3:44 Drive By Wire Electronic Throttle Body Unbolted
@3:45 Throttle Body Silicon Gasket?
@3:48 Drive By Wire Electronic Throttle Body in DISPLAY TRAY
@3:53 The Throttle Body has Engine Coolant pass through.
NOTED: You don’t need to remove the Throttle Body from the Car to Clean the PCV Oil Vapour Residue Gunk From the Throttle Body Internals as part of trying to improve the Engine Idle Stability/engine shaking problem. Just unbolt it & leave the coolant lines attached, & position it so you can clean both sides & the throttle plate.
@4:02 Unbolting the Fuel Rail
@4:05 Fuel Rail & Injectors Out/Removed
@4:09 Fuel Rail in DISPLAY TRAY
@4:10 Close up of Fuel Rail & Injectors Tip Rubber Seals that you replace as part of trying to improve/rectify Idle Stability/idle Wander & since you have to take the Fuel Rail & Injectors out to replace the Inlet Manifold Gaskets you just replace them while they are out.
@4:16 Inlet Manifold Unbolt
@4:24 Inlet Manifold Removal
@4:25 looks like the Inlet Runner Vanes are internal to the Runner makes removal easy
@4:28 Intake Manifold on the DISPLAY TRAY - In the Intake Manifold of the MAZDA 2 ZJ Engine there are turbulence system (VTCS) Dampers,
@4:37 on the 1.5lt ZY-VE there is also a mechanism for changing the length of the intake manifold
@4:39 The Turbulence Dampers are driven by an electric motor & almost never require attention - Moves the Vanes back & Forth
@4:41 The Plastic Inlet Manifold to Cylinder Head Silicon Gaskets are visible & look distorted probably lost elasticity ie replace them
@4:45 It should be noted that Longitudinal Play does not occur (its a metal rod) BUT Axial Play of dampers may occur & this will cause the intake manifold to Click or Tap when Idling.
@4:51 Close up of The Plastic Inlet Manifold to Cylinder Head "Silicon Gasket"
@4:56 This malfunction can be eliminated by placing washers under the damper axle gear on the motor side
@5:02 The Mazda 1.3lt MZR engine is equipped with an EGR Valve. (On the rear LHS Top of the Engine 2 bolts to remove it)
It is an electronic valve with a stepper motor. This is structurally reliable but it has no feedback to the ECU.
If the EGR valve stem wedges in the slightly open position the ECU will not see it in any way & the motor can receive exhaust gases immediately after starting. Best to use a Low NOACK Oil.
@5:22 From here, you get problems with idling, low power may appear & the engine may simply not start. Therefore it is worthwhile to clean this valve every few years and at the same time check the conditions of the stepper motor windings.
@5:38 Resistance between the centre and adjacent outer pins should be 20 to 24 Ohms
The EGR Valve has Engine Coolant through it to help stop Oil Evaporating to form VARNISH & gumming up the EGR Valve (best to use a Low NOACK Oil) & also to stop hot exhaust gases damaging the electric stepper motor windings. The Coolant Change Bleed Nipple is attached to the Engine EGR Valve coolant inlet tube
@5:45 Remove Coil on Plug Packs
@5:49 The Mazda 2 ZJ engine is sensitive to the condition of the spark plugs.
@5:54 Due to wear of the electrode, the engine starts poorly, idles unstably & consumes more fuel
@6:02 Coil on Plugs in Display Tray. The Ignition Coils, however serve very well.
@6:05 Plastic Thermostat Housing Removal
@6:10 Cam Cover Unbolting
@ 5:15 Cam Cover Removal shows the Perimeter Gasket, the Spark Plug Tube seals are integrated as part of the Perimeter Gasket. Underside of Cam Cover has no Varnish, looks very clean
@6:20 The life of the Cam Cover Gasket is very decent - this engine does not annoy with oil leaks from this seal.
@6:30 When removing the valve cover to check or adjust the thermal clearance of the valves, replace the Gasket, the old one will have lost some of its elasticity
@6:41 Timing Chain & Cams look clean. Single SVVT on the Intake Cam
The Valve Actuator (Cam Shaft) has poppet tappets (Buckets) without hydraulic compensators so the thermal clearances need to be checked regularly.
@6:49 The MAZDA instructions state that thermal clearances should be checked for noise every 45,000km.
@6:57 If the MAZDA ZJ engine clinks/rattles suspiciously then valve thermal clearances should be measured more closely.
@7:05 In Practice the Motor runs to 200,000km (or more) without problems, without needing to adjust the valve clearances.
@7:12 There have not yet been any cases of exhaust valve burnout due to the increased clearance
@7:17 Adjusting the Thermal Clearances in this engine is both inconvenient & labour intensive you need to swap out the Buckets that Push directly on the Valves Stems
@7:21 There are 35 sizes of Bucket Pushers according to theri thickness.
@7:31 The nominal clearances are 0.3mm +/1 0.03mm each for the intake & exhaust Valves
@7:39 MAZDA Engines can suffer from failure of the Knock Sensor located in behind the plastic intake manifold, just above the PCV Valve Baffle enclosure.
Its malfunction is identified by an ECU OBDII MIL Error Code.
@7:49 A good knock sensor should have a resistance of about 560kOhms +/- 30kOhms
@7:54 Removes the Crank Pulley Bolt & then the Timing Chain Cover Bolts
@8:06 Water Pump Off
@8:16 Removes the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve
@8:17 Timing Chain Cover Being Removed
@8:20 the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve “Oil Screen Filter” that is accessed by removing the Accessories Belt Idler Pulley
The Engine LOOKS VERY CLEAN INSIDE
Top of Timing Chain Cover above the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve Hole the “3 Small Holes Oil Passages Gasket Seal” looks deteriorated
@8:22 Timing Chan Cover Crank Pass Through Main Oil Seal
@8:27 Mazda 2 has 5 Petrol Engines, two motors of 1.3 & 1.5lt are of Japanese origin & are equipped with a timing chain drive.
The Other gasoline engines are Ford units that have a timing belt drive with a toothed belt.
@8:32 Timing Chain Polymer Guide that the Timing Chain Tensioner pushes onto.
& the ORing that seals the Oil Pass through from the Oil Pump via the Timing Chain Cover into the Block Oil Gallery
@8:33 Timing Chain Tensioner with installation hook latch visible pushing on the Timing Chain Polymer Guide. PROBLEM is the two bolts to remove the Timing Chain Tensioner are inside the Timing Chain Cover. So you need to remove the Small Inset Cover/Hatch to access it if you don’t want to take the Timing Chain Cover Off
@8:33 Oil Pump housing bolts
@8:37 The timing chain on the 1.3lt ZJ Engine is the same as on the 1.6lt Z6 engine.
This is a Morse Plate Chain. It serves perfectly on MAZDA engines, it is unlikely to fail. Expect 250,000 to 300,000km life.
@8:52 Replacing the timing chain on this motor does not require any special tools or clamps.
@9:00 Replacement performed when the piston of the first cylinder is set to top dead centre, all the necessary marks are present on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys
@9:07 end on shot of the SVVT Intaake CAM Gear, 4 STAR Torquex Bolts, to open the SVVT Gear
@9:10 On this engine the Timing Drive is in excellent condition
@9:14 The Chain is tensioned & the Tensioner is extended to a minimum
If we talk about the condition of the camshafts, everything is like new
@9:22 You have a question: Why are we disassembling this Motor? Because this motor is not in demand in Republic of Belarus/Russia. MAZDA Cars in our countries mainly drive with Ford Engines (?implies given comments above @8:27 the engines in Republic of Belarus/Russia have Timing Belts).
See what wonderful motors come to us from Europe
=>> Implies car was serviced regularly with FULL Synthetic High Quality Oil?
@9:36 The Intake camshaft phase regulator of the MAZDA ZJ engine, as a rule, lasts a very long time without problems. Errors in the variable valve timing system or morning rumble after starting are rare for this engine
@9:50 holds up the SVVT Oil Control Solenoid Valve..Suggesting that it is reliable & no evidence of Oil varnishing or other buildup or Electrical Coil Failure.
@9:57 Removes Timing Chain Tensioner
@9:59 Timing Chain Removed
Look Timing Chain sag is minimal here
@10:04 The Cylinder Head of this engine serves perfectly. There are no problems
@10:07 Unbolts then Removes the Oil Pump
@10:08 shows inside Oil Pump = Very Clean
@10:09 Starts Unbolting Cam Bearing Caps
@10:09 Starts removing Cam Bearing Caps
@10:23 Removes Intake Cam
@10:24 Removes Exhaust Cam
@10:25 Starts Unbolting the Head
@10:33 Head Lifted Off the Block
@ 10:35 Clear view of the Underside of the Head on the Display Table
Intake Valves Clean (its port injected)
Exhaust valve black
Water Jacket pass through the Block locations V’s Cylinder Wall Clearance looks Ok
This is some of the BEST Video I have seen of this during disassembly & something I was looking for
@10:40 There are no carbon deposits in the combustion chambers
“Spark Plug Tips” Look White?
The only thing is that there is a small deposit on the periphery of the piston.
@10:49 The Cylinder Block of this engine is Light-Alloy with chill fit Cast-iron liners, an open cooling jacket.
You can see the Valve Clearance recesses in the piston crowns & they look reasonably clean.
Water jacket is open
In terms of condition the surface of the cylinders bore...is as good as new.
@11:06. But there are carbon deposits on the periphery of the pistons.
?Well by tradition, we will tell you what kind of oil is suitable? Seems this is something they do
@11:10 Unbolting the Sump
@11:18 Sump Removed. Not a Gasket just silicon gasket maker (comes from the factory)
@11:21 Unbolt the PLASTIC Oil Pickup Strainer
@11:24 Unbolt the Crank Retainer Block Housing
@ 11:37 Crank Retainer Block Housing Removed
@ 11:39 Undoing Piston Conrod Bearing Caps
@11:44 Pushing the Pistons Out
@11:52 Lift the Crank Out
@11:53 DISPLAY TABLE Pistons, Crank & Crank Retainer Block Housing
@12:01 An Engine Oil Sales so pitch skip thru to 12:29
@12:29 BACK to the Engine disassembly discussion
The engine never ceases to delight us.
@12:32 & 12:33 The main bearings are without wear.
@12:34 to 12:36 The Connecting Rod Bearings are also without wear
@12:37 to 12:42 The CrankShaft Bearing Surfaces look great.
@ 12:43 to 12:48 Three Piston Rings - 2 Compression Rings & 1 Oil Scraper Ring
What is very important, the Oil scraper Rings are clean
A little varnishing between the rings on the side of the pistons
A little combustion byproduct down the side of the Piston Head towards the first compression ring.
@12:49 But the only question that arises for us is where did this small soot on the head belt come from? (ie the combustion byproducts on the side of the Piston above the 1st Compression Ring
@12:52 The design of the pistons also pleases us, yes the Pistons have a T Shaped profile, BUT the Piston Skirts are slightly Longer.
?Should stop Piston Slap?
@13:05 Each Piston has six holes drilled to drain oil from behind the Scraper Rings & there are recesses under the oil scraper rings
@13:10 Mazda ZJ engine oil consumption is not inherent or common.
@13:13 to 13:24 However, Oil scraper rings can loose their mobility due to operation on poor-quality Oil. (Use low high quality Full Synthetic NOACK Oil <6%)
In this case the engine will consume more than a litre of oil per 1,000km. There are not many such cases.
@13:26 In this case, decarbonization hardly helps. We’ll have to remove the pistons & change the piston rings.
@13:32 to 13:38 Looking @ the Crank Block Big End Bearings & down the Cylinder Bore
Oil Feeder Pipes visible to Cylinder 2 & 3’s Crank Bearings
The Upper Crank Bearings are also in excellent condition
@13:41 to 13:43 There are oil nozzles in the cylinder block
@13:44 Disassembly is complete & today we have disassembled an exemplary reliable Japanese Motor.
########
########
Hope the above helps someone/is of interest.
Rob
Last edited:
