Max power with stock MSP tranny

aceaction

Member
:
2014 Mazda 2 Sport True Red
Hey guys, I got my msp at the end of the summer and I love the car, but I would like to get some more power (shooting for 5.5s 0-60) nothing crazy just to keep up with some of my friends. I am still kind of new to the mechanics of cars so I was wondering what I could do to achieve this without spending too much money (I am still a student). I also don't mind spending a little more to make sure the car will be able to handle it. The last thing I want is a broken car, but I would like a little more power. I was talking to someone and they said that just upgrading the clutch would be good enough for a little more power. Anybody have any experience with this?

P.S. The guy before me kept almost everything stock, only changed the intercooler and the suspension. He also did replace the LSD with the welded version which I have heard is a concern.
 
welcome to the forum, and to answer your question, pretty much if you dont want a broken car a lot of people would suggest building you block and going forged. itll pay off in the long run as opposed to replacing engines every time you blow one up by raising the boost. but to be as safe as possible first things first

-boost gauge
-wideband
-ssafc, unichip, etc.
-fmic
-full exhuast

and just make sure all your vac lines are silicone, and that your wastgate is in good shape especially if its still stock one.
and having a welded LSD is helpful but doesnt mean itll take all the abuse you can throw at it. some people have had good experiences others not so much. but anything is better than a stock LSD.
 
I already do have a boost gauge and I know the wastegate actuator was replaced before I got the car. What do you think the total cost would be? Just like a ball park and I appreciate the help very much.
 
welcome to the forum, and to answer your question, pretty much if you dont want a broken car a lot of people would suggest building you block and going forged. itll pay off in the long run as opposed to replacing engines every time you blow one up by raising the boost. but to be as safe as possible first things first

-boost gauge
-wideband
-ssafc, unichip, etc.
-fmic
-full exhuast

and just make sure all your vac lines are silicone, and that your wastgate is in good shape especially if its still stock one.
and having a welded LSD is helpful but doesnt mean itll take all the abuse you can throw at it. some people have had good experiences others not so much. but anything is better than a stock LSD.

^^^ Items 1-3. Boost gauge, wideband, tuning. After that my list would vary a little. I would definitely put a J&S safeguard on your list. What intercooler do you have now? As for exhaust; most recommend it but I'm making good power on the stock exhaust.

I'll have to look @ torque to get my 0-60. Right now I'm around 220whp with bolt ons.

What is your budget?
 
The transmission question is not a simple number.

people have been toying with 275 - 300, for sure the closer to 300 you get, the shorter 3rd gear will last.


if you like, I will say the same I say to everyone, go to www.mp5t.com and look at the photo journal. I have put a lot of time into documenting.
 
I wouldn't really be racing 0-60 probably just pulls on the highway and I definitely won't beat on the car. I'm not sure about the intercooler I will try and find out soon. As for budget I'd like to keep it below $1500 at least for this year. So I'm really just looking for the best way to get more power without breaking the bank. I will keep adding more in the future but I have college coming up so I can't spend too much. Even if I could only get the prep things done this year that would be fine. Also, I have noticed that 3rd gear isn't great (drops out on occasion but that hasn't happened in at least a month), and there almost feels like there is a dead zone in the gear box. When i'm in neutral or in gear I can kind of move the shift knob a little bit without anything actually moving. I'm guessing that would be something to be fixed before I do anything else.
 
So if it is popping out of third now, that is a warning sign that the syncros are having issue.
 
In my experience, there is no "Cheap Fix"

if it is doing that now, the last thing you want to do is Crank Up The Boost before planning some maintenence on the transmission.
 
I didn't think there was a cheap fix just wondering if you had any idea from experience or friends or anything. I would like to know if I will be spending my entire budget on the transmission because I have gotten the feeling that I will need to.
 
I believe that if it is doing that rarely and only under load, that if you continue to drive it but be aware that it is not perfect, you can focus on the other parts of the build and plan to address the transmission in a year.

The more boost you add and the harder you are on the transmission, the quicker it will fail.

I bought my car new and was running 16 PSI for 7 or 8 years until it slipped 3rd gear once.. Then the next month, I missed a shift and it was DONE.
 
BEST ADVICE.....if you're a student on a BUDGET,no matter what anyone says leave your car AS IS.change your oil every 2500-3000 miles and your tranny fluid about every 15,000.....maybe suspension and exaust if you're feeling spendy.....there is NO CHEAP WAY TO MOD THIS CAR!
 
BEST ADVICE.....if you're a student on a BUDGET,no matter what anyone says leave your car AS IS.change your oil every 2500-3000 miles and your tranny fluid about every 15,000.....maybe suspension and exaust if you're feeling spendy.....there is NO CHEAP WAY TO MOD THIS CAR!

^^^^Agreed, simple bolt-ons would make it a little fun, but no point in modding if your car is having tranny problems already. i literally babied and still baby my MSP while my engine and spare tranny get done being built
 
it depends.
i killed 3 transmissions making barely 200HP
i kileld 1 transmisison making 240
and i've seen people doing 250 and 300 and 350 until they blow

i have also seen people blowinmg up motors at stock boost and blowing up motors at 12PSI after many years of running them(me)

so, an answer?

this would be my answer.
the transmission on this car is very unreliable.
it helps to slip or ride the clutch between shifts, never launch the car hard...always slip the clutch....
 
oh and u have a MSP...so...treat that tranny like gold....it has a bad LSD that will break if you think too hard
 
I probably should wait till I get out of school and have another car to start doing anything. The guy before me already did the suspension so handling isn't an issue, just the lack of power. Maybe I will do an exhaust next year because I am doing the audio right now.
 
As brian and others have pointed out; there is no set number on what power or more specifically, torque, the stock unit can take...the bigger variable is how you drive it...Any of our girlfriends could scatter a stock 5 speed with 100whp if she can't drive...yet some users have had 300+whp on bone stock gear boxes and they seem to be fine...

your popping out of gear problem is related to an internal shift fork...common causes of a fork getting shaved too much is resting your hand on the shifter while driving normally...and i'm not positive, but i believe the G series gear boxes share a fork for 3rd and 5th gear (could be wrong on that, its been a while, but i had this happen on a previous Mazda)...as mentioned, don't panic...there is little danger of anything in there shattering at this point, and the fork itself is actually pretty inexpensive...its just getting to it...that sucks...

But the lists so far seem fine...The biggest problem these cars have in stock form is the computers...horrific tune that goes from dangerously lean to pig rich in less than 500 rpm...and the worst part is that there is no quick, inexpensive, or easy way to handle that...some guys have good luck with piggybacks, some guys go full standalone and definitely don't worry about it...but spent a lot of money...

The reality of these cars is that there is a very small window for 'intermediate' type of tuning...you either do very mild stuff, and make a little more power...or have to replace a whole bunch of stuff...and then be ready for serious output...the cost to bump 40 or 50 hp is almost the same as 70+, so its sort of pointless to fall into that category...
 
Back