MAP clamp is a go !!!

tru-boost

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2007 sunlight silver speed3
well, i finally got my ebay special MAP clamp....
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

the guy always seems to have them listed, so if anyone wants one, i they should still be available.
the install was not hard at all. the hardest part was removing the map sensor to trace the wires back to the ECU. you could just tap into them at the sensor, but there is very little room to do so. the MAP sensor has a built in temp sensor also, so it has 4 wires instead of the normal 3, which made it a little tricky too. the map clamp has 3 wires RED gets hooked to the 5V+ wire of the MAP sensor, which is a green/black wire. the BLACK wire hooks to the sensor ground which is a brown/green wire. (be careful here there are 2 that look the same. the one you need is at the very end of the sensor harness) and then the white wire of the clamp goes to the sensor signal wire. in this case it is a white/green wire. i then wanted to find these wires at the ECU harness. that was a little easier said than done ! there are about 3-5 wires that all have the same colors at the ECU. so to find the ones i needed i just used to voltmeter to check for continuity from my wire on the sensor up to the ECU harness. i didnt count the pins or anything like that, so if anyone else does this install, you will have to do it the same way i did.

the results....... well it works like a charm. i had to ghetto rig my volt meter into the cabin of my car to monitor the MAP voltage. i turned my MBC up to a point that i was gauranteed to get fuel cut and went for a drive. i found that that i would get fuel cut at 18psi which was exactly 4.13 volts from the map sensor. i then started taing voltage out using the MAP clamp. it didnt take much, a few turns and i was good. i now have it clamped at 4.03 volts and i get no fuel cut at 18-19psi !! i think by removing 0.1 volt the car only sees about 16.5 psi. which is really good. that lets the car see MOST of the boost that is actually there, and is only hiding a small portion.....just enough to stop fuel cut ! all in all, i would say this works great ! by far better than the ATP device which has to bleed out hard earned boost to work. my MAP clamp and MBC cost me $110 and it does EXACTLY what an out of the box standback does !! i will have dyno results soon. i go for my high pressure fuel pump soon !
 
Thats great news.
Btw according to cpe the map clamp has nothing to do with fuel or timing, you can lower is alot more and it wont affect anything. I find that very strange....just spreading what they told me. My boost clip is set at 10, and my timing and a/f ratios didnt change from when it was set to 13 or 15.
 
Wouldn't this eliminate any safety feature of the fuel cut?
I have been running an electronic map clamp like this for about a year (txs/fcd which is a somewhat more advanced unit) and have out grown it - too much power and not enough fuel. My guess is that you are simply at the limit of the map, and any additional increase in power (read tbe) would bring back fuel cut again.
Don't get me wrong, I think this, combined with a modest boost increase and a few bolt ons, is a great and inexpensive way to get some gains over stock. My car ran sweet with a little fuel tuning, a modest boost increase and the TXS fuel cut defender. Once I added the tmic I was tuned for 48whp over stock and developing as much as a 60whp increase in some parts of the curve. Torque was like 330ft/lb. Add about 30 or so whp for you fwd guys. Now that i have added a reworked stock turbo, tbe and exhaust manifold my car FREAKINg HATES ME!!! lol
Good luck with all this and thanks for the find.
 
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glad to here it worked out. I was sitting in front of the computer for a while after talking to you going between wiring diagrams trying to find which wires were which for you.
 
this is what i get from my research on the MAP on this car. at WOT the car does not even look at the MAP sensor, but under light throttle it does. so is under light throttle boost conditions you lie too much to the ECU about the boost, it will effect your WOT program that the ECU follows. i do think 10 psi is too low. i would say anything 14 and above is good. because from what i have seen, you can let the ECU see all the way up to just over 17psi without cut. with that being said there should be no reason to clamp it very low.
thanks to the guys at PG for the phone support, and to my buddy Eric who helped with the install and held the volt meter during my many WOT street runs !!

CHERRYSPEED ...... i also dont feel this is the best thing for reliability as my car is now. the fuel system just cant handle it for too long. that is why i am getting my high pressure fuel pump next....VERY soon !! if my results look like what laloosh has seen, my A/F should be just fine then.
 
A how-to with pictures would be the best. Nice write up. Let us know how it works.

Also, do you know your A/F ratio's after the map clamp was installed?
 
A how-to with pictures would be the best. Nice write up. Let us know how it works.

Also, do you know your A/F ratio's after the map clamp was installed?

yeah i know..... my camera wasnt charged and i didnt want to wait so, sorry.
with the clamp installed, if you run stock boost your A/F will not change. the clamp wont change A/F, adding boost will. so my 18psi is probably pretty lean. i was at about 11:1 on 15 psi at my last dyno. my guess is that i am on the high side of the 12's as it is now. that is why i am getting the fuel pump from PG !
 
So I am new to the whole factory turbo electronics. In the past I have been just boosting cars and going stand alone because I don't like hacks.

I understand the principal of the MAP clamp, but it seems like all that box you got on ebay is a potentiometer ($5 or less at radioshack).

If all you are trying to accomplish is to keep the voltage level from crossing 4.1, just get a 4.1v ZENER diode which are a few pennies. Just place it inline on the map sensor. If ou wanted to be slick, you could even place a little switch to bypass it to give the stock readings back.
 
So you got your mapclamp from ebay? I've been wondering where to find one as I will be getting the Profec Bspec II REAL soon................don't suppose there is a MS3 specific how to for the Greddy EBC install? It would save me a little headache :)
 
Profec B s2 isn't that complicated of an install. Just pay special attention to which ports on the solenoid to use since pretty much all of us are using the integral WG.
 
So you got your mapclamp from ebay? I've been wondering where to find one as I will be getting the Profec Bspec II REAL soon................don't suppose there is a MS3 specific how to for the Greddy EBC install? It would save me a little headache :)

I searched google and found a company called enginerunup.com that sells the map clamp. Search google and you will find many places to buy it.
 
Profec B s2 isn't that complicated of an install. Just pay special attention to which ports on the solenoid to use since pretty much all of us are using the integral WG.

It isnt a complicated install, just a tight squeeze to all the parts you need to get to...
 
well the one he has now is actually for the srt and has the tip wire on it also. I think he is in the works on one specifically for the ms3. Ill keep everyone posted. but ya its worth it. LOL
 
two diff style clamps. The simple 3 wire one is just a pot. and two diodes or resisters...i cant remember, I have built one tho. (about $6 in parts). The one PTP sells is much more complicated....has a printed circuit board and everything. More accurate and It is supposedly much better for the map sensor.....but ive never seen one die with the other style clamp.
 
it worked the best on the srts and thats why Im gonna use it. i have it sitting on my fridge waiting to be installed. maybe today. oh wait its christmas. LOL
 

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