Lowering Boost made more power

Cool... i come home from work.. and there are explanations galore.

And yes... unless you know what you are doing.. please dont go slapping resistors on. As we've seen our cars all differ and vary when it comes to A/F ratios, some of us run richer than others. Unless you have some type of dynometer and/or wideband sensor to monitor your car theres no point. I just wanted to bring to everyones attention that you can make better gains if you run a lower boost more efficiently.

It was to my understanding that the AFC didn't work on our cars or whatever... i never really followed on that (it's a weak tuning tool =P wait for an xede).
 
KaliCali said:
It was to my understanding that the AFC didn't work on our cars or whatever... i never really followed on that (it's a weak tuning tool =P wait for an xede).

yeah as far as i know a Apexi AFC will not work what i was refering to was air/fuel controllers in general like DSM's AFC or the MPI tuner. Also since i do not know much about xede is it realy worth the price (900sumthing for the evo one) over say a MPI tuner or DSM AFC (or the FTC he is coming out with) or even a lower end Haltech since these are all cheaper.
 
Not being biased, but yes it is worth it. If you check out Haltech's new interceptor computer, they're trying to copy the Xede (flattered). But check out our support section :

http://www.vishnutuning.com/xede_support_evo.htm

The xede provides 3 dimentions of tuning, more accurate MAF and MAP tuning, and better CAS replication.

Thats just the tuning aspect of it. If and when its ready for the MSP, it also has the ablility to control water/alcohol injection and soon to come an integrated wideband.

It's a cheaper alternative than stand-alones, plus you can keep all the facotry fail-safes. These are just a few of the features of the Xede, deff worth the money.
 
KaliCali said:
Not being biased, but yes it is worth it. If you check out Haltech's new interceptor computer, they're trying to copy the Xede (flattered). But check out our support section :

http://www.vishnutuning.com/xede_support_evo.htm

The xede provides 3 dimentions of tuning, more accurate MAF and MAP tuning, and better CAS replication.

Thats just the tuning aspect of it. If and when its ready for the MSP, it also has the ablility to control water/alcohol injection and soon to come an integrated wideband.

It's a cheaper alternative than stand-alones, plus you can keep all the facotry fail-safes. These are just a few of the features of the Xede, deff worth the money.

ok thats pretty good then and definatly seems worth the money plus it is cheaper than the AEM EMS but like you said it also keeps the stock ECU which is good for states that use obdII as the emisions test. BTw does vishnu have anything up their sleeve concerning upgrades for the MSP and MSM
 
Like I said... the Xede is on its way for the MSM right now... and MSP in the future. Impresive numbers for the MSM... at stock boost its made 30whp more on our dyno... so with re-mapping and maybe 2psi more boost.. we hope to make stock evo numbers! imagine.. a miata with that kinda power... I'll be expecting similar numbers with the MSP, both baselined stock about the same, 130ish.

As for parts.. we're not really a parts dealer, but any supporting mods will only raise the bar ~_^
 
be carefull with resistors and fcd's at part throttle accel the car actually runs VERY lean some of the time on the verge of dangerous
 
Thanks for the input guys. I'm just done with bolt ons now and am saving up for either a carputer or some sort fo EMS. Just wanting to know all my options :)
 
Thanks for the input guys. I'm just done with bolt ons now and am saving up for either a carputer or some sort of EMS. Just wanting to know all my options :)
 
More hp with the stock tires. My best ever was 13.15 on slicks. I ran 13.52 on stock tires with a 2.4 60' time. She's making some power now....
 
Damn, found this a little late but I stil wanted to comment on the resister thing.

First, it really shouldn't daily driving for very long since the ECU will be in closed loop and will adjust to compensate. When it's in closed loop, it watches the O2 and tries to keep the AFRs close to stoich for emissions, and a little richer under acceleration.

One thing that I have hear, though can't confirm for myself, is that the ECU takes those adjustments and applies them to the open loop maps via a global map multiplier. It may turn out that your resister mod will lose its effectiveness after a short while.

That Xede thing is pretty cool. I like the idea behind it, working with the stock ECU. It reminds me of Hondata K-Pro. I wish the link to the wiring diagram worked.
 
BlkZoomZoom said:
Not only is every car different, the atmospheric differences will change the outcome for everybody.

However if you ever wondered what a fcd is, it is a resistor hooked in line of the Maf signal with a boost pressure sensor to activate it.

So would a fpr setup like joe p's be based on a resistor setup? Not really sure and I am not trying to degrade joe's product if I am off base. This question is for anyone who knows, I don't think blkzoomzoom ever used one of these.
 
Joep's fpr set-up is to lose some of the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. But his fcd is exactly that. Almost all Fcds are.
 
Ok guys, very simple question, I can't seem to find it in the thread, how much resistnace did you use??????

I have a Joe P and I know that it bleeds some of the voltage to ground (parallel), but in this write up, you are suggesting that the resistor is inline (series). Please tell us, how much resistance did you use?
 
Fixing the A/F is the way to go! With DSM's chip @8 psi I gained 27hp and like 50 torque, our stock chip is designed terribly!
 
No one knows how much resistance? I suppose I could get a variable and turn it up until I hit the sweet spot, then post back to the forum... Let me get the ammeter out and figure out the current through the MAF. With that I can figure out how to drop the voltage...
 
Calculations

Here we go...

At idle, I have 2.00 V DC @ .002 Amps. The objective for me is to drop (Vd= voltage drop) .4 Vdc. I= Current, R= resistance in ohms. V=I*R [.4 = .002 * X) X= 200 ohms. That should do it.

I don't have a 200 right now, but if someone is bored, just to a quick before and after to see if I am right.

EDIT: Ooops I forgot to mention one thing... With 200 ohms resistance inline, as the MAF goes towards max, the resistor will start dropping more and more. By 5 volts, it should drop .8 Vdc to the ECU. This may be too much?
 
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