LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

[jrodhotrod]

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.

Here is the map that I am running on now (it's what Juan set-up for me).

 

[LinuxRacr]

Shawn, that's exactly what Steve Kan had to do. Have you been able to get your issues worked out?

 

[Chojin]

Hey Pat,

Yep. I had to adjust the Ign. Coolant and Air Correction maps (doh!).

-Shawn

Shawn, that's exactly what Steve Kan had to do. Have you been able to get your issues worked out?

 

[LinuxRacr]

So how is it running?

 

[glyph]

Linux: I have mine idling okay, but whenever I step on the gas, the negative pressure (vacuum) decreases (good), but it never gets to actual boost (bad) and seems to be trying to stall. Any ideas?

 

[Chojin]

glyph -

It's hard to get into positive pressure w/out putting any load on the engine. If you're stopped, in neutral, and revving the engine up, chances are that you will not get any positive pressure (or get very little). Now, if you're driving and can't get positive pressure, that's not good.

-Shawn

Linux: I have mine idling okay, but whenever I step on the gas, the negative pressure (vacuum) decreases (good), but it never gets to actual boost (bad) and seems to be trying to stall. Any ideas?

 

[glyph]

I am stopped. It's still on jacks in the garage. Does that mean I won't get any boost with out any load? By load you just mean resistance against the engine, right? not the measurable "load" referenced in the Haltech software manual?

I have a feeling it's running very rich right now, and I don't want to drive it until I get my wideband, which is on backorder. I discovered I can smoothly apply throttle and get the engine to rev, but any throttle pump whatsoever, and I seems to just quit. It doesn't seem to be very smooth ignition when I get the RPMs up as well.

 

[changedman]

you'll only see boost while in gear. there isnt enough exhaust on our cars in neutral (hardly ANY cars for that matter) to see boost in neutral

 

[glyph]

I just realized I'm hijacking your thread Linux, I'll start my own.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1637938#post1637938

 

[TurfBurn]

short answer (I lost my long one) either too rich or too lean from the rapid change is why you "have nothing" when you punch the throttle.. and you can't build boost at idle... so no worries there...

Get a PLX-M300 and cancel whatever you are ordering.. the PLX's are much faster than the AEM's and the like for response time and they only cost about 350 shipped.

 

[glyph]

short answer (I lost my long one) either too rich or too lean from the rapid change is why you "have nothing" when you punch the throttle.. and you can't build boost at idle... so no worries there...

Get a PLX-M300 and cancel whatever you are ordering.. the PLX's are much faster than the AEM's and the like for response time and they only cost about 350 shipped.

I'm getting the AEM from MAM for $350. Where do you get the PLX? I am also doing Google searches. I'll get it from somewhere else if I can get it now. I can't rely on the dates I keep getting from AEM.

I take it you have used both? Is there any data on their response time?

Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Saban]

Buy this product from PLX...its there newest wideband thingy (headbang)

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98383

 

[TurfBurn]

Yeah I've used the UEGO and the PLX-M300. I have an M300 in my car... you can get them direct from the manufacturer at www.plxdevices.com I don't believe there is published data, but I can tell you from experience that the M300 updates much quicker. The AEM appears much more stable and gives you a little more of a sense of "smoothness" and the M300 seems twitchy... but that's just the nature of more updates and more digits. That's a very good price for the AEM...

 

[glyph]

I looked at the R500, and the knock sensor is interesting, but I already have an EGT gauge. What sold me on the M300 is the data input I can put into the Haltech, and do the data logging. I ordered the m300 from streetrays.com for $313 shipped.

 

[TurfBurn]

Glad it worked out for you . I've been happy with it... and I have to say it is at least entertaining that it will put up the messages "air" "lean" and "rich" (instead of the AEM "Err") when you go outside the limits (it reads fro 10:1 to 19:1) I do joke around and wonder if you can go rich enough that it will finally give the message "gas"

 

[LinuxRacr]

Update

Well, I moved the vac/boost source of the MAP sensor from the nipple on the manifold (where cruise control is usually hooked up to) to the Brake Boost signal source, and my car seems to be running somewhat better. I also found out why my damn car squeeks in when I start it up... The drive belt has been too loose. I looked down at the alternator bracket, and the adjustment screw has been missing probably for some time! (eek2) I picked up another one from the dealership for $3.25 today. I will install it later, and kill my belt sqeeks for good.

I still need to hook the J&S back up to my ignition.

 

[glyph]

i had a similar issue where my screw had backed all the way out, but hadn't fallen off yet. I wonder if I should move my MAP. I have it hooked up to that line with my cruise control. Do you have the vacuum source from Beau?

Also, please describe "better": smoother? response?


The M300 sounds like a better buy overall just because of the data logging.

 

[glyph]

I made some progress with my tuning, it's going into my haltech log. Beau told me to take the MAF out since i have a MAP sensor. Oops. I did that and that was half my problem. The other half was a little bit of tuning. No more posting about my issues in here. Thanks for letting me threadjack for a bit, linux.

 

[LinuxRacr]

What did you do with your MAF? DId you leave it connected? I plan to take mine off too soon. My car pulls smoother and harder now that I am sourcing from the Brake Boost line. I notice I am a little leaner now... I want 11.7 a/f ratio at most. It is hiting perfect 12.0 now, and falling off to the mid 11's.

 

[TurfBurn]

That's a little too rich linux.. you can generate pre-ignition running that rich... you'll probably want to narrow in more toward 12.0 holding a steady 11.8-12.1 is a good range and you won't wash your cylinder walls or risk as much pre-ignition. (from my understanding cylinder wash and pre-ignition start becoming issues in the mid 10's.... so I try to stay well away from them... I tune to around 12.2)