Lightened crank pulley == CEL?

It may have been loose though....But I would think you would get a "Jingling" noise or vibration if it was loose.
 
The only way they would shear off like that was if the black timing plate created some time of friction between itself and the pulley. But like you said that would not happen or should happen. Do you have a pic of the timing plate? I'm curious to see if there is any damage to that around the holes for the screws. Could give us a better idea of what happened.
 
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This is far out there, but is it possible if they have backed out enough and something else behind the plate came into contact with the screws and chopped each one in half as it rotated.
 
I don't have a pic of the timing plate, though I could take one. I've inspected it very closely, and there really isn't any evidence of damage around the holes or the teeth. I agree that it seems odd that the stamped steel plate could possible have enough inertia to shear the screws off, but I just don't see any evidence of damage anywhere else...

Now, I will mention that either before or after the incident (I really have no way of knowing) the timing plate did come into contact with the plastic timing belt cover on the front of the engine- as there were scraps on it. In fact, it actually scrapped a small hole in one area. This probably means that the screws backed out just enough for the plate to become "wobbly" as it spins, and that wobbling was probably enough to cause the screws to shear off.

If you really want, I can post pics of the timing plate, but You really aren't going to see much from it. Let me know though...
 
Now, I will mention that either before or after the incident (I really have no way of knowing) the timing plate did come into contact with the plastic timing belt cover on the front of the engine- as there were scraps on it. In fact, it actually scrapped a small hole in one area. This probably means that the screws backed out just enough for the plate to become "wobbly" as it spins, and that wobbling was probably enough to cause the screws to shear off.

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I think thats what will do it. If they back out just enough to make the plate wobble that could cause enough friction to shear off the screws. Espcially now that you said the timing cover was scraped and damaged, it had to have backed off a little.
 
I think thats what will do it. If they back out just enough to make the plate wobble that could cause enough friction to shear off the screws. Espcially now that you said the timing cover was scraped and damaged, it had to have backed off a little.

Yeah, I agree. Hey man, thanks for pointing out this known issue- I wouldn't have even thought to look at that 79page Group Buy thread for this issue. I'm most frustrated that the seller didn't mention the problem, but I guess that's life...
 
Did you by any chance check to see how tight the screws were b4 this all happened? Also did the other seller use the crank pulley?
 
No problem, your more then welcome. I got the same pulley, so I'm concerned whenever I see this happen. But I have confidence that with the new screws plus loctite that will not happen again.
 
Unfortunately, I didn't even think to check the tightness of the screws (and that is my fault- I should have known better). I do know that the seller did not use it.
 
I just checked the tightness on the new improved allen screw pulley. I completely snapped the allen wrench trying to loosen/tighten the screw. I think it is in there for good.
 
Dies at idle? So the only way to keep the car alive is to keep the revs up? Was the car running perfect before the install or did you have idle issues from past? Also can you take a pic of the pulley to verify that the crank sensor gear is aligned correctly.
 
Just installed my pulley, now my car dies at idle!!!

yea check your crank angle sensor to make sure its hooked on correctly

second: does if that doesn't fix it and it is still having trouble idling then I guess I told you so just fits here....

edit: joel what motor do you have? dont you have the 1.8? is the pulley the same between them? I'll bet you the gearing on the teeth for the crank angle sensor are different between the two, but I cannot say for certain
 
I have a 1.8 but they are exactly the same..I will put pictures up in a few hours since I am at my Dads house and going back to my Moms in a few minutes.

Well previously my car would have a bad idle..constantly dropping and bouncing off 0 rpm. Now that I put this pulley on it has become more appearant of the stalling. Instead of bouncing back up the engine just gives up and dies. When I put it into neutral it doesnt die, but the rpms bounce up to like 2k rpm, then it falls back down.
 
It may not be the pulley then. It can just be a coincidence that something else has failed at the same time. It does happen. One day I had bad idle, changed the egr valve and the next day car overheated due to bad thermostat. How many miles on car? Any previous cel?
 
i got about 116,xxx miles and my only previous CELs are for the spark plug heater circuit wires.
 
Since you have just reduced the rotating mass on the engine pulley by about 50%, it makes sense that it isn't "bouncing back" from a low rpm. That's because there is less momentum there to get the crank back around. Sounds like you had this problem prior to the install, and the reduced weight on the pulley just amplified it...

By the way, given my fiasco a couple days ago, i can tell you for a fact that if the crank position gear is not in alignment properly, the car will not run. I highly doubt you will get sporadic revs if it's a sensor problem. In my case, the car wouldn't fire at all. I know dirty EGR valves generally cause poor idle. Have you checked that?
 
Does it have original 02 sensors, egr and iac? They could be malfunctioning. Also did you check for vac leaks? Make sure the crank sensor is plugged in and inspect the gap of the crank sensor to gear teeth. Gap should be .5-1.5mm.
 
Yeah I can see how the lighter mass amplified the issue. I havent cleaned the EGR specifically..I did a seafoam treatment through the brakebooster about 2 months ago. Does that make its way through the EGR too?

Does it have original 02 sensors, egr and iac? They could be malfunctioning. Also did you check for vac leaks? Make sure the crank sensor is plugged in and inspect the gap of the crank sensor to gear teeth. Gap should be .5-1.5mm.
The O2 sensors are new..bosh universal wired in ones..the rest is all stock to my knowledge. And the the gap with the crank sensor is very minimal..Id say .5mm is a good estimate as it looks like its almost touching.
 
Just drove 90 miles back home on the highway..everything seemed fine until I got into bumper to bumper traffic and saw the rpms dropping to 0 fast. Luckily it didnt stall on me on the freeway.
 
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