Lightened crank pulley == CEL?

wildo

Member
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Mazda Protege5
I just got done installing a lightened crank pulley (it is not underdrive) and after driving for about 2 mins, I got a flashing CEL. I've searched around and found that that typically indicates a mis-fire, but I certainly didn't hear or notice a mis-firing cylinder. Is there some way I can determine what the CEL code is (without driving to an auto parts store). From what I've found on this forum- it's bad to drive on a blinking CEL...

Thoughts? Thanks guys!


Oh- 2003 P5, 2.0L, manual tranny.
 
ay yahhhh...im subbing for this. Dont want to install my pulley and end up screwed.
 
hmmm... I wondered about that. They seemed to be the same size/spacing/diameter. If this problem has to do with the crank position sensor though, wouldn't the car run like crap? It seems to be running just fine
 
hmmm... I wondered about that. They seemed to be the same size/spacing/diameter. If this problem has to do with the crank position sensor though, wouldn't the car run like crap? It seems to be running just fine
yes! but if you reset the cel it will run fine for a while, i went through this last summer...
 
yes! but if you reset the cel it will run fine for a while, i went through this last summer...

Are you saying that you also got a flashing CEL after a UDP install, and did in fact determine it to be a crankshaft position sensor- but resetting the CEL causes it to run ok for a while?

I must be misunderstanding you because that doesn't really make sense to me... Sorry, but can you clarify? Thanks much!
 
Are you saying that you also got a flashing CEL after a UDP install, and did in fact determine it to be a crankshaft position sensor- but resetting the CEL causes it to run ok for a while?

I must be misunderstanding you because that doesn't really make sense to me... Sorry, but can you clarify? Thanks much!
i was referring to your comment about the crank position sensor, not the udp...i had a bad one and reset the cel and it got me home, but the next day it went off again and i had to replace the sensor
 
i was referring to your comment about the crank position sensor, not the udp...i had a bad one and reset the cel and it got me home, but the next day it went off again and i had to replace the sensor

Thanks for the clarification. I am pretty sure that this isn't the crank position sensor because it seems to be running fine. I guess I have not much choice than to just drive to the auto parts store for a scan.

Lucky for me, tomorrow (today, rather since it is 12:25 my time) is national ride your bike to work day, I just bought a new road bike, and the weather is supposed to be nice... At least I have a day to look into this...
 
My friend got that with a custom underdrive pulley. Car seemed to run fine (our local FSDEs don't throw CELs) but it was actually losing power because the ECU was compensating for the lack of crank position signal. Gained back 10 hp from swappin back to a stock pulley. In your case, if the teeth are right, you might want to check the sensor itself.
 
I drove it this morning out of neccessity for about 2 miles. Again, it seemed to perform just fine. I mean, I was taking it easy since I have no clue what is going on in there, but it still didn't seem to be missing, and seemed to have full power. I'm hoping to get to an auto parts store tonight for a scanning. I'll let you guys know once I get the codes...
 
I got scanned at autozone today. Only two codes:
P0140- HO2S 12 circuit condition (Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2
P0300- Cylinder misfire detection- Random cylinders


So the P0140 is easily explained since my second 02 sensor is wire-tied up behind the radiator (My header doesn't have a second bung- and I've been too cheap to have one welded in...)

The P0300 is not so easily explained- but at least it makes it relatively obvious what the problem is. Most likely it has to do with the crank shaft position sensor registering the crank pulley properly. If the sensor was actually bad, it's my opinion that the car simply wouldn't run right at all- so I'm ruling that out for now. Since the aftermarket pulley has a removable sensor cog, it could be that somebody turned it improperly. It could also be that the sensor cog is of the wrong diameter or even has improper spacing on all of the teeth.

I don't have much choice than to pull off the new pulley and compare it against the old one.

If I can't find a difference in the pulleys, I'm just going to reset the ECU and see if it comes back. I hate to go that route- but the car really isn't running bad at all! I think that if one (or more) of the cylinders was not firing properly- I'd certainly notice a lack of power... So, we shall see how it goes...

I'll let you guys know...
 
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You do know that your O2 sensor is heated right, and gets up to about 600*F on its own... Be careful where you have that thing tied up man. Getting a bung welded in costs abot $15 at a muffler shop.
 
As it were, I did not know that. It is safely tied up though, and sometime I will get a bung welded in. Muffler places around here want $50 to weld it in- a price I am simply not willing to pay.
 
Go to home depot and grab the nut to fit it, I believe it's 1/2" NPT then take it to a muffler shop, and say "drill hole, weld this" and they should for like $15.
 
Go to home depot and grab the nut to fit it, I believe it's 1/2" NPT then take it to a muffler shop, and say "drill hole, weld this" and they should for like $15.

HaHa, maybe in Canadian dollars. What $15 Canadian like $45 USD, kidding.

But about your cel, code means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly, it indicates a random or multiple misfire. One of the causes is a faulty camshaft position sensor.
 
So there were a number of things I wanted to check about the new pulley. The main thing I wanted to check is if the missing tooth on the sensor gear was in the proper position. As the crank turns, the absence of this one tooth causes no current to flow through the position sensor- and thus your ECU knows where the crank position is radially. If you haven't seen your crank pulley before, I am talking about the position of the missing tooth as seen on the stock pulley in this pic (note that the pulley is upside down in this pic):
100_0681.jpg






So the first thing that I checked was to make sure that the position gear was within a reasonable distance from the crank position sensor. In this photo, you can see that it is pretty close- but not touching. This is good...
100_0670.jpg







The next thing I wanted to check was that the missing tooth on the sensor gear is in the proper position relative to the keyway on the pulley itself. As you can see in this pic, when the keyway is straight up, the missing gear is at about 260 degrees:
100_0671.jpg


When I look at the stock pulley in the same position, you can see the missing tooth is also at about 260 degrees, so this is good:
100_0672.jpg








The next thing I wanted to check was that the sensor gear is of the proper diameter, and that the teeth are at the proper spacing. To accomplish this, I simply held the stock pulley up to the aftermarket one and noticed that two teeth were the same size. As such, I can already know that the number of teeth on both pulleys are the same, and because of that- I can know that they are also the same diameter. So this is also good...
100_0674.jpg







The last thing that I wanted to check is if the sensor gear is intersecting with the sensor across the same geometric plane as the stock pulley. What I mean by this is imagine if you put three washers between the engine and the pulley when you put the pulley on the engine. Obviously, the pulley would be sitting further up on the crank, and the sensor pulley wouldn't be crossing the same geometric plane as if the washers weren't there. If the washers weren't there, the pulley would be in a plane closer to the engine. So that was what I was checking for. This isn't so easy, because the stock pulley isn't on the car. So to determine this, I looked at the stock pulley to see where the wear line was where the crank shaft stopped inside the pulley. See this pic:
100_0677.jpg


Notice in the above pic, you can see a wear/grease line where the crank shaft stopped inside the pulley. You can see that it is about 3/32" shy of the surface of the pulley. Comparing that to the aftermarket one on the car shows that it is sitting in pretty much the same location. Not as accurate as my other tests, but I think it is probably good enough. So this is also good... Here's a pic of the shaft in the aftermarket pulley on the car:
100_0679.jpg








So with all of that said- I don't see any problem at all with the new pulley. I've quadruple checked to make sure I plugged back in all of the wiring harnesses that I may have unplugged. I really can't find any fault anywhere. So my next plan of attack is as such:
  1. Reset the ECU and watch for the flashing CEL to come back
  2. If the CEL comes back, I will replace the Crank Position Sensor

Other than that, I am out of ideas... (dunno) Thoughts, anyone?
 
An interesting discovery...

After I put the car back together from taking the above pics, I went to start it and it wouldn't start- just clicking. So I've got a dead battery.

So what could that mean in relation to a crank pulley installation? Perhaps the alternator is not spinning due to belt tension? I doubt it- belt is properly tensioned. Is the alternator bad? I doubt it because I wondered if that was the reason for the flashing CEL in the first place. When it was running last night, I pulled the positive battery cable and the car continued to run- telling me the alternator is putting out current. But why wouldn't the battery be charging? Perhaps I unhooked a cable from the alternator that I don't remember?? I really don't think this is the case- but that's all I can come up with. Well- I guess I will go crawl back under the car and look some more...

Bah!
 
Well, I definitely didn't unplug anything from the alternator. I'm totally at a loss now... Any suggestions guys?
 
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