Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
- Thread starter Lewis7789
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princess peach
Member
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- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
The things I do for you, even when you didn't put out for my b-day...
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
A little bit got done today, trying to sort out some wiring. Looks like I've got a lot more to snip, I forgot I can cut the emissions plugs, diagnostic and VAF plugs. But found one of the plugs to my disty is snipped. I'll hit the junkyard tomorrow and solder in a new one.
I did get the power steering lines buttoned up. 1/2" and 3/8" lines.
Looks a little hodge-podge but not as bad in person.
PS cooler.
Here's the hose to the rack and from the pump where I used the OEM hose with the built in reducer to 3/8" to bend around the motor then a 3/8" male/male barb coupler.
I'm going to see if I can find a Probe GT high pressure line from the junk yard and see if that will fit nicer since it will be shorter. I don't like the high pressure line having all the slack in it back there. Even though it bolts up and will work just fine, I want it to look cleaner. .
I did get the power steering lines buttoned up. 1/2" and 3/8" lines.
Looks a little hodge-podge but not as bad in person.
PS cooler.
Here's the hose to the rack and from the pump where I used the OEM hose with the built in reducer to 3/8" to bend around the motor then a 3/8" male/male barb coupler.
I'm going to see if I can find a Probe GT high pressure line from the junk yard and see if that will fit nicer since it will be shorter. I don't like the high pressure line having all the slack in it back there. Even though it bolts up and will work just fine, I want it to look cleaner. .
bikingpro5
Member
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- 03 Protege5
looks good so far, glad that cooler worked for you.
please add a grommet or something around the hose in this pic (im sure you have but just making sure) would hate to see it leak because of something simple.
please add a grommet or something around the hose in this pic (im sure you have but just making sure) would hate to see it leak because of something simple.
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- aggressive auto culture
lookin good! cant wait to see some vids!
Evan some real quick molding for the holes is to take rubber hose of w/e size, slice it on one side so you can slide it over the lip of the metal. Its flexible, cheap, and can be easy to replace if it wears through. I have done this for the hole for my CAI.
Peaches stopped by today to talk me through some of the wiring. Thanks again, buddy! I've got a lot of research to do still on the KL harness and sort things out. It's a little overwhelming right now but we can't really start on much until the ECU's have power so I'll tackle that first.
I'll stop by Summit and get some 2 AWG battery wire for the battery relocation. 20' should be plenty for the battery ground to the trunk chassis, positive to the engine bay and starter wire from the distribution block.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-1849/
Then 4 AWG for the alternator and to the OEM fuse block.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QCR-57-093/
I'll use a 150 amp circuit breaker 18" from the battery;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
A distribution block; (This is just an example, there are too many to choose from)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
After looking at quite a few battery reloaction diagrams on Google I think this set up will work for me.
Now for the extra stuff, I'm a ricer and would like a push button start and battery kill switch in place of the stereo. The battery kill switch isn't necessary (as of 10/01/2012) in SCCA or NASA rules. But it would be handy when working on the car to kill the power to the motor. And since the Protege doesn't use a chip in the key a push button start would work very easily and the ignition switch could double as my fuel pump switch since the P5 ECU fuel pump wire is grounded thus always being on when the key is in the ON position. And I just think they look cool.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Would this diagram be correct for the kill switch?
Of course I respect your guys' opinions and wisdom so please let me know if I should add or subtract things and if I've made mistakes. Thanks! I've been researching for about 4 hours. I'm going to bed. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
I'll stop by Summit and get some 2 AWG battery wire for the battery relocation. 20' should be plenty for the battery ground to the trunk chassis, positive to the engine bay and starter wire from the distribution block.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-1849/
Then 4 AWG for the alternator and to the OEM fuse block.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QCR-57-093/
I'll use a 150 amp circuit breaker 18" from the battery;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
A distribution block; (This is just an example, there are too many to choose from)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
After looking at quite a few battery reloaction diagrams on Google I think this set up will work for me.
Now for the extra stuff, I'm a ricer and would like a push button start and battery kill switch in place of the stereo. The battery kill switch isn't necessary (as of 10/01/2012) in SCCA or NASA rules. But it would be handy when working on the car to kill the power to the motor. And since the Protege doesn't use a chip in the key a push button start would work very easily and the ignition switch could double as my fuel pump switch since the P5 ECU fuel pump wire is grounded thus always being on when the key is in the ON position. And I just think they look cool.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Would this diagram be correct for the kill switch?
Of course I respect your guys' opinions and wisdom so please let me know if I should add or subtract things and if I've made mistakes. Thanks! I've been researching for about 4 hours. I'm going to bed. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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- aggressive auto culture
Looks good! I wish I did mine like that! truly proper.
I'd run a 150 A fuse or another circuit breaker between the alternator and the switch then run wires to the distribution block from the switch for the battery and alternator circuits. I think most kill switches have four posts for alternator/battery setups. Alternatively, you could always run the switch on the battery ground. I know NHRA doesn't allow this but I don't recall seeing anything in the NASA CCR about it. I was highly recommended to run the primary battery ground straight to the engine and then a chassis ground from the engine. If you went this route it wouldn't be hard to put a simple, two post, 150 A switch in-line with the engine ground. Since everything is grounded to the engine or chassis this would kill ALL circuits. Probably not a good idea if you have/plan on having active safety systems (e.g. fire supression) since they'll still need to work but I don't think we're at that stage of the game yet.
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Thanks for the info, Jon! It looks like most of the kill switches I found are only two post. But if I put the kill switch in line of the ground wire to the engine, that will kill everything like you said? Sorry, I'm not too good with wiring... Like the kill switch in location B?
Also, what do I do with the other end of the OEM fuse block? Does power just go to one side of the fuse or does it have to be completed? And my alternator is rated at 90 amps, should I just use a 100amp fuse there?
Forgive my crude drawings.
It looks like there are a thousand ways to skin this cat for a battery relocation kit.
Also, what do I do with the other end of the OEM fuse block? Does power just go to one side of the fuse or does it have to be completed? And my alternator is rated at 90 amps, should I just use a 100amp fuse there?
Forgive my crude drawings.
It looks like there are a thousand ways to skin this cat for a battery relocation kit.
Evan, I really can't remember how the OEM fuse box in the Proteges was wired. In my RX-7 the the fuse box in the engine bay is connected to both the alternator and the battery. So I have a 4 ga wire that runs from my power distribution post to the fuse box and a 100 A fuse. The other side of that fuse is connected to the alternator via another 4 ga wire. This way the fuse box receives power from the battery with the ignition set to "on" and power from the alternator when the engine's running. My alternator actually has two wires coming off it: a 4 ga to the engine bay fuse box and what I think is 8 ga that runs to the fuse box in the cabin. I think if you want to run the kill switch on the positive side it's best to find a 4-pot switch meant to be used with alternators and batteries. I think you need something like this:
Battery -> circuit breaker -> switch -> distribution box -> starter/fuse box
Alternator -> circuit breaker/fuse -> switch -> distribution box -> fuse box
I *think* your fuse box just needs to see power with the ignition "on." Since the alternator and battery are powering the distribution box, which is in turn powering the fuse box I'd think you'd only need one connection unless you have a situation like I do with the RX-7 (alternator powers two circuits). With the switch in-line with both the alternator and the battery it would disconnect the battery circuit with the car off thus preventing power to anything and both the battery and the alternator circuit when the car is running so the distribution box and main fuse box won't see power this killing power to everything.
I mentioned the switching the ground because it's much simply if you aren't running auxiliary systems that always need power. All of the car's circuits are ultimately grounded to the battery. All the chassis and engine grounds are transmitted to the battery negative through the battery negative -> chassis ground. Kill that and there's no place for the electrons to flow and all circuits are dead.
Hopefully I'm making some sense. This stuff isn't easy to explain online.
EDIT: This is the type of switch I had in mind: http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=L45782&Category_Code=BE. One day I'll probably be adding one to the cowl area underneath my windshield.
Battery -> circuit breaker -> switch -> distribution box -> starter/fuse box
Alternator -> circuit breaker/fuse -> switch -> distribution box -> fuse box
I *think* your fuse box just needs to see power with the ignition "on." Since the alternator and battery are powering the distribution box, which is in turn powering the fuse box I'd think you'd only need one connection unless you have a situation like I do with the RX-7 (alternator powers two circuits). With the switch in-line with both the alternator and the battery it would disconnect the battery circuit with the car off thus preventing power to anything and both the battery and the alternator circuit when the car is running so the distribution box and main fuse box won't see power this killing power to everything.
I mentioned the switching the ground because it's much simply if you aren't running auxiliary systems that always need power. All of the car's circuits are ultimately grounded to the battery. All the chassis and engine grounds are transmitted to the battery negative through the battery negative -> chassis ground. Kill that and there's no place for the electrons to flow and all circuits are dead.
Hopefully I'm making some sense. This stuff isn't easy to explain online.
EDIT: This is the type of switch I had in mind: http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=L45782&Category_Code=BE. One day I'll probably be adding one to the cowl area underneath my windshield.
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Thanks for the info once again, Jon. It is greatly appreciated. I'll take a look at the stock wiring tomorrow after work. I'm pretty sure the alt. goes to the other side of the OEM fuse block so that makes sense. And I've got a 4 terminal kill switch lined up now. http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=485 To go along with this engine start/ fuel pump switch. http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=473 I sent them an email asking for dimensions before I buy. But mak, this relocation process is about $375 after all the circuit breakers, fuses, cable, push button start, kill switch and battery mount are bought. So I just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff the first time.
roy obanion
Member
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- 02 p5, 95 miata
Nah, get rid of it and get a miata..
bikingpro5
Member
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- 03 Protege5
best part IMO of building things yourself and not just buying off the shelf or throwing money at people to build it. I personally spend way to much time learning and reading before i do anything with this car, maybe another reason people say I'm OCD when it comes to certain things.
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