Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

[JKPgt96]

I should have worded that differently..it made great power for only a 55 shot (picked up over 75 ft.lbs) over what it did n/a. On another dyno it actually made almost 240whp/270wtq, but I didn't record it. The powerband for the car on nitrous was amazing..I was making over 210whp from just atfter the hit (3700rpm) all the way to the limiter at 7200rpm.

What I guess I meant was I wish I had dyno'd the car after I put the cams, ported klg4 IM, and ZE heads on it, because it had to be making high 180-low 190's n/a (versus 171whp on that dyno). Who knows what it made on nitrous I only made a couple pulls on the jug after I put all of that one, but never got a chance to dyno it before the oil pump decided almost 8k rpm was not appreciated, lol.


..sorry OP, don't mean to jack the thread.

 

[Lewis7789]

The only form of thread jacking in here that pisses me off is when it's about Miata's. lol

I don't mind the chatting at all, guys. Especially if it's about John's PGT on N2O.

Oh, when you were talking about the wire tuck on your PGT, my Protege is laid out a little differently where we have the ECU behind the passengers kick plate and the harness comes in/out more on the passenger side. I think Milly's and Probes go through the middle, right? I don't plan on going out of my way to tuck everything but I figure while I'm redoing the wiring anyway I'll make everything as clean as possible.

 

[ucMP3]

LOL! What's up Steve? How's the Accord running? I still miss your MP3...

Yeah, I've got a Milly for a DD. I got it for $650 with a blown head gasket so i took out the KLDE out of the P5 and put it in there. I'm going to rebuild the P5 with a KLZE, MegaSquirt, racing seats/harnesses and roll bar and gut it.
Here's the Milly;
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/Lewis7789/milly2.jpg

And the P5 hibernating in the garage for the winter while parts are bought;
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/Lewis7789/Mazda P5/g2.jpg

Nice, looks good.

The Accord is running well. Need to do brakes and tune up once it warms up, but all is good. I do enjoy having heated seats now ... There are some upgrades over the MP3, lol.

I do wish I could have still had the MP3. I hate money & responsibility ******* up my true goals/intentions. But all in good time. Once i find a real job and graduate this year I can finally get back to modding. I just have to decide what the next project will be. I'm going to have to go rwd or awd on the next project tho...

So you are staying NA with the KLZE? Is that going down this spring?

 

[JKPgt96]

The only form of thread jacking in here that pisses me off is when it's about Miata's. lol

I don't mind the chatting at all, guys. Especially if it's about John's PGT on N2O.

Oh, when you were talking about the wire tuck on your PGT, my Protege is laid out a little differently where we have the ECU behind the passengers kick plate and the harness comes in/out more on the passenger side. I think Milly's and Probes go through the middle, right? I don't plan on going out of my way to tuck everything but I figure while I'm redoing the wiring anyway I'll make everything as clean as possible.

The Probe engine harness goes in from the passenger side, down low. That part in not the issue. The issue in a Probe is that the Fuse box and all of the wiring (which is immense) run down the driver side and so there is a TON of wiring that runs up to the fuse box causing a huge bundle of crap on the driver side. So by moving all of that to the other side and inside I can run the wires more discretely. I will put up pics when I get started on it here shortly and you will see what I mean.

 

[Joost27]

JK, since you are on this thread quite a bit and other Kl guys too. Have any of you experienced the "cam seal/plug" on the rear head by the timing cover popping out on its own? I had this happen yesterday, luckily I smelt the oil running down my motor and with the help of water getting splashed onto the exhaust and was able to investigate it and find that it had almost come all the way out.

 

[ajkulish]

i sendz you moneyz evan.

 

[JKPgt96]

JK, since you are on this thread quite a bit and other Kl guys too. Have any of you experienced the "cam seal/plug" on the rear head by the timing cover popping out on its own? I had this happen yesterday, luckily I smelt the oil running down my motor and with the help of water getting splashed onto the exhaust and was able to investigate it and find that it had almost come all the way out.

I always black RTV the plug into place..

 

[Joost27]

Gotcha, yeah I replaced the plug when it was ont he stand...almost 40k miles ago, I kind of set it and forgot it. I figured since the old one didnt have rtv on it not to use rtv, but I guess today I will clean the area and rtv the s*** out of it. Thanks. Luckily i only lost 3/4qt before noticing.

 

[JKPgt96]

Yeah..just put a little on the plug, then put it in, and rtv around the seam (the large OD of the plug) and head so it wont come out. Just don't glob it on and shove it in, otherwise it could run down into the head, and clog the oil port

 

[Joost27]

oh...i know lol my friend did that with a oil galley plug on his 4g63...bad news bears...

 

[Lewis7789]

I'm excited MegaSquirt has the ball rolling on their plug-n-play ECU for the PGT. Now all I'll need to do is delete the items I'll no longer need/use from my 93 PGT harness and and replace my Milly harness with this one. Then plug in the MS ECU and won't need to build my own. I'm sure there will be some tweaking needed for the P5 ECU but the plan is to delete that as well. I've got nothing but time and $1000/month budget. heh-heh.

If anyone else is interested, here's the thread for the MegaSquirt ECU info on ProbeTalk.com
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701304985

 

[JKPgt96]

Woot! If only they made a PNP Ms3/Ms3x, lol.

 

[Lewis7789]

4:45am and I can't sleep. lulz.

Well, I was laying in bed and thinking "What should I do about the rust and body work repairs on my P5?". This build has changed from "winter ZE swap" to "spring ZE swap +seats/harness/roll bar" to currently "sometime in the next year or two ZE swap+seats/harness/roll bar + new P5 shell". heh-heh. I think my P5 is just too rusty to put a s***-ton of work into just to have to repair all the rust and continue to use 3 cans of PB Blaster to remove one 14mm bolt. And while working on my friends Tennessee P5 a few months back when every single bolt came out with ease, it makes me want to start fresh. Especially since this will be my beloved project car and I plan on keeping it and driving it for many years to come (*but not in the winter). I want something I can be proud of. Not something I have to be embarrassed of with rust spots.

So if anyone sees a clean P5 chassis for less than $1000 within 200 miles of 44262 (Akron/Cleveland) please let me know. Thanks!

I'm super excited to start with a clean slate. (wiggle)

 

[ajkulish]

Evan why don't you just repair the body rust, get in on the Matte silver wrap so the body isnt exposed to rust again, then replace all bolts and nuts. Easier and cheaper no? But if you insist ill buy body panels from you...

 

[Josue6WGN]

There's no repairing his rust....at least to the point where it'd be worth the money, because it's just going to come right back. It will look good for a while, but there's still a certain uneasy feeling when you know what you've really got underneath it all. Wrapping it will not "seal" the body and prevent it from rusting again. There's rust all inside his seams, in every knook and crannie....everywhere. It will continue to rust from the inside out, nothing done to the outside shell will prevent that...

 

[ajkulish]

In that case, Dibs on fenders, passenger door possibly, and rear spoiler (2thumbs)

 

[Josue6WGN]

You need fenders? These have been on PIT craigslist for months and months...

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/2815263740.html

 

[hat1018]

I'm confused. Why not go forward with this shell? I thought the plan was for it to be your track car, therefore the rust repairs would last much longer since it won't be exposed to the elements as much. I say finish it and get some track time with it while you are looking for another one to build (better) with the engine from the Milly after you rebuild it in you own time. Just my two cents. On another note have you figured out what you are doing for a shifter yet? If you are going to part out and I hope you don't, I might want your CF hood and the shifter for sure.

 

[Lewis7789]

I should have noted I'm not parting it out. I would just swap everything over to the next P5. Silly gooses.

My frame rails are starting to rust through and since I'll be re-doing the entire car basically, it only makes sense to start with a solid, clean canvas. Plus I want it to be a street/track car. And dare I say, something worth making it to a page of Modified Magazine... I think building the car is half the fun of having a modded car, especially when you're not in a huge rush to get it back together so you can get to work in the morning. This build will probably take about a year. I've got the hot rod mentality now, it make take a year or two to complete but when it's done, it will be a hoot to drive AND see.

 

[PrinceValorum]

^His frame rails are banged up too (slammed life, y0!), and they're rusty. The last thing you want on the track is to be doubting your platform.

Josh is spot on, the cancer is everywhere and there's not much to do about it beside just find a cleaner one. This one would need totally stripped, acid dipped, and then probably about half of it cut off and new welded on for the compromised areas (aesthetically and structurally), so unless you had free labor somehow, access to a rotisserie and some crazy emotional attachment to it, it's not worth it at all.

Edit: got ninja'd