Leaking IC pipes

After 10000 miles of no problems, aside from clunking rear sway bar and pulsing acceleration, I got a blitz TT, and A/F gauge to increase the boost to 8-9 psi. A couple of days before I got the DTT, I noticed a loud farting type noise around 3800 rpm only under boost which after I got the TT, I noticed readings would drop from .43 hkpa to around .2-.25. I installed a MBC 4 or 5 days later and can now get the boost up to only .53 hkpa before the noise happens and then the same .2-.25???:wtf: I cranked the MBC all the way and could get nothing above .53:mad: Any ideas anyone, besides a leaking turbo/IC pipe or BPV?
 
IMO, Boost Science makes the better controller. I'm not knocking JoeP's, it looks fine, but he would not give me info on its design when I was shopping, and Cliff from Boost Science really knows what's up. Joe's looks pretty much like a modified leak valve, and one that makes a 90 degree turn. The Reliaboost is an inline controller, and features a ceramic ball and spring which is easier to move.
 
Re: Leak

Hey sorry to hear about the problem,

Are you still running stock intake plumbing. If yes then you can understand that it was probably never intended for boost much over what the stock wastegate was set to. Leak is what i'm thininking. Either from one of the connections or look at where the blow off valve is hooked in and also check into the blow off valve. When I turned up the boost on my MP5, I needed to add some washers on the inside the BOV. Hope it helped. Later
 
Re: Re: Leak

Brian MP5T said:
Hey sorry to hear about the problem,

Are you still running stock intake plumbing. If yes then you can understand that it was probably never intended for boost much over what the stock wastegate was set to. Leak is what i'm thininking. Either from one of the connections or look at where the blow off valve is hooked in and also check into the blow off valve. When I turned up the boost on my MP5, I needed to add some washers on the inside the BOV. Hope it helped. Later

As of right now, I don't know of anywhere to get hard pipes for the stock msp setup. (scratch) I checked the part that goes off to the BPV, and all other parts of the pipe that I could see and can't find any signs of a problem. I know it's there though, it just feels like a leak somewhere. The BPV goes crazy with the MBC up, but no extra power or rise on the gauge.:confused: I NEED HARD PIPES!!!!!
 
to check, start the car, open the hood and use your hand to plug the intake hole. if it stalls, no leak, if it runs, leak.
 
...and if your hand gets sucked in and spit out the exhaust (with a loujd farting noise) get that monster to the track!

Sounds like the BPV - what's the boost reading do right at the 3800rpm farting noise?
 
ping said:
...and if your hand gets sucked in and spit out the exhaust (with a loujd farting noise) get that monster to the track!

Sounds like the BPV - what's the boost reading do right at the 3800rpm farting noise?

Without the MBC it reads about 6.2psi when I hear the noise and then drops drastically to around 2.9-3.6psi. With MBC cranked to where it should give at least 12psi, it's more like 7.8psi and then drops to the same. I've read about others having a little boost drop with a MBC, but I don't think anyone was talking about this. Thanks for the advice afaceinthecrowd, I hadn't thought of that(thought) (2thumbs) I'll have to get at the CAI to test it.:mad:
 
Whoa.

Mine was leaking bad from the stock "t" fitting. I just had to zip tie it down really well and now I'm at 10-12 PSi of pure boost bliss.
 
Re: Leak

hesitationhater said:


As of right now, I don't know of anywhere to get hard pipes for the stock msp setup. (scratch) I checked the part that goes off to the BPV, and all other parts of the pipe that I could see and can't find any signs of a problem. I know it's there though, it just feels like a leak somewhere. The BPV goes crazy with the MBC up, but no extra power or rise on the gauge.:confused: I NEED HARD PIPES!!!!!

If you want a cheap solution that works but...well, doesn't look that...great. Go to an exaust company. Not like a Midas or " Name Brand " place, but a local with a bender. Get him to make some stainless parts, take some 1000 grit sand paper to them. Get em chromed and get some silcicon pipe connectors with some hose clamps. Cheap Zoom Zoom without leaks. Later
 

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hesitationhater said:
IMO, Boost Science makes the better controller. I'm not knocking JoeP's, it looks fine, but he would not give me info on its design when I was shopping, and Cliff from Boost Science really knows what's up. Joe's looks pretty much like a modified leak valve, and one that makes a 90 degree turn. The Reliaboost is an inline controller, and features a ceramic ball and spring which is easier to move.

What did you want to know? If you emailed something and I never responded, it is because I never got or possibly just didn't see it. I get well over 100 emails a day (not including SPAM!!), so occassionally some get overlooked, then there are some that I just don't have the time to answer based on what it was regarding. I get a lot of "how to___?" emails that I just don't have the time for. If you were asking about the controller and I saw it, I would have responded however.

As for it being a modified leak valve, show me one leak valve that looks identical that could be modifed to be my MBC and I will just buy them instead of machining the seats, drilling, tapping, etc. and assembling :)..

Trust me the whole inline vs. 90 degree thing is marketing hype. Look at any quality EBC- NONE of them are inline- that does not make them flow better or worse. If it were a free flowing line, it would make a difference- however all it is is pressure moving through the line to move a diaphragm- not much volume at all going through it. The ceramic ball thing all depends on the size of the ball used also- "xx uses a ceramic ball"- how big is it and how heavy would it be if it weren't ceramic??? All this was taken into consideration when I designed my MBC- that is why I use a 5/32" ball- it is still lighter than the ceramic larger ones that others use.

An MBC is an MBC (ball and spring- good designs/assembly procedures- not talking about Ebay junk or anything :) )They all work the same, some have features that others don't (like my dual ball overboost protection design), some may work better on this car and not that one and others will work better on that car and not this one. Other than that, it is personal preference.

If you went to my site, there is all the info you would need on the controller :).
Joe
 
hesitationhater said:


Without the MBC it reads about 6.2psi when I hear the noise and then drops drastically to around 2.9-3.6psi. With MBC cranked to where it should give at least 12psi, it's more like 7.8psi and then drops to the same. I've read about others having a little boost drop with a MBC, but I don't think anyone was talking about this. Thanks for the advice afaceinthecrowd, I hadn't thought of that(thought) (2thumbs) I'll have to get at the CAI to test it.:mad:

Just look around for cracks/splits in the IC hoses. Check the fitting that the BOV attaches to on the IC pipe, a lot of people have broken theirs there. Also just go around and make sure all the clamps are tight. Sounds like you definitely have a boost leak.
Joe
 
You know what would be cool. A really good picture of the engine, or several, and someone pshop some labels on it where all these parts are too. Maybe sticky it too.

Then we talk about such and such part has a leak or problem, we can say look at pic, look at "B", and do this.....bla bla.

Would be great for noobs....heck, I can use it too :)
 
"to check, start the car, open the hood and use your hand to plug the intake hole. if it stalls, no leak, if it runs, leak."

Is this true?

I went out, and I'm no engine geek so ignore the stupidity here, but I'm assuming you mean covering the hole that is marked Callaway? Big blaack plastic thing. Just so that I know were talking about the same thing

Anyways, car still ran. I'll try again later'


I'm concerned because I do notice that the turbo spools @ 2800, spins like nuts and accels like crazy until about 3800-4000, then everything just dies (only sometimes, temp outside don't matter), and from that point on she really does't accel very quickly. Since the car only has about 800 kms on it I don't go any higher then that.

I just assumed this was the infamous hesitation.

My engine did have some coolant over it when I recieved it. I cleaned it off, and it hasn't come back so I assumed that was just overspill.
 
Parts list

newf said:
You know what would be cool. A really good picture of the engine, or several, and someone pshop some labels on it where all these parts are too. Maybe sticky it too.

Then we talk about such and such part has a leak or problem, we can say look at pic, look at "B", and do this.....bla bla.

Would be great for noobs....heck, I can use it too :)

I already did that. It's a new thread on MSP section.
 
newf said:
"


I'm concerned because I do notice that the turbo spools @ 2800, spins like nuts and accels like crazy until about 3800-4000, then everything just dies (only sometimes, temp outside don't matter), and from that point on she really does't accel very quickly. Since the car only has about 800 kms on it I don't go any higher then that.

I just assumed this was the infamous hesitation.


Do you notice any noise when everything dies?

I thought the hesitation that the other msp's had was like mine's. It isn't like it overall loses power at a certain rpm, but more like I am flooring it and and letting off over and over when I hold it at 3/4 - WOT. More like a pulse.
 
kwiktsi said:


What did you want to know? If you emailed something and I never responded, it is because I never got or possibly just didn't see it. I get well over 100 emails a day (not including SPAM!!), so occassionally some get overlooked, then there are some that I just don't have the time to answer based on what it was regarding. I get a lot of "how to___?" emails that I just don't have the time for. If you were asking about the controller and I saw it, I would have responded however.

An MBC is an MBC (ball and spring- good designs/assembly procedures- not talking about Ebay junk or anything :) )They all work the same, some have features that others don't (like my dual ball overboost protection design), some may work better on this car and not that one and others will work better on that car and not this one. Other than that, it is personal preference.

If you went to my site, there is all the info you would need on the controller :).
Joe


I emailed to you and asked for some specifics on how exactly your MBC works. I have only really seen 1 which was one of my co workers designs, and I just wanted to compare the way both of them actually work. You did respond, and told me to check your website. I could not find details on the way it worked as I am sure you don't want to advertise your design for all to copy:) .

This is my first turbo car and I never knew exactly how a controller worked untill my co-worker showed me and explained. He told me that sometimes people use a leak type valve to get a similar effect as the ball and spring, and that a lot of times those are the ones that have a 90 degree in it. SORRY
 
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hesitationhater

no noise when everything dies. Just the same thing as you put it. Even though I have the gas held down in one spot, it's like I'm lifting off the throttle, then back on again, and the car almost has a mild shake to it for a second, then I have to change gears ( car not broken in) Doesn't happen all the time. I was driving around tonight and never noticed it at all, and man can this car f'n move for a 4 cyl. Driving my mp3, I used to miss my 200 hp 97 Prelude's power, but when this turbo works as it should..... I don't miss that prelude the slightest. this thing could eat my mp3 without breaking a sweat.....unless the hesitation is there.
 
newf said:
"to check, start the car, open the hood and use your hand to plug the intake hole. if it stalls, no leak, if it runs, leak."

Is this true?

I went out, and I'm no engine geek so ignore the stupidity here, but I'm assuming you mean covering the hole that is marked Callaway? Big blaack plastic thing. Just so that I know were talking about the same thing

Anyways, car still ran. I'll try again later'






Did you ever try again? I'm gonna check mine tomorrow when I actually get some time, but I'm curious if your's continued to run while plugged. I noticed that Callaway nozzle thing on the stock airbox was really loose when I put in the CAI, you might want to check that thing before plugging it up again. I just wonder if you can maybe hear where it is leaking at when you plug it? :confused:
 
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