So this is my first winter with my 2014 CX-5 and I live in Nova Scotia, where we love to over-salt the roads....wondering if anyone can tell me if Krown is the way to go here......I drive alot on the highways too, where there is a significant amount of salt.....I'm a little concerned with them drilling holes in my doors but maybe I'm just being paranoid? Would love to hear thoughts or concerns, or experiences with your own CX-5 and what you did as far as rust proofing goes, thanks guys.
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Krown Rust Control & Undercoating
- Thread starter Pistons
- Start date
If you search around this and other forums, you will certainly find opinions that diverge tremendously concerning rust proofing. When I looked into this, I did find that Krown is very well regarded and trusted. As for the holes drilled into you car, I would not worry too much. They use grease around the holes and plug them with plastic caps, so rust should not form around them. I had oil based rust proofing on my Protege 5 for years, and no rust ever develloped around the drill holes. I did crop up just about every where else though...
Which brigns me to the my next point. The only evidence you will find anywhere on the actuall effectiveness of any rust proofing method is anectodal at best. Someone on a forum that says "I had mine rust proofed and never got any rust" is not proof: nobody can tell if the car would have rusted or not the other way around. My experience with rust proofing (also anectotal, keep in mind) was not very good. My Protege 5 rusted like crazy, worst than most I would say, despite the so called rust proofing and the hundreads of $ invested.
One thing that you must worry about more than the holes is the rubber and plastic turning to goop. After just 2 or 3 years, all of the rubber fittings around the doors and under the hood started drooping badly. Rust proofers must be extreemly carefull about protecting rubber and plastic, but they usually aren't.
Also, expect to have a car that looks dirty all the time. Mine had black gunk under the doors a week after any wash. It washes easily enough, but it always comes back even several months after the application and is super ugly.
Suffice to say I won't be rust proofing my CX-5. I think Mazda has come a long way with better paint and processes over the last few years, so rust should be less of a problem. Just my personnal experience; yours may varry, but know what you are getting into before you start.
Which brigns me to the my next point. The only evidence you will find anywhere on the actuall effectiveness of any rust proofing method is anectodal at best. Someone on a forum that says "I had mine rust proofed and never got any rust" is not proof: nobody can tell if the car would have rusted or not the other way around. My experience with rust proofing (also anectotal, keep in mind) was not very good. My Protege 5 rusted like crazy, worst than most I would say, despite the so called rust proofing and the hundreads of $ invested.
One thing that you must worry about more than the holes is the rubber and plastic turning to goop. After just 2 or 3 years, all of the rubber fittings around the doors and under the hood started drooping badly. Rust proofers must be extreemly carefull about protecting rubber and plastic, but they usually aren't.
Also, expect to have a car that looks dirty all the time. Mine had black gunk under the doors a week after any wash. It washes easily enough, but it always comes back even several months after the application and is super ugly.
Suffice to say I won't be rust proofing my CX-5. I think Mazda has come a long way with better paint and processes over the last few years, so rust should be less of a problem. Just my personnal experience; yours may varry, but know what you are getting into before you start.
I'm a little concerned with them drilling holes in my doors but maybe I'm just being paranoid? Would love to hear thoughts or concerns, or experiences with your own CX-5 and what you did as far as rust proofing goes, thanks guys.
You have good reason to be concerned about drilling holes in the steel.
The CX-5 is a thoroughly modern car in it's design and manufacture. It has some of the best rust protection in the business including a dual layer galvanization process on panels (dual layer of zinc coating). No further rust proofing is necessary or desirable and drilling through body panels penetrates the zinc coatings which are applied to stop rust from starting. Plus it's an unnecessary expense that adds weight and risks plugging the drain holes which could stop the salty road spray from draining as designed. Just hose it off with plain water periodically if you are concerned you have been in extra corrosive conditions and save the coatings for poorly protected cars without zinc under coatings like most cheap cars from decades past.
I had my CX-5 rust-proofed at the dealership when I purchased it. They applied a no-drip paraffin-based product and will be refreshing it yearly without additional charges.
Parafin rust proofing from dealers is one of the worst out there. It is known to cause rust more than it prevents it since paraffin dries and cracks, and will actually capture moisture and dirt to accelerate corrosion. Dealers offer this only for the added profit, while their added corrosion garentee is usually useless since it only covers perforation for just a few years more than the normal garentee. Your car is very unlikely to rust trough-and-trough in that amout of time, rust proofing or not.
Got my rust proof at Krown last weekend. They did drill holes but it wasn't bad, I think I only see couple on the doors and one on the lift gate. The CX-5 may have new technology to prevent rust but I don't want to take a chance since I want to keep the car for a long time. I had my Camry for 13 years without any rust to the under body or around door edges where rust tend to form most and it look like a new car when I clean it. Could I done it without rust proofing, maybe but it seem to work with the rust proofing so I rust proof the CX-5.
Could I done it without rust proofing, maybe but it seem to work with the rust proofing so I rust proof the CX-5.
That's like saying "I put Marvel Mystery Oil in my previous car and it always started so, I put Marvel Mystery oil in my new car".
That's like saying "I put Marvel Mystery Oil in my previous car and it always started so, I put Marvel Mystery oil in my new car".
It's not the same thing. All I'm saying is I rust proof the car and I didn't get rust, I didn't leave it to find out if it would rust or not without rust proofing and it's not some mystery oil. Just my opinion, it's up to the individual to decide what he/she wants to do with his/her car.
You have good reason to be concerned about drilling holes in the steel.
The CX-5 is a thoroughly modern car in it's design and manufacture. It has some of the best rust protection in the business including a dual layer galvanization process on panels (dual layer of zinc coating). No further rust proofing is necessary or desirable and drilling through body panels penetrates the zinc coatings which are applied to stop rust from starting. Plus it's an unnecessary expense that adds weight and risks plugging the drain holes which could stop the salty road spray from draining as designed. Just hose it off with plain water periodically if you are concerned you have been in extra corrosive conditions and save the coatings for poorly protected cars without zinc under coatings like most cheap cars from decades past.
^this^
Sea going steel ships rely on galvanic zinc coating for rust protection.
That's like saying "I put Marvel Mystery Oil in my previous car and it always started so, I put Marvel Mystery oil in my new car".
I have been told by some that I can have "tone" when I write, so please read this in the style of Will Rogers rather than Will Smith. Although certain that I am not an expert in automotive metals/rust I cannot be sure that you are. I can state that in ALL of my experience I have never seen a Mazda CX-5 with a rust problem. As much as this statement is a fact, it is not very useful as there may not have been sufficient time since the introduction of the model to permit a rust problem to evidence itself. Thus I am forced to fall back on personal experience.
My 1982 Plymouth reliant wagon had major rust work done in year 5 and was traded in and junked in year 9 with the rocker panels and floor pan gone. My 1990 Mazda 626 was 'Rust Checked' yearly and was still rust free when sold privately in 1999; although there were other same make/model vehicles in my area showing rust. Please note that this is not an endorsement of Rust Check over other proofing brands, merely my experience. I was sufficiently happy with MMO that I used it on my 1999 Volvo S70 which I sold privately rust free in 2012. I noted fewer rusty Volvos during that time than I had seen rusty Mazdas. Perhaps the industry was getting better at manufacture - or maybe it was just Volvo - who can tell?
My CX-5 was rust proofed in the fall of 2012 and will be recoated later this month. I tend to keep my vehicles for 10 + years. I want those years to be as trouble free as possible. I don't expect to see visible rust on any new car in the first 3-5 years of ownership, and I would advise anyone only keeping a vehicle within that time frame to not bother with the expense of the yearly treatments. I'm in it for the long haul. It may not be necessary. I do it anyway. It is an insurance against design errors (remember the CX-5 is too new to tell) and the unintended consequences of design decisions (Skyactiv anyone? More fuel efficient because its lighter. Lighter because the metals are thinner. Is door mirror shake a design feature or a design flaw?). It may be false piece of mind, but piece of mind none the less.
Brian
As much as this statement is a fact, it is not very useful as there may not have been sufficient time since the introduction of the model to permit a rust problem to evidence itself. Thus I am forced to fall back on personal experience.
This is where the flaw in your logic happens.
You should not fall back on personal experience when the rust issues you experienced were on a Plymouth wagon built over 30 years ago. At least not if you want to remain logical.
The CX-5 is a very modern car and uses the latest galvanizing and painting technologies. The CX-5 resembles a 1980's Plymouth about as much as a Tea Party activist resembles an early American Patriot.
Parafin rust proofing from dealers is one of the worst out there. It is known to cause rust more than it prevents it since paraffin dries and cracks, and will actually capture moisture and dirt to accelerate corrosion. Dealers offer this only for the added profit, while their added corrosion garentee is usually useless since it only covers perforation for just a few years more than the normal garentee. Your car is very unlikely to rust trough-and-trough in that amout of time, rust proofing or not.
How many cars have you seen this on? Sounds like you have a long experience in the domain.
I guess I'll see who's right soon enough : you or the people that recommended me this option. It is just a car after all.
How many cars have you seen this on? Sounds like you have a long experience in the domain.
After I had my rust proofing debacle with my Protege 5 I did loads of reseach on this. Most consumer organizations (Consumer Reports, APA etc.) don't recomend dealer rust proofing because it is ineffective and usually just a way for dealers to increase their markup. Oil base rust proofing may work better, but the only studies I read where this type of treatment was shown to be effective were subsidited by the rust proofing companies, so... And don't forget the downsides I mentionned in my post above. The only types of rust proofing that seem to get recommended are grease based, but this type of treatment is expensive (can be 700$ for a car the size of the CX-5), and can take many hours to apply. The reason it works is that it does not drip away like oil, but does not harden or dry up like wax. That is why they call grease "self healing": if a gap devellops in the coating, the surrounding product oozes back in.
Just like MikeM said, rust proofing is more of a scare tactic these days, as cars rarely rust anymore (hopefully, this applies to new Mazdas too!). See this on dealer extras for example:
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/car-tips/buying-a-car-skip-the-expensive-dealership-extras/article13070660/
Here is an example: I traded my Ford Taurus in about two years ago, it was 8 years old and had ALL the options for rust proofing, clear coat protection and the whole 10 yards. I remember it was about 3k on top of the original sticker price. The car was always dealer maintained and babied. I traded the car in 2012 and got 1800 bucks for it.... When I asked about all the options I had done to make sure the car would not rust they just smiled and said that used car dealers or auction houses don't care. The funny thing was that they were turning this around real quickly when I decided to purchase a new vehicle. I asked them why I would pay for this if nobody really gave a crap about it when I traded the car.... So funny stupid how these departments work like the left and right hand and not knowing what one is doing. I have since stopped to purchase these 'protectors' on my wife's vehicle and on my own. Is it worth it? Maybe to people who truly drive the car into the ground, I figure in 8 years we all fly and cars are like cassette tapes....
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