I know there are lots of threads here and the other site about the install of these shocks but a question that I could not find a definite answer on was how much shorter are the Konis? It was said that they were shorter to use with lowering springs, NOT TRUE. They are the exact same overall length and travel as the stock shocks. The only change is they are made to work in the lower position without ruining the valving soon like the stock ones.
I removed the bump stops all together for my install and can tell that I was really on them a lot before. Much more control of the roll although it probably has more overall roll without the stops, but the handling is very predictable and smooth. I have the shocks set at 1.25 turns from soft out of 2 in the rear, (probably good there) and the same in the front (probably need 1.75).
Did not see a real need for the swaybars before this but with the stops gone they may be worth all the trouble in the end. The shocks only took me about 2.5 hours but I had a lift and all the tools. The easy way to get the rear shock mounts out is definitely to drop the rear cradle one side at a time to gain access to the 3 bolts otherwise buried behind it FYI.
Another suggestion I have is to ditch the stock vibration dampeners on the front and rear control arms since they are not "tuned" for the aftermarket stuff and you can save 5-7lbs. of unsprung weight.
I removed the bump stops all together for my install and can tell that I was really on them a lot before. Much more control of the roll although it probably has more overall roll without the stops, but the handling is very predictable and smooth. I have the shocks set at 1.25 turns from soft out of 2 in the rear, (probably good there) and the same in the front (probably need 1.75).
Did not see a real need for the swaybars before this but with the stops gone they may be worth all the trouble in the end. The shocks only took me about 2.5 hours but I had a lift and all the tools. The easy way to get the rear shock mounts out is definitely to drop the rear cradle one side at a time to gain access to the 3 bolts otherwise buried behind it FYI.
Another suggestion I have is to ditch the stock vibration dampeners on the front and rear control arms since they are not "tuned" for the aftermarket stuff and you can save 5-7lbs. of unsprung weight.
