Just ordered Corksport SRI and Exhaust!!

mykflo

Member
**UPDATED** Just ordered Corksport SRI and Exhaust!! ***REVIEW INSIDE***

Pulled the trigger on Corksport's combo. It was paining me not finding any dyno charts for different intakes and exhausts. I know the gains are not huge but on a small car like the 2, i think every bit helps and will be felt. Not sure if the exhaust produces more lowend than the tanabe or racing beat, and not sure if the SRI is comperable to the Injen CAI. So.. if anybody and assure me i did the right thing, it would help. And if anybody has any input showing/saying otherwise, please post... I'm sure the information will help other 2 owners with their build. I'll post pics and a review later. Can't wait..
 
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I installed my CS SRI the other day and I love it. A little more throttle response and maybe a couple HP, but the best thing is that it sounds AMAZING. I thought about the Injen intake but my office is at an abandoned coal mine so it would probably suck up water..
 
Ditto to the above.

Please do the installs separately and report back on each one. SRI first, please.

Love my Corksport SRI. If I were to re-do the exhaust, I might go to 2.25"

John
 
Ditto to the above.

Please do the installs separately and report back on each one. SRI first, please.

Love my Corksport SRI. If I were to re-do the exhaust, I might go to 2.25"

John

I did my exhaust first, (check sig.. no mufflers/cat with an 18" resonator only), and I'd say it's good for an extra maybe 6-7 hp.. pure guess don't quote me on that. The intake was maybe good for 4 hp. In my car, since it's been lightened too, it is definitely faster than a stock 2, that's for sure (and my god is it a s*** load louder).
 
Here is the dyno sheet we have posted for our intake.

CorkSport-Mazda-2-intake-dyno-2.png


-Derrick
 
Thank You Derrick! That was me that called you yesterday like 3 times asking about the exhaust legallity in TX haha. Thanks. Any dyno info on the exhaust? I already ordered it but the info may help others looking into your products.
 
I've got a CS SRI and a custom fab'd 2.25" single resonated exhaust and I make 113hp at the flywheel up from 98hp stock. I've got dyno charts posted somewheres around here!
 
Pulled the trigger on Corksport's combo. It was paining me not finding any dyno charts for different intakes and exhausts. I know the gains are not huge but on a small car like the 2, i think every bit helps and will be felt. Not sure if the exhaust produces more lowend than the tanabe or racing beat, and not sure if the SRI is comperable to the Injen CAI. So.. if anybody and assure me i did the right thing, it would help. And if anybody has any input showing/saying otherwise, please post... I'm sure the information will help other 2 owners with their build. I'll post pics and a review later. Can't wait..

The SRI and corksport exhaust were the first mods I had done on my Mazda 2. I didn't really notice a power gain from the SRI but when I coupled it with the exhaust I could definitely feel a power increase. Make sure that before you install the SRI that you disconnect your Negative battery cable and reconnect after the install is complete. This resets the ECU and helps it learn the SRI which will give you more power.

Also the SRI combined with the exhaust sounds amazing! It put a mighty bark in my Mazda 2.
 
thanks for the advice... will do. I'll keep you all posted. Keep an eye out for Mykflo's 2 thread coming soon.
 
I've got a CS SRI and a custom fab'd 2.25" single resonated exhaust and I make 113hp at the flywheel up from 98hp stock. I've got dyno charts posted somewheres around here!

Just curious , how did you measure to the whywheel? Those are great numbers ! it would be 120+ hp to the wheels !

Congrats

Andres
 
Just curious , how did you measure to the flywheel? Those are great numbers ! it would be 120+ hp to the wheels !

Congrats

Andres

Backwards.

Flywheel is higher than to the wheels. Drivetrain losses take out power, not add it.

Only an engine dyno can produce real flywheel numbers. Any other method is derivative. Dynapacks are the closest, since they mount directly to the hubs, but it is still an approximation based on estimates of driveline loss.

The most consistently comparable "to the wheels" figures are from Dynojets using SAE correction, like what Derrick posted. Dyno Dynamics "Shoot out" mode is also a good standard, though it generates smaller numbers than Dynojets since it is an eddy current dyno instead of inertia. So people like to quote Dynojet #'s since they seem higher. Or Dynapack #'s, since the rotating mass of the wheel/tire is removed.
 
Backwards.

Flywheel is higher than to the wheels. Drivetrain losses take out power, not add it.

Only an engine dyno can produce real flywheel numbers. Any other method is derivative. Dynapacks are the closest, since they mount directly to the hubs, but it is still an approximation based on estimates of driveline loss.

The most consistently comparable "to the wheels" figures are from Dynojets using SAE correction, like what Derrick posted. Dyno Dynamics "Shoot out" mode is also a good standard, though it generates smaller numbers than Dynojets since it is an eddy current dyno instead of inertia. So people like to quote Dynojet #'s since they seem higher. Or Dynapack #'s, since the rotating mass of the wheel/tire is removed.

Have to respectfully disagree with you on the dynapack,Andy!

Dyno jets are sort of the Chevy of the dyno world, and while popular, are not very accurate, or repeatable.. This is why most professional tuners and race teams stay away from them. They are great if you want quick painless info, or need to work a dyno day.

The dynapack, dyno dynamics, and Mustang dynos, are all very expensive, very accurate, and very repeatable. All are load cell, though of different type. Load cell allows you a much greater control over the rate of acceleration, and the length of a pull. In addition, all three offer step type loading for tuning in a specific rpm range( not really what it's for, but I'm a tuner, so that's how I think).

The hub style dynos, while a HUGE pain in the ass to set up, are by far the most repeatable, simply due to fact that one more variable( tire rolling resistance) is removed. It is interesting to note that on a load type, tire contact dyno, tire pressure changes from the first run to the last of the day, can make a huge difference in output/ readings.

Dynapacks, as with all dynos, are only as good as the operator. There are any number of ways to "fudge" the output numbers on a given day. And this has been the subject of some discussion around the forums and the net. The simple way to avoid this, is to ask around, and only use a well respected dyno shop. It is also advisable to always have the operator print the dyno parameters(correction factor, temps, pull length, step times, ect) so that you can see if anything looks a bit off.

The final thing I will tell you is that you should always, always use the same dyno, same operator for your car. Remember, the only thing that counts is the delta of the numbers , NOT the numbers themselves!!
 
I think I failed to properly make my point. My assertion on the Dynojet's value is based on the commonality of setup and ubiquitous availability. Most of the eddy current dynos tend to be operated with parameters that suit the specific operator. There seems to be a lot less consistency between installations. The Dynojet with a standard correction factor is most useful for comparing numbers across the nation. Not that it's all *that* accurate, but quoting #'s from a Dynopack, Mustang or DD is almost useless for comparing to someone in another part of the country.

To Joe's point, for the most part, I use eddy current dynos to do tuning and parts comparisons, and a Dynojet to get "bragging #'s". Each has a different value.
 
Any dyno output can be fudged as there are a lot of factors that can be "adjusted". My interia dyno has correction factors for weather (SAE), internal engine inertia, and coast down drag (inertia wheel drag such as bearings and seals).

If I were so inclined, I could "adjust" any of those to make my motors look better. Sigh,,,,,,,,, Just give me simplicity and consistency so I can build motors better. The actual numbers are B.S. Its the Delta between motors, modifications, etc, that counts.

John
 
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Anyone know how much of a gas mileage hit there is with this combo?

And if I were to get the exhaust, do I need to get any new gaskets for the install?

Thanks,
-- Jonathan
 
I'd imagine fuel efficiency would be slightly improved with the intake and exhaust opened up. That is unless the ecu and fuel system prevents the mixture from leaning out at all in which case it could get slightly worse. I'm sure that helped, lol.
 

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