Just got a Protege5 Looking for some help
- Thread starter wolfy53
- Start date
Thanks again fellas for the help here. I got a surprise today and my left lca arrived as well as the exhaust pipe. So I decided to put them on.
They were both pretty straight forward. Just unbolt and rebolt the new ones on. Takes some time and patience but I got them on. The car runs so much more quite. Much better. No nasty rattle anymore.
And man my lower ball joints were shot. I would say they were gone 30k miles ago... The biggest pain was getting the ball joint to come out of the spindle. I had to get another ball joint fork. One wasn't enough. No big deal. New ones are MOOG. Very good quality.
I also cleaned up the rim it looks a bit better. I drained and refilled the auto trans fluid. WOW it was dirty. I got a little over 2.5 qts out. Refilled with fresh fluid. I am sure it was the original with 165k miles.
I did re-clean the MAF, no change really in that silly surge. Its really slow surge and just on moderate to full acceleration. One thing that I just remembered that happened when we were taking the head off my uncle undid the throttle set screw. We tightened it back up to where we thought it was. The car idles perfect. Maybe that is or could be the issue? The throttle is strange on this car. It has a very high tip, or initial response. Maybe its normal for this car, I don't know. Any thoughts on this?
Anyway thanks fellas for the help with this. Enjoy the pics! Now hopefully my right or passenger LCA will come in next week. Then the car should be close to sorted out. I do have to replace the rear sway bar end links as well. One broke clean off. Later will be to have the rear hatch painted, repair the rust over the passenger rear quarter and the drivers door bottom.
Anyway just a few pics.
exhaust leak anyone...
old lca
They were both pretty straight forward. Just unbolt and rebolt the new ones on. Takes some time and patience but I got them on. The car runs so much more quite. Much better. No nasty rattle anymore.
And man my lower ball joints were shot. I would say they were gone 30k miles ago... The biggest pain was getting the ball joint to come out of the spindle. I had to get another ball joint fork. One wasn't enough. No big deal. New ones are MOOG. Very good quality.
I also cleaned up the rim it looks a bit better. I drained and refilled the auto trans fluid. WOW it was dirty. I got a little over 2.5 qts out. Refilled with fresh fluid. I am sure it was the original with 165k miles.
I did re-clean the MAF, no change really in that silly surge. Its really slow surge and just on moderate to full acceleration. One thing that I just remembered that happened when we were taking the head off my uncle undid the throttle set screw. We tightened it back up to where we thought it was. The car idles perfect. Maybe that is or could be the issue? The throttle is strange on this car. It has a very high tip, or initial response. Maybe its normal for this car, I don't know. Any thoughts on this?
Anyway thanks fellas for the help with this. Enjoy the pics! Now hopefully my right or passenger LCA will come in next week. Then the car should be close to sorted out. I do have to replace the rear sway bar end links as well. One broke clean off. Later will be to have the rear hatch painted, repair the rust over the passenger rear quarter and the drivers door bottom.
Anyway just a few pics.
exhaust leak anyone...
old lca
ReginaldWagon
Member
- :
- 2014 Mazda3 i Touring, 2002 Mazda Protege5
Looking good!
When do you think you'll be finished swapping out the body pieces? Would love to see the before and after of the rear hatch.
When do you think you'll be finished swapping out the body pieces? Would love to see the before and after of the rear hatch.
NestorGonzalez
Member
- :
- 03 Protege 5
Looks good. I just switched my lower control arm and all my suspension. I also just changed by power locks. Same thing as you they still worked but the mechanical part was not doing its function.
Just curious how many miles did you get out of your lower control arms? I got my car with 164k miles on it. and man they were shot. That lower ball joint I could just flop around so easy, didn't have to push it over, just tip the arm up...
Sounds like those plastic gears breaking on those locks is a common problem. Really easy to change out. And the part was super cheap at the junk yard.
Thanks. A header would be nice, but I am still not sure if I will keep this car or sell it. I already installed the new J pipe. The car is nice. The replacement seats are just about brand new and the car rides nice. It will be much better when I get the passenger LCA installed.
Car is running much better. There still is somewhat of a surge but it isn't near as bad anymore. I may reset the ECM to see if that helps, now that I don't have a big exhaust leak.
Sounds like those plastic gears breaking on those locks is a common problem. Really easy to change out. And the part was super cheap at the junk yard.
Thanks. A header would be nice, but I am still not sure if I will keep this car or sell it. I already installed the new J pipe. The car is nice. The replacement seats are just about brand new and the car rides nice. It will be much better when I get the passenger LCA installed.
Car is running much better. There still is somewhat of a surge but it isn't near as bad anymore. I may reset the ECM to see if that helps, now that I don't have a big exhaust leak.
NestorGonzalez
Member
- :
- 03 Protege 5
I didnt change mine until i had 228K. I should have done it way sooner but it was all working. The only reason i changed it out was my tires were wearing down really bad on the inside. I changed the struts out last year and the rest of the suspension out before thanksgiving. My suspension mounts were still perfect but i changed them out anyway. There is some kind of bushing that sits around the strut that makes a squeaking noise. I changed the strut mounts thinking that was the problem but it wasnt. Im thinking of getting new springs since i've heard they sag after a certain amount of time.
Just curious how many miles did you get out of your lower control arms? I got my car with 164k miles on it. and man they were shot. That lower ball joint I could just flop around so easy, didn't have to push it over, just tip the arm up...
Sounds like those plastic gears breaking on those locks is a common problem. Really easy to change out. And the part was super cheap at the junk yard.
Thanks. A header would be nice, but I am still not sure if I will keep this car or sell it. I already installed the new J pipe. The car is nice. The replacement seats are just about brand new and the car rides nice. It will be much better when I get the passenger LCA installed.
Car is running much better. There still is somewhat of a surge but it isn't near as bad anymore. I may reset the ECM to see if that helps, now that I don't have a big exhaust leak.
I have to admit. . . I was just looking at pics the first time I went through this thread. That's how I missed the part where you had a j-pipe on the way. Watching your progress is a bit inspirational.
At around 200k miles, I swapped out the LCAs and hub assemblies. They weren't that bad. I just did it as a precautionary measure. But those were mainly highway miles, so a lot less turning.
Oddly enough, my daughter just picked up a Protege5. . . I haven't looked yet, but the electronic locks aren't working. I'm not sure if it's just 1 door or all.
Do you have a multimeter? You can check the MAF outputs to see if it corresponds with the surge. There should be three wires for the MAF labeled A, B, and C. B is the MAF output signal. A should be 12V in and C is ground. The output voltage may fluctuate a little, but check the voltage at idle to establish a base, then mildly accelerate and see if the voltage changes along with. Same with the MAP, but the surge sounds more MAF related.
At around 200k miles, I swapped out the LCAs and hub assemblies. They weren't that bad. I just did it as a precautionary measure. But those were mainly highway miles, so a lot less turning.
Oddly enough, my daughter just picked up a Protege5. . . I haven't looked yet, but the electronic locks aren't working. I'm not sure if it's just 1 door or all.
Do you have a multimeter? You can check the MAF outputs to see if it corresponds with the surge. There should be three wires for the MAF labeled A, B, and C. B is the MAF output signal. A should be 12V in and C is ground. The output voltage may fluctuate a little, but check the voltage at idle to establish a base, then mildly accelerate and see if the voltage changes along with. Same with the MAP, but the surge sounds more MAF related.
Thanks for the kind words fellas. It's nice to give this car some much needed love. It was just driven hard and beat on, just no care.
That is a great idea on the multimeter. I have done that on another vehicle before, thanks for reminding me.
I will have some parts up for sale when I am all done with this car. I will make someone a good deal
Just PM me or let me know. So far I have:
1 or 2 ignition coils, I believe they work, but have not verified.
Door lock actuator, I took off the cover to verify it wasn't busted.
Drivers seat fabric. No tears, and non smoker. I had to replace the entire seat, frame was broken.
Factory 6 disc in dash radio and CD changer, I was told it works, I need to verify
Also factory single disc CD player radio without the front cover. Was told it is brand new never used.
Looking forward to getting the last LCA in the mail today. Last will be to put that on, then the end links on the rear. Car should be good after that mechanically at least.
Weather permitting is when I will do some body work. I need to go to a few body shops to get some quotes for the rear hatch paint. I also need to fix the rust myself and have them touch up that as well. Then she will be ready to go. I really appreciate all the help here. Great place. Its so nice to have this info as I am new to these cars.
That is a great idea on the multimeter. I have done that on another vehicle before, thanks for reminding me.
I will have some parts up for sale when I am all done with this car. I will make someone a good deal
Just PM me or let me know. So far I have:1 or 2 ignition coils, I believe they work, but have not verified.
Door lock actuator, I took off the cover to verify it wasn't busted.
Drivers seat fabric. No tears, and non smoker. I had to replace the entire seat, frame was broken.
Factory 6 disc in dash radio and CD changer, I was told it works, I need to verify
Also factory single disc CD player radio without the front cover. Was told it is brand new never used.
Looking forward to getting the last LCA in the mail today. Last will be to put that on, then the end links on the rear. Car should be good after that mechanically at least.
Weather permitting is when I will do some body work. I need to go to a few body shops to get some quotes for the rear hatch paint. I also need to fix the rust myself and have them touch up that as well. Then she will be ready to go. I really appreciate all the help here. Great place. Its so nice to have this info as I am new to these cars.
Wow great information. I have heard about those readers. I had no idea they are so cheap. Thanks for the service procedure as well. I haven't had much time this week to work on it. Hope to get off to the body shop to get an estimate on the paint work soon. I also am planning on replacing the passenger LCA. That should button up all the mechanicals.
Well I had just a bit of time to work on the car this weekend. Just a few hours on Saturday and a few Sunday afternoon. I got quite a bit done actually. I got the oil changed again. Car still puffs smoke on start up. Mostly after it has sat over night. Remember I did replace the valve stem oil seals, just not the guides. They must be worn. Oh well its not the end of the world as the car runs awesome.
I got the hole in the floor repaired with some fiberglass. I also got started on the rust repair above the rear passenger tire. I got the rust on the bottom of the drivers door ground out and sealed and the first coat of body filler on it Sorry I forgot to take pics of that.
I also got the engine bay detailed and the passenger side lower control arm installed. It is nice to have the suspension back up to par. No more creaking and banging around and just bad handling. It drives and handles awesome now. I still have the rear sway bar end links and bushings to put on and that is it!
I did get the headlights restored. I used the 3M headlight restore kit. It has 2 stages of sanding and 2 compounds. I put on a sealer myself.
Enjoy the pics!
Dirty engine bay. Man it was bad.
After
Polished the front bumper as well. The rest of the car will shine up nice.
Hood before shows the condition of the paint.
Headlights Before.
During and after.
I got the hole in the floor repaired with some fiberglass. I also got started on the rust repair above the rear passenger tire. I got the rust on the bottom of the drivers door ground out and sealed and the first coat of body filler on it Sorry I forgot to take pics of that.
I also got the engine bay detailed and the passenger side lower control arm installed. It is nice to have the suspension back up to par. No more creaking and banging around and just bad handling. It drives and handles awesome now. I still have the rear sway bar end links and bushings to put on and that is it!
I did get the headlights restored. I used the 3M headlight restore kit. It has 2 stages of sanding and 2 compounds. I put on a sealer myself.
Enjoy the pics!
Dirty engine bay. Man it was bad.
After
Polished the front bumper as well. The rest of the car will shine up nice.
Hood before shows the condition of the paint.
Headlights Before.
During and after.
I am really impressed by how every thing you do with this car has turned out great... Well done. Thanks for the Pictures.
Thanks again fellas. I appreciate your help and comments with this car. Sorry I didn't get any pics of the body work yet. The inside seam bottom of the drivers door was the worst for some surface rust. I ground all that back and hit with a rust converter, then etch primer, then primer then a few coats of white paint. The other doors had a few small spots that got the same treatment.
The outside of the drivers door bottom has some bubbling as well. So I took my grinder out and got all of that ground back. Hit with rust converter, then some etch primer. Now a thin coat of filler. Next will be some sanding and priming and painting.
The rear passenger wheel arch is in the process of being fixed. I cut out all the old rot, and and in the process of filling it in with fiberglass cloth and resin. It would be nice to do it right with metal, I just don't have the tools to do that, and don't have the budget to have my guy do it. So I am trying my hand at the fiberglass cloth. So far it is turning out pretty good. I have the first coat of filler on it and hopefully next week I will get another few coats on and sanding of course. It won't be perfect, but much better then this.
Last things to do is to polish and clean the whole car. And replace the rear sway bar bushings and end links. Also install the window tint.
The outside of the drivers door bottom has some bubbling as well. So I took my grinder out and got all of that ground back. Hit with rust converter, then some etch primer. Now a thin coat of filler. Next will be some sanding and priming and painting.
The rear passenger wheel arch is in the process of being fixed. I cut out all the old rot, and and in the process of filling it in with fiberglass cloth and resin. It would be nice to do it right with metal, I just don't have the tools to do that, and don't have the budget to have my guy do it. So I am trying my hand at the fiberglass cloth. So far it is turning out pretty good. I have the first coat of filler on it and hopefully next week I will get another few coats on and sanding of course. It won't be perfect, but much better then this.
Last things to do is to polish and clean the whole car. And replace the rear sway bar bushings and end links. Also install the window tint.
Based on what you have already done, I am sure it will turn out great. The problem with fiberglass and metal is that when they are joined, the different materials don't bond to well over long periods of time. Expansion and contraction rates will eventually reveal cracks along the area of repair.
Thanks dill. We will see. My first time doing this kind of work. So I am not expert. You are correct though this is not a long term repair. It will eventually do what you described. Hopefully it will look better for while at least. Fortunately I didn't have to cut out to much. Most of it was surface rust, and once ground back revealed some good metal still. I was surprised about that.
Then you are lucky as the damage looks like it would make some serious holes. See if you can get away without using fiber glass cloth, stick with the paste and some bondo and it should last you longer than you would expect.
Yes I was surprised as well. I thought it would be rotted all the way through where the paint was bubbling. But after I ground off the paint and the surface rust. I found solid metal. Really the only spots that were soft was just less then an inch from the bottom and only an inch or so long. I couldn't believe it as well.
I did use just a bit of fiberglass cloth on the back side to help with the strength. But most of the work will be filler. Again not the 100% perfect way to do the repair, but I wanted to try out my hand at body work. So that is what I am doing And I think that it will turn out better. The repair is very solid so far. I will be away for a week or so but hope to be back on it soon.
I did use just a bit of fiberglass cloth on the back side to help with the strength. But most of the work will be filler. Again not the 100% perfect way to do the repair, but I wanted to try out my hand at body work. So that is what I am doing
And I think that it will turn out better. The repair is very solid so far. I will be away for a week or so but hope to be back on it soon.
