J-SPEC high compression pistons

sondogg

Member
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2002 Protege 5
You can get a set of these from mazdaperformanceparts.com for $134.95. They increase the compression ratio to 10.7:1.

On the website it says extra tuning and adjustments may be required.

What tuning or adjustments would be needed? And how much would it cost?
 
Fuel upgrades....Fuel pump, regulator would be helpful. Change the heat range on your plugs. One thing though, if you plan on going turbo and running high boost in the future you might want to re-think buying them.:D
 
Cool thanx. Yeah I'm aware that turbo is generally more reliable with a lower compression ratio.
 
not to mention new timing, cam timing, ecu fuel remap to fully take advantage of your new high compression piston, and a whole lot of na stuff like head works and stuff. It's basically if you want to keep your car na then it would be good choice, but if you want to go force induction then this is not a good choice.

Basically you have to decide what you want for your engine.
 
Well...I think that turbo would be awesome...but I don't have $35000 to do it right.

What I'm thinking of is building it N/A.

J-SPEC Pistons: $134.95
J-SPEC Intake Cam: $179.99
J-SPEC Exhaust Cam: $169.99
J-SPEC Intake Manifold: $595.00

A total of $1079.93 + labor. This would put me pretty close to 170 hp.

I would love to go turbo...I think thats the route I would rather go but, I just wanted to know if it would be worth it to go N/A?

I've heard that these Mazda engines can't "handle as much power" as say a Honda.
 
the manifold isnt really THAT important, and you will run into trouble without the VICS unless you swap ECU's with an mp3 (which doesnt have it) It will smooth out the powerband, but wont get you that much gains, especially for that price and hassel. i think if you want to run the stock ECU you have to get the VICS solenoid and wire it up to fool the ECU, but unless you have electrical skillz like TheMan its a lot of trouble

Put the money you planned on that into some cam gears or engine management. add dyno and tuning time to your costs as well.
 
sondogg said:
Well...I think that turbo would be awesome...but I don't have $35000 to do it right.

What I'm thinking of is building it N/A.

J-SPEC Pistons: $134.95
J-SPEC Intake Cam: $179.99
J-SPEC Exhaust Cam: $169.99
J-SPEC Intake Manifold: $595.00

A total of $1079.93 + labor. This would put me pretty close to 170 hp.

I would love to go turbo...I think thats the route I would rather go but, I just wanted to know if it would be worth it to go N/A?

I've heard that these Mazda engines can't "handle as much power" as say a Honda.

And oh the labor. To put the pistons in you will have to have the entire engine pulled. Your looking at $1000 in labor easily. Unless you have friends that can hook you up.

Even with all that you will not get near 170hp. The FS-ZE with proper management will only net you 163-165 hp.

Also you will have to start running higher octane fuel.
 
you dont need to pull the motor to do pistons...not necessarily anyway..I had JE pistons put in my 626 and they didnt pull the motor..yea...I'm trying to decide what I should do to the motor to get the most bang for my buck..Would swapping my DX ECU for an MP3 ECU help any?
 
SpicyMchaggis said:
you dont need to pull the motor to do pistons...not necessarily anyway..I had JE pistons put in my 626 and they didnt pull the motor..yea...I'm trying to decide what I should do to the motor to get the most bang for my buck..Would swapping my DX ECU for an MP3 ECU help any?

To do it properly you have to pull the engine. If you don't you take a large risk of damaging things that don't need to be damaged. If I were you I would never go back to that shop again, since they will obviously take dangerous shortcust just to save money.
 
i did my own high compression piston install and you DO NOT have to take the engine out, its not that difficult to do it with the engine still in the car
 
You dont neccesarily have to take the engine out just to replace them. But if you want to balance and blueprint you must. I would not recommend doing in the vehicle. It is very hard to make sure that dirt doesnt get into the engine. But do it as you wish. Any way on the items needed for the install, sondogg those are all good options except the manifold like uclap 5 said. But if i may add my two cents here. The engine wont run right without reflashing the stock ecu. I doubt anyone will program it though to the specs you require to run those pistons. Only with a piggyback will you be able to adjust fuel and ignition maps to tune this beast safely. You could also go with a standalone. But to tell you the truth the only thing i dont like about the install is your going thru all that work and leaving in the stock rods. They are a weak link in this particular motor. Unfortunately they dont make custom rods for the stock pistons and wrist pins. You would have to go with a floating pin design.
Just my two cents:D
 
hmm..how much would pistons and connecting rods cost? I thought someone on the board here had crower rods....i mean, to do this right and installed whats your thoughts?
 
SpicyMchaggis said:
hmm..how much would pistons and connecting rods cost? I thought someone on the board here had crower rods....i mean, to do this right and installed whats your thoughts?
$1350 for forged internals.
If you would like to get some more info on specs and ordering contact me via email or pm
That includes any compression ratio for the pistons, total seal rings or standard and rods with floating wrist pins.
That will solve any bottom end problem.:D
 
yeah i know this is an old thread but where can i get the 10.7:1 comp pistons? i only find the 10.4:1 the link posted does not work
 
you can order custom CR pistons.

or you can buy the 10.4cr pistons, mill the block/head, and use a thinner head gasket to up the CR. i dunno the formula or remember the link to a calculator, someone help me out. but to go from 10.4 to 10.7 you shouldn't have to mill much.
 
just boost... man

all that stuff is gonna cost you just as much as a turbo kit honetly after labor charges...

cuz it's about $800 labor just to yank the motor (according to the book)
your gonna need all new gaskets $200
plus you might as well put in an all new bearing set since the motor going to be in pieces.
and while your at it get a new water pump, timing belt, and such

good luck with your build

*lEdit* lol... didn't know how old this thread was
 
just boost... man

all that stuff is gonna cost you just as much as a turbo kit honetly after labor charges...

cuz it's about $800 labor just to yank the motor (according to the book)
your gonna need all new gaskets $200
plus you might as well put in an all new bearing set since the motor going to be in pieces.
and while your at it get a new water pump, timing belt, and such

good luck with your build

*lEdit* lol... didn't know how old this thread was


lol yeah i was just responding to Protege5 Driver
 
well the work will be done by me the motor has been apart for 2 years and if i am not mistaken for every .040"cut it raises the comp ratio 1 point i believe

the thing is how much can i mill the head without worrying of the valves kissing the pistons?
 
oh and the head gasket is reusable and so is the exhaust manifold gasket (yeah i know but hey the dealers do worse things i worked at two) but anyway i wont spend so much on gaskets since the head gasket costs about 40 and the intake cost around 12
 
yes the gaskets are reusable but why skim out on the build... those gaskets are pretty important and i would spend the little extra for some piece of mind
 

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