J&S Ultra Safeguard to be hooked up ASAP!

[PhyschoMP3]

Thanks for explainin that to me ben. and did you ever sell your turbo?

 

[big_ben]

Yeah, I sold it to a guy in Baltimore. He will be the next person to try to knock Terry off the top. He has the turbo kit to do it, he just doesn't have the timing and fuel control. But that's all that holds him back.

 

[1sty]

The sad part in all this is that I was talking to a guy that will be running twice that power on his Bike. He is expecting 500 whp at Daytona this year.

He was kind of pissed that the T4 on the bike wouldn't do over 500 hp.

By the way on his first dyno, before tuning he cracked 300 whp.

 

[LinuxRacr]

The latest..part 2

Well, my ride is running, but the retard is not working. Using a DMM, I tested the wires for the knock sensor and found that the stock sensor does not have either of the 2 wires grounded, so I cannot use one for a reference voltage. The solution will be a Bosch knock sensor placed on the block with the stock sensor. This sensor will be about $50, and will be hooked directly to the J&S.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Here are the details on the latest issue I am having:

Need unfluctiouating power to my J&S

 

[1sty]

hook into the large blue wire at the ignition harness under the steering column, its ignition power. Which means it stays hot in on or while cranking.

 

[LinuxRacr]

hook into the large blue wire at the ignition harness under the steering column, its ignition power. Which means it stays hot in on or while cranking.

Yeah, it's the Black Wire with the Blue stripe right? Shawn (Chojin) already told me to use that wire, but you just expanded on why I should. (thumb)

Thanks guys!

 

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, judging from your other post, the BIG BLUE WIRE. Gottcha!

 

[LinuxRacr]

By the way, here is what the stock knock sensor looks like:

It is just above the oil filter in close proximity with the oil pressure sensor.

My delima will be making this Bosch Sensor below co-exist with the stock one:

 

[1sty]

TEST THEM FIRST.
I don't know the wires by experience just by the cut sheet.
I don't want you to kill anyhting!

 

[LinuxRacr]

TEST THEM FIRST.
I don't know the wires by experience just by the cut sheet.
I don't want you to kill anyhting!

Mission successful! Now all I have to do is track down a good way to mount the aftermarket knock sensor.

 

[YP5 Toronto]

i'm soo loving this play by play.....keep it coming!

 

[WShade]

Mission successful! Now all I have to do is track down a good way to mount the aftermarket knock sensor.

Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules

 

[LinuxRacr]

It's official...I'm running lean. When I hit boost, I am running good and at full boost, I feel a slight bog after a few seconds, and notice that my A/F Gauge goes from running rich sharply over to the red zone.:wtf: I need to get the Knock sensor thing sorted out fast. Until then, I probably should dissconnct the wire tap to the stock knock sensor, and stay in low boost. Or I could dissconnect the J&S, but damn how time consuming.:mad: I am thinking of getting a small peice of sheet metal, and making a braket to screw down with the stock knock sensor, and then screwing the Bosch into the bracket. Until then, this sux! I call the J&S phone line, and get no answer. I only get answers to my e-mails. Terry , what do you think?

 

[nobody]

what kind of FMU r u running? 4-1, 6-1, 8-1, 10-1, or 12-1???

if u run less than 9psi of boost.. no timing retard is needed.., if u r running lean..no amount of retard will help!

All knock sensors has to be secure & bolted to the engine block, with a certain amount of torque,.. to have a correct reading..

 

[LinuxRacr]

1. The MP3's run advanced timing
2. The FMU I run is this one: http://bellengineering.net/fmu2020.html
3. If that is true about the knock sensor, I know not what I will do.
   [/list=1]

 

[nobody]

do yourself a favor, ask BEGI what ratio you FMU is?? e.g. 4-1, 6-1, 8-1, 10-1, or 12-1...
I'll let u know how much boost u could run!!!

 

[LinuxRacr]

Well, this FMU is adjustable with only a twist of a little knob. They say the FMU is good for 8 PSI, but the kit in it's current state is recommended for 6 PSI. That's what I am running now.

 

[chdesign]

Good luck with the knock sensor you do have to tap your block to get an accurate reading though.

 

[nobody]

if u turn up the ratio on the FMU, u might be about to run 8 psi, but watch the fuel pressure...the dead head pressure on the fuel system is around 85psi.......unless u run a boost-A-pump http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm than you could safely run 9-10psi

MP3 has more adv. than regular FS motors, but it is still only 9-1 comp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11