For the O.P., as to "what a turbo car needs," I would suggest the following. Keep in mind that while your engine runs at no more than 7,000 RPM's, a spooling turbo can turn at 30,000, 50,000, 80,000, and in some cases, over 100,000 RPM. (Not saying our K04 spins that fast, but some turbos do) The tolerances (clearance between metal surfaces) in the turbo are VERY tight, very precise, like a fine Swiss watch. Spin those parts at tens of thousands of RPM's, it doesn't take much strain or wear to ruin those tight tolerances. As those tightly fitted parts wear down & the spaces between them increase, the turbo becomes less efficient- oil passes thru places it's not supposed to go, causing smoke, and the impeller becomes less efficient, which causes loss of boost pressure.
1. ALL cars should be allowed to idle for at least 15-20 seconds when you start up to allow the oil pump to get oil to the top of the engine- the valve train, cams, etc. This is especially important in a turbo, as the turbo also needs that oil desperately. If you start it up & take off right away, you are putting more strain on the metal parts until the oil reaches them. For most people, the greatest damage they do to their car is at start-up, when they turn the key & go without letting the oil pump do its job first. I suggest making a habit of starting the car BEFORE you put on your seat belt, tune the radio, put your cell phone & other belongings away, etc. So that way, you can use those other tasks to distract you while the engine idles & the oil gets flowing.
1a. Even after your 15, 20, or 30 seconds of idle to let the oil pump get to work, don't take off like Speed Racer. Basically, stay out of boost until the engine reaches operating temperature, so the oil is flowing freely. Cold oil moves slowly. Let it warm up before you put any noticeable strain on the motor.
2. Cooldown. As noted before, turbocharged cars benefit greatly from a cooldown, especially after hard driving. 30-60 seconds idling in the driveway is enough most of the time. For me, when I am heading home, the 20mph, low-RPM cruise thru my neighborhood is usually sufficient cooldown. But when I am pulling into work, a shopping center, etc., I make sure to let it idle for a short while before shutting it off.
3. Oil changes. You will hear endless debate about what type (dino, synth blend, full synth) to use, what weight to use, etc. and how often to change it. OIl changes are, of course, the single most important maintenance item on any car, but again- the turbo is a fragile piece of equipment and fresh oil helps keep it in top shape. Me, I go for full synthetic 5w30 every 3500-4500 miles. But that's just me.
4. CLEAN or REPLACE your air filter often. A dirty air filter is another item that should be taken care of on all cars, but here again- the turbo benefits greatly from a clean, free-flowing air filter. If stock, replace that sucker frequently. Check it at LEAST with every oil change, and if in doubt, replace it. Cheap insurance. If you ever go aftermarket, be sure to inspect & clean any re-usable filter you may end up with frequently so the turbo can breathe easily. Dirty, clogged filters make the turbo work harder, causing premature wear.
Anyone want to add to the list? I'm at work & somewhat distracted right now...
And one more way to think of why you should downshift from 6th gear to accelerate--- think of it like riding a 10-speed bicycle. You're cruising along & decide you need to speed up pronto. It's much easier to speed up if you downshift from 10th gear to, say 8th, because the gear ratio is much more favorable- your legs have to pedal faster, but the effort isn't as great. If you try to speed up while still in 10th gear, it takes longer to get moving and you work REALLY hard to do it. Your calves may ache afterwards, too. Same with your car. And when your car has to work hard like that, engine parts are subjected to unnecessary strain, which can lead to metal fatigue & breakage/failure of parts like rods & bearings, which ain't cheap to fix or replace.
