Is this common in AWR endlinks?

[Crazee D]

You can see a major problem here.
The link body is too short. The sway bar is out of position in between the control arms.
You can see from the condition of the arm and bar that they have been regularly smashing.

 

[Crazee D]

Tried the link on the rig at the hardware store to determine what size thread.
99% sure it is 3/8-24 fine thread.

Front stock link measures aprox. 10.5" from center of top mount to center of bottom.

AWR link body just shy of 6.5"

At Summit:
$12.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HAL-XMR6
Brand:QA1 Precision Products
Product Line:QA1 Rod Ends
Part Type:Rod Ends
Part Number:HAL-XMR6
Rod End Thread Size:3/8-24 RH in.
Rod End Attachment:Male threads
Rod End Construction:3-piece
Rod End Style:Teflon lined
Jam Nut Included:No
Thread Length (in):1.250 in.
Rod End Head Bore Size:0.375 in.
Grease Fitting:No
Heat-Treated:Yes
Rod End Misalign Angle (degrees):12 degrees
Rod End Material:Chromemoly

hmmm, no Overall length showing, just thread length.

I'm leaning towards using the female end version (Summit# HAL-XFR6) and some sections of threaded rod like in sam1's setup.
Female has more material attached to the ball end, looks much sturdier.

 

[Crazee D]

Also found I have 2 shorter length AWR links 4.5"

 

[red95_240sx]

front awr endlinks dont extend longer than the OEM? is there a car that has compatible endlinks that are slightly longer?

 

[carbonkid]

sub'n...

 

[carbonkid]

Another possibility: be sure to check out the link, it has pictures!!

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4111646

 

[cvp0917]

i didnt read this entire thread, just bits and pieces, but im not sure if ppl noticed that how to not break the endlinks is to keep the sway bar parrallel to the ground. thats what the stock endlinks do they just arent very strong. if you lower your car 1" you'll need 1" longer endlinks, etc. Im currently gauging interest in custom front and rear sway bar endlinks. i customize lengths as well.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123737119

 

[blacksheepms3]

Okay I found out what I did wrong. When I adjusted the endlink last time I shortened them a good amount since the space between the mounting tab and the sway bar was not that great. What I hadn't thought of was that the sway bar was not sitting in it's neutral position so to speak. As I was driving around with this setting the sway bar was pulling down on the endlinks so it essentially tore them apart. So I redid them today and extended them so that the sway bar was sitting in neutral position. I drove it afterwards and it felt better than the first time. Mind you this is just my theory so I could be totally wrong and just talking out of my ass. I'll find out in the next couple of weeks or so. Thanks to everyone for their ideas and comments.

by neutral you mean the sway bar should be parallel to the ground right? I bought the awr end links last year. it's been sitting in my garage for more than a year and i havent installed it yet cause i'm not sure how to adjust it the right way. You thread just made me more nervous of doin it. Let me know if you finally nailed it and it didnt break anymore. thanks.

 

[blacksheepms3]

Before i posted my above post i didnt read the post above me. Yeah I think you have to adjust the endlinks to a lenght so that the sway bar is parallel to the ground when the car is sitting on it's all four wheels. Also I notice on your picture... aztec.. that the bracket on the shocks and the hole of the sway bar is not aligned in a way that the end link is perpendicular to the sway bar. So the force is exerted on the end link while the end link is slanted. I can see why it would break. Are you guys talkin about protege or speed 3? I have a speed 3 and i have bilsteins. I think it also has got to do with the shock design. Cause the bracket of bilstein is exactly where the bracket of the stock shock so there is no change in orientation. I think I'm gonna go ahead and install it next chance I get.

 

[Crazee D]

i didnt read this entire thread, just bits and pieces, but im not sure if ppl noticed that how to not break the endlinks is to keep the sway bar parrallel to the ground. thats what the stock endlinks do they just arent very strong. if you lower your car 1" you'll need 1" longer endlinks, etc.

I am not sure I understand or agree. My AWR RSB bends upwards on the ends. I don't think that is the problem or solution (being parallel to the ground).

...the bracket on the shocks and the hole of the sway bar is not aligned in a way that the end link is perpendicular to the sway bar. So the force is exerted on the end link while the end link is slanted. I can see why it would break.

Exactly. As I also stated in Posts #48, #52 and again in #60

Are you guys talkin about protege or speed 3?

You are posting in the Protege based suspension section, so...

 

[blacksheepms3]

oh i didnt know. I've been searchin for end links ms3 topic but didnt find one. i found thi though. Anybody out there with any problem with ms3 aftermarket endlinks?

 

[Crazee D]

As promised, I have 4 of these sitting next to me!

 

[bazooka joe]

those are nice D

 

[CulRidr]

Yes, yes they are

 

[Crazee D]

Link to TO thread
www.toprotege.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46274

 

[CulRidr]

You mean like the one in my sig?