You can connect more than one speaker to a single amplifier channel. The power rating is shared between the two speakers. For example, if you have a 500 watt amp and two subwoofers connected, each one will get 250 watts. They both get the same signal so the speakers will not play in stereo. There are different ways you can wire multiple speakers to get the most out of an amplifier. This is covered in the tutorials at www.jlaudio.com.
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Is this a decent system (will it all work well together)?
- Thread starter then00b
- Start date
So I want a mono amp to run a pair of speakers and a sub? Seems I would get more power from a 4-Ch amp (run the speakers off one chan each and bridge the other 2 channels for the sub)?
Also, if I was looking at the Infinity Sub I would see these specs:
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 111W x 4 @ 14.4V
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <1 %
Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 278W x 2 @ 14.4V
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 12 dB
Frequency Response: 10-100,000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: 81 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps
If Im looking at it right, each front speaker will get 111W and the sub will get 278W when bridged, correct?
Thanks.
Also, if I was looking at the Infinity Sub I would see these specs:
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 111W x 4 @ 14.4V
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <1 %
Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 278W x 2 @ 14.4V
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0 - 12 dB
Frequency Response: 10-100,000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: 81 dB
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 amps
If Im looking at it right, each front speaker will get 111W and the sub will get 278W when bridged, correct?
Thanks.
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I also just came across this:
Ebay Link to an Image Dynamics IDQ 12" Currently at $70...
Ebay Link to an Image Dynamics IDQ 12" Currently at $70...
Ebay has lots of great prices...but you don't get a warranty. When the sub blows you are SOL. There are also alot of scammers, shill bidders, teamsters, and every other type of con artist on ebay ready to take your money. Don't just research the seller, research his/her other buyers and the products they are buying. Check his/her other auctions to see if the same people are bidding. New accounts are an obvious red flag as are multiple small-increment bids in a row from the same bidder.
Then there is www.sounddomain.com. An authorized vendor that is ready to handle customer questions, returns, and warranty repairs and/or replacements.
Then there is www.sounddomain.com. An authorized vendor that is ready to handle customer questions, returns, and warranty repairs and/or replacements.
The specs look good but again, no warranty because you'd be purchasing from a non-authorized vendor. For all you know, they are buying B-Stock items in bulk and selling them as A-stock without telling the buyer. How else would they be able to cut $331 off the MSRP?
I'd rather see you purchase a used amp on ebay from someone who purchased their amp from an authorized vendor.
From my experiences, the one amp I purchased from a non-authorized vendor was a 5-channel PPI amp. After a year the sub channel just stopped working. I still have it actually...30x4 RMS or 120x2 RMS. I tried to replace it with the same model by purchasing one on ebay. That one has problems with the front left channel. Doh. Anyway, like I said. Its hit-or-miss if you don't go with an authorized vendor.
I'd rather see you purchase a used amp on ebay from someone who purchased their amp from an authorized vendor.
From my experiences, the one amp I purchased from a non-authorized vendor was a 5-channel PPI amp. After a year the sub channel just stopped working. I still have it actually...30x4 RMS or 120x2 RMS. I tried to replace it with the same model by purchasing one on ebay. That one has problems with the front left channel. Doh. Anyway, like I said. Its hit-or-miss if you don't go with an authorized vendor.
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Like usual, the website was just where I got the product info from. I wont be buying from a place online without a warranty (thats what ebay is for).
Well the recommended RMS power for the ID sub is 250 watts, how much over that do you think I could run it? I dont think 250 watts would make it too large in the SPL side would it?
Well the recommended RMS power for the ID sub is 250 watts, how much over that do you think I could run it? I dont think 250 watts would make it too large in the SPL side would it?
Well I somehow won that eBay sub for $76. I put in a bid for the heck of it and I won miraculousy...With 14 bids I was sure someone would have outbid me since I only bid $10 more than the current bid. Whatever though, hopefully itll turn out to be a good thing. I just realized that the Sub is a dual 4 ohms sub, so I need an amp now to match the sub. Thanks.
That sub is rated for 500w RMS. You could power it with 250 but it will hit much harder and cleaner with 500. But more importantly, The sub is a Dual 4ohm version. Meaning you can wire it for 2ohms or 8ohms. This will not work with any of the 4-channel amps we have been picking out because none of them are 2ohm stable when bridged.
You could purchase this amp which is about the best you can buy when it comes to 4-channel amps...
http://cgi.ebay.com/DLS-A4-Amplifier-DLS-A4-Amp-zapco-us-amps-arc_W0QQitemZ5814332079QQcategoryZ4950QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
But I highly doubt it will sell for less than $300 even on ebay.
If you are destined to buy something on ebay...start searching for these brands:
DLS, JL Audio, Zapco, XTant, Alpine, Phoenix Gold (the high end ones), and Precision Power. ... and remember research the buyer, bidders, and ask lots of questions.
You could purchase this amp which is about the best you can buy when it comes to 4-channel amps...
http://cgi.ebay.com/DLS-A4-Amplifier-DLS-A4-Amp-zapco-us-amps-arc_W0QQitemZ5814332079QQcategoryZ4950QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
But I highly doubt it will sell for less than $300 even on ebay.
If you are destined to buy something on ebay...start searching for these brands:
DLS, JL Audio, Zapco, XTant, Alpine, Phoenix Gold (the high end ones), and Precision Power. ... and remember research the buyer, bidders, and ask lots of questions.
DrooandhisES
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Its not that you can't follow that wattage, its that you will give the amp a 2ohm load (which translates to 1ohm per channel in bridged mode) unless it is designed to handle that load. If the specs do not specifically list "X watts @ 2ohms bridged" then you will fry the amp if you give it that load.
Alternatively you could buy a monoblock amp for your subwoofer that is 2ohm stable and a 2 channel amp for your front speakers. This might cost a little more than a single 4-channel amp and you will need a wiring kit designed for two amps instead of one.
Alternatively you could buy a monoblock amp for your subwoofer that is 2ohm stable and a 2 channel amp for your front speakers. This might cost a little more than a single 4-channel amp and you will need a wiring kit designed for two amps instead of one.
Nope. It's gotta say "2 ohm stable bridged" or "1 ohm stable per channel" with the exception of a monoblock amp or a 3-channel amp with a dedicated subwoofer channel.then00b said:What about the Kicker KX650.4 amp?
Purchase both of these (note the sub amp is factory renewed)
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF610AZ
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF7520A
Total: $254.90
A better option is the Kicker 3-channel amp:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC04KX5503
Total: $399.95
There isn't much out there to power a 2ohm subwoofer and a set of speakers for under $500.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF610AZ
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF7520A
Total: $254.90
A better option is the Kicker 3-channel amp:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC04KX5503
Total: $399.95
There isn't much out there to power a 2ohm subwoofer and a set of speakers for under $500.
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