Is the Transmission the Weak point for the Speed3?

if they told you missing a shift "automatically *****" the syncro, they're feeding you a line of bulls***. If this was true every standard shift car in the world would be shitting trannys out everywhere. This is certainly not my first manual tranny, and everyone misses a gear once in a while.
 
if they told you missing a shift "automatically *****" the syncro, they're feeding you a line of bulls***. If this was true every standard shift car in the world would be shitting trannys out everywhere. This is certainly not my first manual tranny, and everyone misses a gear once in a while.

I agree! Seems like Mazda knows there is a weak point in the car or possibly a quality issue and wants to sweep it under the rug.
 
LOL, that was hilarious! You do know that the forum spy is two spots above your post! Good old Speedtec works at Open Road Mazda in East Brunswick NJ. Careful he may go and tattle! (five-0)

The rat bastards will have to catch me first Ha!
 
Speedtec, I was just about to change tranny fluid and I have good experience with Royal in the crankcase. Sounds there are a couple real performance gear fluids. I know the gl-4 and 75w-90. What do you recommend? Also What is the strength of the shafts. I was wondering how long before I will have to order from the warrantied Drive Shaft Shop shafts. My new tires will be quite sticky and I hope this decreases wheelspin but of course the load shifts to other areas of drivetrain. delighted to hear a tech's report on trans strength! I figure you are probably the best person to ask, Thanks. Sorry for threadjack
 
New tranny fluids + front engine mount for the price is what i will go for on my next mods. A friend of myne did it, i tried his car and wanted those mods right away. He did those mods last weak, myself tried the car 2 night's ago, so for long therm we have no idea but for the price, and the feeling, for me that is were i'm going, and to keep my waranty working all the way.

The front mount is here http://www.turbinetech.ca/produit_detail.php?id=60&SESSID=8e371eed4844f342e970f840b9c04b4b&lang=AN
 
New tranny fluids + front engine mount for the price is what i will go for on my next mods. A friend of myne did it, i tried his car and wanted those mods right away. He did those mods last weak, myself tried the car 2 night's ago, so for long therm we have no idea but for the price, and the feeling, for me that is were i'm going, and to keep my waranty working all the way.

The front mount is here http://www.turbinetech.ca/produit_detail.php?id=60&SESSID=8e371eed4844f342e970f840b9c04b4b&lang=AN


Wow! I never heard of a front engine mount for the Speed3. I want to hear more about this before I buy it however.
 
LOL, that was hilarious! You do know that the forum spy is two spots above your post! Good old Speedtec works at Open Road Mazda in East Brunswick NJ. Careful he may go and tattle! (five-0)

HAHAHAHA.... i did work there. i currently work in nyc. believe what you want guys. i also own a car performance and accessory shop in NJ. if you need parts cheap let me know...

i was not there when darksun280 broke his car. i have had several fast cars, from drag racing, drifting, SCCA, etc. so i can simpathize with ALL of you. i currently have a '07 Tundra with a STS rear mount T4 turbo. and my warrenty is void on powertrain thanks to my local toyota dealer. if you modify a car and it breaks then you have to assume the dealer or manufacture will void your warrenty. everyone has had a friend that had something go wrong.

a friend of mine works at ray catena porsche and a carrea GT comes in with blown clutch and a coil misfire. they didnt warrenty a $125K car because it only had 15K miles and a burnt clutch.

say what you want about me. just like i have said, "you got to pay to play".
 
dude

HAHAHAHA.... i did work there. i currently work in nyc. believe what you want guys. i also own a car performance and accessory shop in NJ. if you need parts cheap let me know...

i was not there when darksun280 broke his car. i have had several fast cars, from drag racing, drifting, SCCA, etc. so i can simpathize with ALL of you. i currently have a '07 Tundra with a STS rear mount T4 turbo. and my warrenty is void on powertrain thanks to my local toyota dealer. if you modify a car and it breaks then you have to assume the dealer or manufacture will void your warrenty. everyone has had a friend that had something go wrong.

a friend of mine works at ray catena porsche and a carrea GT comes in with blown clutch and a coil misfire. they didnt warrenty a $125K car because it only had 15K miles and a burnt clutch.

say what you want about me. just like i have said, "you got to pay to play".

What tranny fluid would you reccommend Royal, Redline, or another. Seriously. and at what Horsepower rating will the shafts give? In your proffessional opinion. Since we are here any thoughts on clutch upgrades? thanks eric
 
i have had a lot of owners use royal purple or redline. i also like amsoil ($$$). any synthetic will work. just make sure if you use synthetic make sure that is all you ever use.

the tranny i have heard is good to about 500-550hp. the clutch is a dual mass flywheel. that is mazda and a lot of other manufacture's way to stop the premature tranny problems from harsh engagement. that is way your clutch pedal never really catches in the same place twice. so if you use a new clutch make sure to get a solid mass flywheel. i have always used ACT. but i would stick with a large clutch manufacture like them or clutchmasters. competition clutch was the head tech from clutchmasters and they are making a great name for themselves. i like 6 puck sprung discs because they are smooth engagement and they hold. the more pucks the longer the life and visa versa.

i believe the toothpicks (aka drive axles) are usually good for <400hp. if you take off with slicks or anything like that you need to preload the axles by holding the brake pedal or ebrake while slipping the clutch and putting a load on the hubs and axles before dropping (i mean harshly slipping) the clutch.

i use stock remanufactured axles from advanced auto parts on my vw that i drag race and it has 410whp with 26x8.5x15 MT dragslicks.
 
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i have had a lot of owners use royal purple or redline. i also like amsoil ($$$). any synthetic will work. just make sure if you use synthetic make sure that is all you ever use.

the tranny i have heard is good to about 500-550hp. the clutch is a dual mass flywheel. that is mazda and a lot of other manufacture's way to stop the premature tranny problems from harsh engagement. that is way your clutch pedal never really catches in the same place twice. so if you use a new clutch make sure to get a solid mass flywheel. i have always used ACT. but i would stick with a large clutch manufacture like them or clutchmasters. competition clutch was the head tech from clutchmasters and they are making a great name for themselves. i like 6 puck sprung discs because they are smooth engagement and they hold. the more pucks the longer the life and visa versa.

i believe the toothpicks (aka drive axles) are usually good for <400hp. if you take off with slicks or anything like that you need to preload the axles by holding the brake pedal or ebrake while slipping the clutch and putting a load on the hubs and axles before dropping (i mean harshly slipping) the clutch.

i use stock remanufactured axles from advanced auto parts on my vw that i drag race and it has 410whp with 26x8.5x15 MT dragslicks.

(lol) Careful you may get your warranty voided!
 
i have had a lot of owners use royal purple or redline. i also like amsoil ($$$). any synthetic will work. just make sure if you use synthetic make sure that is all you ever use.

the tranny i have heard is good to about 500-550hp. the clutch is a dual mass flywheel. that is mazda and a lot of other manufacture's way to stop the premature tranny problems from harsh engagement. that is way your clutch pedal never really catches in the same place twice. so if you use a new clutch make sure to get a solid mass flywheel. i have always used ACT. but i would stick with a large clutch manufacture like them or clutchmasters. competition clutch was the head tech from clutchmasters and they are making a great name for themselves. i like 6 puck sprung discs because they are smooth engagement and they hold. the more pucks the longer the life and visa versa.

i believe the toothpicks (aka drive axles) are usually good for <400hp. if you take off with slicks or anything like that you need to preload the axles by holding the brake pedal or ebrake while slipping the clutch and putting a load on the hubs and axles before dropping (i mean harshly slipping) the clutch.

i use stock remanufactured axles from advanced auto parts on my vw that i drag race and it has 410whp with 26x8.5x15 MT dragslicks.
Thanks for the info !
 
Has anyone tried using Militec-1 on their motor and trans? (www.militec-1.com) I added some to the motor and trans yesterday with the stock fluids and shifting is much improved and the engine is defintely revving more smoothly. The entire drivetrain seems run a bit quieter and smoother. Keep in mind, my MS3 only has 900 miles on thus far.
 
What?

Has anyone tried using Militec-1 on their motor and trans? (www.militec-1.com) I added some to the motor and trans yesterday with the stock fluids and shifting is much improved and the engine is defintely revving more smoothly. The entire drivetrain seems run a bit quieter and smoother. Keep in mind, my MS3 only has 900 miles on thus far.
Never heard of. interesting though. At your oil change it would be cool to get an oil analysis. Why did you choose this product, experience?
 
HAHAHAHA.... i did work there. i currently work in nyc. believe what you want guys. i also own a car performance and accessory shop in NJ. if you need parts cheap let me know...

i was not there when darksun280 broke his car. i have had several fast cars, from drag racing, drifting, SCCA, etc. so i can simpathize with ALL of you. i currently have a '07 Tundra with a STS rear mount T4 turbo. and my warrenty is void on powertrain thanks to my local toyota dealer. if you modify a car and it breaks then you have to assume the dealer or manufacture will void your warrenty. everyone has had a friend that had something go wrong.

a friend of mine works at ray catena porsche and a carrea GT comes in with blown clutch and a coil misfire. they didnt warrenty a $125K car because it only had 15K miles and a burnt clutch.

say what you want about me. just like i have said, "you got to pay to play".
You know, sometimes clutches are defective. Early failures not related to driving technique do occur from time to time. Now if it came in with bald tires and drops of burnt rubber stuck all over the wheel wells I could understand the denial. Voiding a warranty due to clutch failure @ 15k without further mitigating circumstances is a bit extreme in my eyes.
 
Wow! I never heard of a front engine mount for the Speed3. I want to hear more about this before I buy it however.

I have been searching around for something like this. I am not sure who these people are though, so more investigation is required. I was looking for a top mount too...
 
Never heard of. interesting though. At your oil change it would be cool to get an oil analysis. Why did you choose this product, experience?

Oh yeah.. I have used this product since the mid 90s. Had it in every car and motorcycle I've owned. It's not snake oil. Only problem is that it's hard to find at retail stores.
 
almost

anyone use rp syncro max in their tranny

I just made a commitment to redline. and I will tell you i thought about the purple all along. I have had great results from the motor oil, rp. Just opinion. But the forum swayed me. Is that the specific Royal upgrade for our car?
 
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