Is the Racing Beat Torsion Bar Worth the Extra $$$?

ScorpioGTX1

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2012 Mazda 2 GS M/T
Corksport Rear Torsion Bar: 1 inch thick, $100

Racing Beat Rear Torsion Bar: 1.5 inch thick, significantly longer, $190

Is the extra price worth it for the larger bar? People seem pretty happy with their CS bars though, so maybe it's unnecessary.
 
I was just looking at both of these and wondered the same. It seems like you need to go with the front sway of the same make to really compliment the rear but if you are staying with the stock front sway the corksport is the way to go for bang for your buck.

Would love to see what people that have tried one or the other say.
 
I have both the RB front and rear bars on my 2, along with Bilstein coilovers. I am planning upon trying a smaller front bar (22 mm) along with the RB rear bar to increase turn in this spring when I get a chance.

The Bilsteins seemed fairly neutral and adding the RB's seemed to move a bit towards push (my impression only) so I'm going to try the smaller front bar.

John
 
Well, wouldn't a stiffer front bar create better turn-in, but affect overall front-end grip? Going to a smaller bar will give you more front-end grip, but less turn-in response.

I was very happy with my suspension setup (before adding rear camber, and unfortunately, toe in). Stock front sway bar, CS rear torsion bar, K-Sport coils set full soft in the front, and full stiff in the rear. Rotated beautifully, could get on the power very early in corners (even on 12 year-old all seasons).. Of course, this is all street testing/driving, and not track testing.

To me, IMO, The CS bar works well enough.. you can save the $90, and buy something else for your car with that money!
 
^ Agreed. Turn-in should be quicker with more roll stiffness up front. Ultimate grip may or may not be better depending on spring rate due to dynamic camber changes. I think for most daily driven setups the corksport front bar and RB rear bar would be ideal. I only went with the corksport torsion bar since it was cheaper, especially with the combo deal.
 
I would say that they really serve different purposes. If you have stock springs or just lowering springs, CS springs included, then the CS bar should be enough. If you have the RB bar with there the balance from front to rear will be too off, unless you have the RB front bar as well.

I have eibach springs right now and a rear bar I made which is 1" steel (0.120 wall). With that bar in the rear it rotates pretty well, but there is still a little understeer on turn in. I wouldn't go any stiffer though because it would just be too much rear stiffness compared to the front. This also isn't helped by the lack of dampening in the shocks. Also if I could get it to rotate more we don't have the power to really get out of it like other FWD cars. I have driven a few FWD cars with too much oversteer and it really isn't as much fun as you would think. Plus it is slow.

Now I am going to be getting the bilstein coilovers in about a month. I am going to take my rear bar off to see what it is like with just the coils then put mine back on. I am pretty sure it will still need it. I will then move onto the RB rear bar if needed. The RB bar in the rear should be fine though since the springs in the front are stiffer along with the dampening so the balance from front to rear of the springs and bars will be better as well as the dampening. If it is too much in the rear I will then put a larger front sway on.
 
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