Installing Forge BPV...broke bolt going into manifold.

Hey everyone,
So, i was in the process of installing the forge BPV, things seemed to be going pretty swimmingly, old valve came out easy, reconnected the tubing, etc. I inserted the bottom bolt first, gave it maybe 3 quick ratchets to just hold it in place. I went to insert the top bolt, no problems, until about a 1/4 of the way through ratcheting the bolt in, the GOD DAMN BOLT SNAPS IN HALF(smash).

Of course, I panic, start screaming and throwing s***. I called my gearhead uncle to come and look. He tells me that the threads inside the manifold end were stripped. Im going tomorrow morning at 6:30 to have a guy remove the stuck bolt and re-tap the thread. He says that it shouldnt be a problem, but of course I am still bugging the F out.

I'm relatively new to modding, having only helped a friend install an intake in his STI (800whp monster, but thats for another thread). I really hope i did not do any permanent damage.

Any advice is good advice.

Good looking out.

-Ryan
 
Sounds like you were torquing the bolts down too hard. You aren't the first one I've heard of doing the same thing though. I've always used "feel" for how tight a bolt should be, and I've never stripped or snapped one yet. You might want to try a torque wrench for future installations (thumb)
 
torque wrench, mister musclely arms!

familyguybestofherbert.jpg
 
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s*** happens. i was goin through a period of changing my bov/bpv's a lot an my top bolt also tried to strip on me, but i said **** you and didnt let it happen....shes good now. (cheers) good luck
 
Happened to me on the lower bolt also. Mine was not even fully in when it snapped either. Seems as though Mazda is using some crappy bolts there. On a brighter note: the dealer fixed it free of charge and did not even notice that the BOV was aftermarket.
 
Yea, I been changing my bov in the past 3 months over and over again. Same thing happened to me just go to Mazda and they sell the bolt, it's like a few bucks.
 
i snapped the one of the 4 bolts holding my AC compressor in, the lower left one look at it from the front of that, in order to fix that, i have to pull the compressor, and in order to that, i have to pull the radiator, well according to my shop manual, in order to drill and tap into it, so right now im riding around with 3 bolts holding my compressor on haha...

your fix is easy
 
Some of you hamfisted shade tree mechanics need to be made aware itty bitty bolts like those on the BPV flange have very low torque specs.
 
So, went to my uncles boys shop, he drilled out the bolt (he said the bolts are absolute garbage and could not believe that mazda was using such low quality bolts). He rethreaded the hole (apparenty i "cold welded" the threads) and decided to use a larger gauge stud, with a titanium locking nut on the end. I like the valve, although i am hearing far less "ping" than I thought I would. I'm running the blue spring with one shim, but i think i may go to the yellow with no shims because I have no other mods completed at the time. Good idea, bad idea?
 
Long story with the intake but I had a cobb SRI, decided I wanted to go CAI. Just havent had time to reorder. BTW, I'm running blue with no shims now. Will try yellow w/ 2 later. Ill post some photos of the frankenstein studs later this weekend.
 
try blue with one. I think that is what most people are running and recommend including Patty. do a search for "forge" in the ms3 and you will find plenty
 
The bolts are very soft , I guess because they are going into aluminum? I did the same thing to the TMIC cover, bolting it back on and I like tight.. snap! So just go to firm, not tight.... like I like my ladies :) Well... Im married so...
And I had no top of the bolt sticking above and spent the next day drilling out the bolt.
Mike
 
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