Installing Exhaust manifold and Downpipe

[IggyPop]

This job was a pain in the ballz. I will post up pics soon.

 

[RunAroundNekid]

Oh man, it could not of been that hard. I've pulled off my turbo 3 times this month alone lol

 

[IggyPop]

 

[IggyPop]

 

[IggyPop]

I also installed a SLS cat less midpipe. Damn thing is leaking though where it bolts up the corksport J-pipe and the stock cat-back. So both sides. I will have to check it out again.

I have a lot more power now. I'm still getting the hesitation though. Could be the exhaust leaks. Or it could be fuel cut. I still have to install my wideband. Should know then what is going on.

 

[Signature Sound]

subbin

 

[Signature Sound]

... Also, anone know the torque specs for this job?

SNUG and then rechecked after driving for awhile. It will depend on what studs you use and if u use anti-sieze. Just make sure they seat properly. The bolt holes on the manifold are a little bigger than the bolts, so it can become misaligned with the exhaust ports on the head. I highly recommend doing a gasket match. It was so worth it on mine I had to change the fuel maps to compensate for the air flow difference!

ARP studs are not cheap but they are worth every penny in my opinion. Three of the stock bolts were completely missing on my car so I wouldn't trust them again.

Stainless is much cheaper and works just fine. Its not holding anything like rod caps or the entire head, so having something super strong is less necessary than having something that will not rust. Spend the money on something like a die grinder and poilsher instead. At least you will see the difference with that.

 

[nato]

Sub'd. I'll be installing the same version of the steedspeed this coming weekend. I was hoping I could install it without taking out the turbo and downpipe. Anybody have success with this method?

I noticed the opening on the manifold to turbo gasket doesn't quite match the steed on the sides (just by a little).. Will this be a problem?

 

[Carlinator]

Sub'd. I'll be installing the same version of the steedspeed this coming weekend. I was hoping I could install it without taking out the turbo and downpipe. Anybody have success with this method?

I noticed the opening on the manifold to turbo gasket doesn't quite match the steed on the sides (just by a little).. Will this be a problem?

Can't pull the manifold off without the rest, many have tried. The gasket should be fine as long as it seals all around.

Oh, and for anyone still curious, you should be able to get those washers through mazda.

 

[Signature Sound]

...I noticed the opening on the manifold to turbo gasket doesn't quite match the steed on the sides (just by a little).. Will this be a problem?

No, but it will make a HUGE difference if you gasket match it. I know this from how much my fuel maps had to increase after doing it. Here are some pics of FREE horsepower that can easily be done with a die grinder and a few hours time:

Right port is before and left port is after:

T3 turbine before (silver area is where gasket lined up with bolts in place)

and after (notice knife edge divider):

This made a massive impact on my low end fuel requirements. After dialed in, it was a whole new beast taking off from a stop. HIGHLY recommended.

 

[nato]

I'm convinced about gasket matching.. I just wish I had access to the equipment.

I read about someone that changed the manifold without taking everything out. Supported the downpipe from underneath with blocks, and straps on the turbo..

 

[jbrewer4639]

No, but it will make a HUGE difference if you gasket match it.

O.k just to make sure, to do gasket matching I just get a grinder of some sort and match the holes with the gasket or is this something I would have to have a shop do?

 

[Signature Sound]

O.k just to make sure, to do gasket matching I just get a grinder of some sort and match the holes with the gasket or is this something I would have to have a shop do?

Die grinder from harbor freight is $9. Time and common sense is the hard part. If u have that, you're good to go. Its so simple a caveman could do it.

 

[nato]

Is there a step by step write-up for this anywhere? I couldn't find one..

Trying to make sure I've got everything for the install:

Manifold studs
Manifold to block gasket
Steedspeed manifold
Turbo studs
Manifold to turbo gasket
Nickel anti-seize for studs(?)

Should I replace the turbo to s-pipe studs/gasket as well?

Also going to try to track down the crush washers for the coolant fittings (Part numbers?)

Changed the o-ring and gasket for the oil return line already since it was leaking
And installing a new WGA while I'm at it

Anything else?

 

[jbrewer4639]

teflon tape

 

[nato]

Teflon tape for the studs? I thought that's what the anti-seize is for.. sealing and easier disassembly.

 

[yudkib]

i used copper antiseize. also, the torque specs are in a sticky in the E/FI section for anyone interested.

for people who had missing bolts, thats a sure-fire indicator that someone removed the EM at one point, and didnt retorque to spec. mine was missing 3 bolts, but you MUST follow the specs and order, or you risk things backing out, and worse, you risk damaging the head. this isnt a 80lbf torque pattern like the crossmember bolts, its only like 12lbf then 18 -- not much more than finger-tight.

 

[IggyPop]

I would use studs for the manifold. Bolts will not fit into the lower holes on the manifold. You must use studs on them. I would just make them all studs if I were to do it again.

 

[jbrewer4639]

no not for the studs the lines for the turbo. I didn't think about anti-sieze though

 

[Patrickenator]

so overtorquing the EM to the block could cause the bolts to back out? I was missing bolts the first time i looked at it, now i'm missing 2 (and I'm sure i over-torqued it some...)