I have this fun project coming up in the next couple weeks. I have been researching threads to get as much info as I can. I plan on pulling out the turbo since this will be much easier then trying to work around it. My questions are, while I am in there is there anything else I should replace? What size bolts should I get? I want to replace all the bolts since most of them are rusty. I hear the turbo studs always break so I should probably get them too. Should I replace the wastegate while I'm in there? Any input that would help make this easier would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Installing Exhaust manifold and Downpipe
- Thread starter IggyPop
- Start date
NocturnalSpeed
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
SteedSpeed & P.E.P Install
Here is somewhat of a example. CitizenPro and I worked on installing those 2 pieces a couple weeks ago. He gives you sort of a idea of what went down.
Good luck buddy
Here is somewhat of a example. CitizenPro and I worked on installing those 2 pieces a couple weeks ago. He gives you sort of a idea of what went down.
Good luck buddy
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well if you take out the manifold and downpipe your turbo will be hanging on by your intake lol so I would assume you want to take it out. Wastegate replacement can be Forge or ATP, and that is pretty much your preference. ATP is $60 and holds 6-8 psi, Forge is over $100 I believe, but has interchangeable springs to adjust the psi.
If you want to get some studs that aren't OEM, I would suggest ARP studs. But they are very expensive FYI. The size you want to get is M8 x 1.25 in 38mm length. The 38mm's can be used for the manifold to block, manifold to turbo, and turbo to s-pipe.
If you want to get some studs that aren't OEM, I would suggest ARP studs. But they are very expensive FYI. The size you want to get is M8 x 1.25 in 38mm length. The 38mm's can be used for the manifold to block, manifold to turbo, and turbo to s-pipe.
Bluemica3.5
Member
- :
- 2003.5 mazdaspeed protege (Laser blue Mica) 2002 protege5
crossover has them in stock there 99 for the studs for manifold and 55? for the studs for turbo to manifold and dp to turbo, will be ordering these as well have the pep downpipe and mani to install,
- :
- 2017 Shelby GT350
Nocturnalspeed's link should have been directed here --> Mani & DP Install
...It would be much easier to replace the wastegate while everything is out, and I would put in all new mazda oem steel gaskets. New studs would be a plus, and a little FYI.....ARP studs are amazing! I was a little skeptical with my brother purchasing them for his install, but after getting my hands on them, they are well worth it.
...It would be much easier to replace the wastegate while everything is out, and I would put in all new mazda oem steel gaskets. New studs would be a plus, and a little FYI.....ARP studs are amazing! I was a little skeptical with my brother purchasing them for his install, but after getting my hands on them, they are well worth it.
So I can't boost over 8psi with the ATP wastegate? Is the Forge a pain to adjust and get set up?
you can boost as high as you want with any wastegate, you just cant go lower. all you need is a $15 manual boost controller.
and dont waste your money on ARP hardware on the exhaust setup, the OEM stuff has held this long, right? i dont think ive ever seen anyone break exhaust hardware under normal driving, and all the mazda stuff is grade 5 / class 8.8. you can find grade 8 / class 10.9 hardware for cheap, and thats more than sufficient if you FOLLOW THE TORQUE SPECS. im an engineer so i only want the best, but as much as i wanted to, i didnt pull the trigger on ARP stuff. and im glad i didnt.
by the way, theres eight bolts and two uneven length studs in the manifold. everything is m8 x 1.25, the exhaust bolts are... 35mm long? studs would be ~38mm. the manifold has four studs to attach the turbo, the turbo has five for the downpipe. just get generic ATP turbo studs in m8x1.25 and youll be fine. all the nuts are self-locking, and be sure to get lockwashers for the new bolts.
and dont waste your money on ARP hardware on the exhaust setup, the OEM stuff has held this long, right? i dont think ive ever seen anyone break exhaust hardware under normal driving, and all the mazda stuff is grade 5 / class 8.8. you can find grade 8 / class 10.9 hardware for cheap, and thats more than sufficient if you FOLLOW THE TORQUE SPECS. im an engineer so i only want the best, but as much as i wanted to, i didnt pull the trigger on ARP stuff. and im glad i didnt.
by the way, theres eight bolts and two uneven length studs in the manifold. everything is m8 x 1.25, the exhaust bolts are... 35mm long? studs would be ~38mm. the manifold has four studs to attach the turbo, the turbo has five for the downpipe. just get generic ATP turbo studs in m8x1.25 and youll be fine. all the nuts are self-locking, and be sure to get lockwashers for the new bolts.
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- 2017 Shelby GT350
Iggy - If you feel you want an upgrade to the stock hardware and its not out of your price range, ARP is a great option (Search the web for more than just 2 peoples opinions). Like the Chief Engineer ^ said, the stock generic hardware will most definitely work fine as well.
ARP Hardware
ARP Hardware
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Yeah I was talking with some people at work and they basically said the same thing. I will probably just order some hardware from McMaster. I don't want the bolts to rust so I was thinking of going with an anodized bolt or some other kind of coating that you would recommend for not rusting. I just installed your Vacuum block yesterday. Now I just need some more stuff to hook to it. I will be buying another boost gauge though shortly. Right now I just have a line going the wastegate and the other 3 nipples are capped off. My Blitz Dual TT/boost gauge was already 'T'ed into another line on my intake manifold. The tube on the Blitz is really small and I didn't feel like replacing that whole thing. It works fine where it's at. Anyway, so I will go with this:
Exhaust bolts - M8 x 1.25 35mm. Probably get like 24 of these with lockwashers.
Turbo and manifold studs - M8 x 1.25 38mm. I will get 12.
They shouldn't be expensive at all if I go through mcmaster carr.
Citzen - your build is going awesome, so I wouldn't settle for nothing but the best if I were you. I on the other hand, I am just a guy trying break 200hp
Ok, let me know.
OEM Catalog
GASKET,TURBINE OUTLE $25.45 $19.89 $0.00 $19.89
GASKET,CONVERTER $9.62 $7.50 $0.00 $15.00
Exhaust system, Exhaust manifold, Manifold gasket, Manifold gasket, protege, 1.8l, 2.0l $14.85 $11.58 $0.00 $11.58
O-RING $1.37 $1.07 $0.00 $1.07
STUD,EXH MANIFLD/TRB $14.10 $11.00 $0.00 $44.00
NUT $3.53 $2.76 $0.00 $13.80
GASKET,TURBINE INLET $14.50 $11.31 $0.00 $11.31
BOLT $3.93 $3.07 $0.00 $24.56
STUD $2.73 $2.13 $0.00 $4.26
GASKET,TURBINE OUTLE $25.45 $19.89 $0.00 $19.89
GASKET,CONVERTER $9.62 $7.50 $0.00 $15.00
Exhaust system, Exhaust manifold, Manifold gasket, Manifold gasket, protege, 1.8l, 2.0l $14.85 $11.58 $0.00 $11.58
O-RING $1.37 $1.07 $0.00 $1.07
STUD,EXH MANIFLD/TRB $14.10 $11.00 $0.00 $44.00
NUT $3.53 $2.76 $0.00 $13.80
GASKET,TURBINE INLET $14.50 $11.31 $0.00 $11.31
BOLT $3.93 $3.07 $0.00 $24.56
STUD $2.73 $2.13 $0.00 $4.26
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
ARP studs are not cheap but they are worth every penny in my opinion. Three of the stock bolts were completely missing on my car so I wouldn't trust them again.
If I get my new manifold in the install will be March 12th. I plan on pulling the whole turbo out since I will need to replace the S-pipe and exhaust manifold. Couple questions. Should I replace the OEM wastegate with and ATP one while I'm in there? I have 115K on the car. Anything else I should look at replacing while I have the turbo out? I picked up some new bolts and studs.
Carlinator
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
I actually just did this job back in October. One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is cooling; I highly recommend getting new crush washers for the coolant fittings on the turbo. I didn't, since none of the writeups mentioned it, and now I'm leaking coolant from the return line fitting on the turbo, and I'm not looking forward to pulling all that s*** out again. You'll want 4 total, two each for the supply and return fittings. New O-rings for the oil lines might not be a bad idea either.
Also, just be prepared, you will spend about 20 minutes on the 3 lower middle bolts holding the manifold on; there's just enough space for a 12-point box wrench to move one point. Same with the nuts holding the downpipe on the turbo.
Also, just be prepared, you will spend about 20 minutes on the 3 lower middle bolts holding the manifold on; there's just enough space for a 12-point box wrench to move one point. Same with the nuts holding the downpipe on the turbo.
Any idea of what size to get for those crush washers?
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
I did a google search and this is what I came up with for crush washers. As for what size we need IDK. Also, anone know the torque specs for this job?
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