Installing after-market subwoofer
- Thread starter fast_trip
- Start date
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
wrong section...this belongs in Car audio/electronics
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
I think 1sty is the guy to talk to, hes the audio moderator, drop him a pm
That's a very vague question, and there's soooo many things to pick at, hopefully someone'll move this, but here we go.
First off, USE THE SEARCH FEATURE. you'll get it alot, but it's true, all of the basics have been verywell covered inhere. search is your friend, you'll learn everything you need to know and some stuff you thought you didn't.
Nowthen, There's 2 camps, and I'm sure someone from the other will speak up, but capacitors are prettymuch worthless, and really only introduce some serious potential for shocking the sh!t outta yourself. IN fact, depending on the type of use, they'r elikely to just create more draw. IN the end you're paying more money to use power that you've already got.
What kind of 1500W setup are you talking about? becuase I've had a Legit 1600W setup in my car for a year now and while it IS indeed possible, 1.5KW amps aren't cheap or easy to come by, and REAL 1000w+power is ALOT. What's the RMS rating?
Also, what sub and amp do you have? Be as specific as possible. Are they compatible impedance-wise (4ohm sub with an amp that will bridge to 4ohms, etc)
As far as wiring everything, if you're TRUELY clueless it might be your best bet to simply hav eit installed, but PLEASE run searches, it's been covered time and time again. also have a look at the FAQ in the audio section. It'll save yourself and everyone else alot of time and typing.
First off, USE THE SEARCH FEATURE. you'll get it alot, but it's true, all of the basics have been verywell covered inhere. search is your friend, you'll learn everything you need to know and some stuff you thought you didn't.
Nowthen, There's 2 camps, and I'm sure someone from the other will speak up, but capacitors are prettymuch worthless, and really only introduce some serious potential for shocking the sh!t outta yourself. IN fact, depending on the type of use, they'r elikely to just create more draw. IN the end you're paying more money to use power that you've already got.
What kind of 1500W setup are you talking about? becuase I've had a Legit 1600W setup in my car for a year now and while it IS indeed possible, 1.5KW amps aren't cheap or easy to come by, and REAL 1000w+power is ALOT. What's the RMS rating?
Also, what sub and amp do you have? Be as specific as possible. Are they compatible impedance-wise (4ohm sub with an amp that will bridge to 4ohms, etc)
As far as wiring everything, if you're TRUELY clueless it might be your best bet to simply hav eit installed, but PLEASE run searches, it's been covered time and time again. also have a look at the FAQ in the audio section. It'll save yourself and everyone else alot of time and typing.
O.. being so new to this, I don't even knwo we got audio/electronic section. As for the amplifier:
500 Watts x 2 Output 1000 Watts x 1 Bridged Output Variable Hi/Lo Electronic Crossover Network Variable Bass Boost (0 - +18dB @ 60Hz) Variable Input Level (Gain) Control Remote Turn On/Off Gold Plated RCA Inputs High Level Molex Inputs Power On LED Indicator LED Protection Indicator S/N Ratio: > 95dB THD: < 0.04% Thermal Protection Overload Protection Short Circuit Protection Anti-Thump Turn-On Dimensions: 10.9 x 2.4 x 11
Speaker:
2X Comp 12" (2speaker) total peak power 1500W RMS400-750W
500 Watts x 2 Output 1000 Watts x 1 Bridged Output Variable Hi/Lo Electronic Crossover Network Variable Bass Boost (0 - +18dB @ 60Hz) Variable Input Level (Gain) Control Remote Turn On/Off Gold Plated RCA Inputs High Level Molex Inputs Power On LED Indicator LED Protection Indicator S/N Ratio: > 95dB THD: < 0.04% Thermal Protection Overload Protection Short Circuit Protection Anti-Thump Turn-On Dimensions: 10.9 x 2.4 x 11
Speaker:
2X Comp 12" (2speaker) total peak power 1500W RMS400-750W
SO the speakers are kicker comp12's yes? are they plain comps or comp VR's and what's the brand and model of the amp? I'm still quite skeptical of TRUE power being 1000w, but I could be wrong. NOwthen, are you hooking this up to your stock deck, or do you have or plan on getting an aftermarket one? either way'll work, but if it's to your stock deck, you'll want to get a LOC (Line Out Converter) Also either way 2 12's will be overpowering the rest of your music, so if you care much about clarity, you might wanna look into amping upfront as well. Eitherway I'd recommend you run bigger power wire than you need at the moment just incase you ever decide to upgrade. 4G should suffice depending on your amp's specifics (best bet is to look at what fuses it has in it, how many and what amperage) Have you searched around int the caraudio section yet? there's TONS of info there. and infact we just so happen to be rather blessed with a very knowledgeable audio crew, plenty of professional installers, etc inthere.fast_trip said:
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
why sony subs? i read about your last email that you got 10g or something, why buy sonys when you can get some nice amps and run them to a JL w7, you wont see a w7 in a protege. and with the extra cash get a badass alarm too
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
i mean from what i heard there are alot of brands of subs out there that are alot better than sony...
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
how much extra cash do you have?
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- Vivid Yellow Mp3
yeah thats plenty enough..recomend anything other than sony
i know Alpine makes nice subwoofers
Alpine Type R
Fosgate P3s (from what ive heard are good)
JL W0's
JL W3 v2s are good as well
Fosgate Hx2s (i think they stoped making them, but they are good)
all of them are under1g im sure of it, dont waste money on a sony, my opinion dont mean to start a flame war or anything
i know Alpine makes nice subwoofers
Alpine Type R
Fosgate P3s (from what ive heard are good)
JL W0's
JL W3 v2s are good as well
Fosgate Hx2s (i think they stoped making them, but they are good)
all of them are under1g im sure of it, dont waste money on a sony, my opinion dont mean to start a flame war or anything
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- 2006 Shadow Blue GLI
Wait, so you got extra cash and changed to sony? (direct) (confused)
yeah...you wont find many sony fans on here thats for sure 
. id definately recommend sticking with comp vr's over sony's. id take the extra money you got, keep the comps, and have a shop install your setup. if youd rather diy...then just go get a amp witing kit, and go for s***. its pretty much self explanitory. power wire from battery to amp, rca from hu to amp (assusming you have an aftermarket hu), remote from hu or accessory wire to amp, and speaker wire from amp to subs, and then your done. and definately scrap the capacitor idea, they're pretty much useless as far as im concerned.
. id definately recommend sticking with comp vr's over sony's. id take the extra money you got, keep the comps, and have a shop install your setup. if youd rather diy...then just go get a amp witing kit, and go for s***. its pretty much self explanitory. power wire from battery to amp, rca from hu to amp (assusming you have an aftermarket hu), remote from hu or accessory wire to amp, and speaker wire from amp to subs, and then your done. and definately scrap the capacitor idea, they're pretty much useless as far as im concerned.
