Improving intake airflow (2.5T)

How are you monitoring? I'll start using MazdaEdit soon.
Yes. I'd be happy to share logs or any additional info if you're curious. Not the best software, but I'm happy with the performance. I expect acceleration on my NA tuned 6 to be very similar to your turbo cx-5 with the tune.

It was a gradual process of the tuner adding small amounts of timing to my WOT pulls. it can be tricky to get logs with no timing being pulled. Wobbly engine mounts, bumps, whatever. I usually have to let off before 5500rpm. Coincidentally, it seems that I let go of the pinned throttle by instinct around the same time the ecu chooses to pull one degree of timing.

It's rare to have the car at WOT under ideal scenarios, where I can get it to it's rev limiter while performing as per my expectations.
 
Again, this is false. There is no difference beyond measurement units. 95 Ron in Germany is 91 AKI/Octance in the US. 98 Ron in Europe is 93 Octance at pumps in the US.
Let's agree to disagree then.
 
Edit
Yes. I'd be happy to share logs or any additional info if you're curious. Not the best software, but I'm happy with the performance. I expect acceleration on my NA tuned 6 to be very similar to your turbo cx-5 with the tune.
You're making at least 300 lb ft of torque NA?? :unsure:
 
2023 CX-5 2.5T AWD 3728 - 3867lbs 256hp/320tq 15lb/hp
2015 CX-5 2.5NA AWD 3560lbs - 184hp/185tq 19lb/hp
:unsure:

Anyway, After owning a 19' Rav4 with a 2.5l NA 205hp/184tq on 87oct (shame Mazdas need a tune to reach this...no like really wtf) and 8-speed transmission. The 310-320lb of turbo tq blows it out of the water even with the fall off at 4500rpm.
 
2023 CX-5 2.5T AWD 3728 - 3867lbs 256hp/320tq 15lb/hp
2015 CX-5 2.5NA AWD 3560lbs - 184hp/185tq 19lb/hp
:unsure:

Anyway, After owning a 19' Rav4 with a 2.5l NA 205hp/184tq on 87oct (shame Mazdas need a tune to reach this...no like really wtf) and 8-speed transmission. The 310-320lb of turbo tq blows it out of the water even with the fall off at 4500rpm.
I have a 2015 Mazda 6 FWD. About 3220 lb. Tuned, close to 6.5sec to 60, 15 sec through quarter mile.
 
No. I'm just 600lb lighter. :)
I see what you're getting at, but it's going to take more weight reduction or more power than that to equalize the two I'm afraid. And that's not even considering the fact that the AWD car is going to launch better.

Anyway, let's get back on topic.
 
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To be fair, the intake mod would apply to nearly all current Mazda turbo cars. I didn't intend this thread to be only about the CX-5.
 
Oh! My mistake, I didn't realize you owned a completely different model than the forum was about.

Can hardly say "completely" different, when were talking about literally the same car, just without a turbo, in a different body.
 
I see what you're getting at, but it's going to take more weight reduction or more power than that to equalize the two I'm afraid. And that's not even considering the fact that the AWD car is going to launch better.

Anyway, let's get back on topic.

The acceleration times are the same. 🙂
 
I've been testing my 2.5l turbo air box with a differential pressure gauge, "filter minder". I found that the inlet to the air filter box is undersized at WOT. As far as DD it works just fine. The main benefit of the filter minder, it accurately tells one when it's time to change the air filter.

We experience this same issue on a 5.9l turbo Cummins. The air box inlet is too small at high engine loads we experience when towing. We solved this by adding an additional air inlet in the DAP, dirty air plenum. After adding this mod, we noticed loss of low end torque but plenty of air at high engine load and +20 psi. I solved this by adding a backflow damper to the second air inlet. The damper acts like a variable runner inlet seen on newer gas burners. It partially opens depending on the engine load. Low end torque came back and it meters air base on engine load.

I've ordered a DAP for our CX5 so I can find a place to add another air inlet with backflow damper.

My tests showed a pressure drop nearly 14" wc at WOT. Without the air filter it had 10" wc pressure drop. This rules out the filter. I'm NOT running out and adding an aftermarket CAI and sacrifice dust free air.

It would help our data base if a NA guy installed a filter minder and ran a few tests.

I've been working with DRtuned, tuning the 2.5l turbo on 93 oct. We still get some KC at WOT. David is not to concerned with a small amount of KC. I've run some old school tests with new spark plugs, made a WOT, pulled the plug and read them. They don't show any signs of knock even though the log showed -1.5 degrees. It also gives us information on timing and fueling. Over on old school EFI V8s, as long knock is under 2 degrees we don't worry about it.

I buy our 93 oct and diesel at a high volume 128 pump station close by. It's next to Barber Motorsports. I often see track cars filling up before heading to the track.

https://barberracingevents.com/

I installed a smooth wall 3.25" to 2.5" 90 deg adaptor. I'll run an A to B comparison over the OEM and report. Then run a test with a short turning metal vane in the smooth wall fitting. Back to the CTD, we picked up power and FE in the partial throttle area. I have not tested at WOT. I don't do anymore wot tests on the truck after killing a trans. The trans had 230k mi and the wot tests finished it off. My plan is to stay out of WOT after completing tuning with DRtuned as well.

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/2024-cx-5-turbo-air-filter-box-test-yikes.123881544/#post-6805887

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/turni...no-results-2024-cx-5t.123881560/#post-6805948

0712241808.jpg
 
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I've been working with DRtuned, tuning the 2.5l turbo on 93 oct. We still get some KC at WOT. David is not too concerned with a small amount of KC. I've run some old school tests with new spark plugs, made a WOT, pulled the plug and read them. They don't show any signs of knock even though the log showed -1.5 degrees.
Do you think the ECU is picking up false knock? Could be KC unrelated to what's occurring in the combustion chamber?

I suspect that the ECU is clinging onto its 87 octane roots as some conservative safety mechanism when it does this.
 
That is because the engine is handicapped by the 87 octane friendly tune.

While this is true, these engines are still carefully designed around low to mid-range torque.

@N7turbo, I am politely wondering, if you are happy with your car. You often talk about changing something on your CX-5. Do you enjoy it's handling and acceleration?
 
Do you think the ECU is picking up false knock? Could be KC unrelated to what's occurring in the combustion chamber?

I suspect that the ECU is clinging onto its 87 octane roots as some conservative safety mechanism when it does this.
DRtuned specifies ONLY running 93 oct fuel. My experience tuning none Skyactive cars, when running lower octane, we run lower timing and compression. I have not compared OEM log to my tuned logs to see how much David increased timing and boost. My first conversation with David, he said they changed many things, including timing and boost.

It could be false knock from a crack in the road, the suspension or exhaust. Again, back on my Hemi V8 EFI tuning, we saw false knock from an aftermarket exhaust pipe touching the frame, something loose or the diff. I have a many hours chasing down and correcting false knock.

After I satisfied my tuner we had eliminated mechanical items causing false knock, he reduced the sensitivity of the knock sensors. As we went along and read spark plugs to the tunes he turned the knock sensor off.

As an aside, the Hemi knock sensors are tuned at the factory for a stock engine/exhaust. We change the engine displacement, cam, intake and throttle body. We ditched the factory exhaust for headers and larger diameter, high flow exhaust. These items changed the frequency of knock detection. In the end, we relied on reading the plugs, looking for knock. We couldn't hear knock over the exhaust noise. For these reasons, I have used a new spark plug, ran a WOT and stopped ASAP. Then replaced the plug so I could look at the plug under a magnified glass, looking for specs off the pistons from detonation or knock. Also we can see fueling and timing at higher load and RPM.

Even if my tuner doesn't use this information, it's a second look of what is going on in the combustion chamber. If I saw something, I would flag the tuner. So far he has been tuning on the conservative side. I like that in my DD. Racing, looking for max effort power, we tune to the aggressive side and use spark plug reading to confirm the electronics. Today, we use 8 ECT sensors monitoring the health of each cylinder. If one hole runs lean, high EGT, the software removes all the timing from the engine and alarms the driver.

Word of caution, tuners do not fix an engine his tune damaged. His reputation will suffer but that is the extent. I have personal experience with an expensive NEW race engine that last less than 10 minuets before it lost compression and started smoking. The engine ran very lean on E85 and melted several pistons. Needless to say I was unhappy.

Consider working with a tuner who has experience with DD 2.5l engines. Review the logs you send to the tuner, looking a KC, timing, boost, ect. Final check is reading a plug once or twice. The tuners is getting info after the combustion event and an average AF value. IF one injector is running lean, he most likely will not detect it.....as me how I KNOW. Our 2.5l plugs are easy to get to and it only takes 5 minuets to swap out.
 
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DRtuned specifies ONLY running 93 oct fuel. My experience tuning none Skyactive cars, when running lower octane, we run lower timing and compression. I have not compared OEM log to my tuned logs to see how much David increased timing and boost. My first conversation with David, he said they changed many things, including timing and boost.

It could be false knock from a crack in the road, the suspension or exhaust. Again, back on my Hemi V8 EFI tuning, we saw false knock from an aftermarket exhaust pipe touching the frame, something loose or the diff. I have a many hours chasing down and correcting false knock.

After I satisfied my tuner we had eliminated mechanical items causing false knock, he reduced the sensitivity of the knock sensors. As we went along and read spark plugs to the tunes he turned the knock sensor off.

As an aside, the Hemi knock sensors are tuned at the factory for a stock engine/exhaust. We change the engine displacement, cam, intake and throttle body. We ditched the factory exhaust for headers and larger diameter, high flow exhaust. These items changed the frequency of knock detection. In the end, we relied on reading the plugs, looking for knock. We couldn't hear knock over the exhaust noise. For these reasons, I have used a new spark plug, ran a WOT and stopped ASAP. Then replaced the plug so I could look at the plug under a magnified glass, looking for specs off the pistons from detonation or knock. Also we can see fueling and timing at higher load and RPM.

Even if my tuner doesn't use this information, it's a second look of what is going on in the combustion chamber. If I saw something, I would flag the tuner. So far he has been tuning on the conservative side. I like that in my DD. Racing, looking for max effort power, we tune to the aggressive side and use spark plug reading to confirm the electronics. Today, we use 8 ECT sensors monitoring the health of each cylinder. If one hole runs lean, high EGT, the software removes all the timing from the engine and alarms the driver.

Word of caution, the tuner do not fix an engine his tune damaged. His reputation will suffer but that is the extent. I have personal experience with an expensive NEW race engine that last less than 10 minuets before it lost compression and started smoking. The engine ran very lean on E85 and melted several pistons. Needless to say I was unhappy.

Consider working with a tuner who has experience with DD 2.5l engines. Review the logs you send to the tuner, looking a KC, timing, boost, ect. Final check is reading a plug once or twice. The tuners is getting info after the combustion event and an average AF value. IF one injector is running lean, he most likely will not detect it.....as me how I KNOW. Our 2.5l plugs are easy to get to and it only takes 5 minuets to swap out.

If I sent you pictures of my spark plugs, would you be able to deduce any valuable information regarding engine health on my 300k km plus NA 2.5, such as knock events?

Would knock strategy be significantly thrown off with a lightly modified exhaust such as custom midpipe? Daniel at DRTuned never mentioned it. He said that a higher flowing exhaust is effective in helping him optimize his tuning strategy.

What AFR and ignition timing are you seeing with your turbo at WOT, and at which RPM do you let off?
 
If I sent you pictures of my spark plugs, would you be able to deduce any valuable information regarding engine health on my 300k km plus NA 2.5, such as knock events?

Would knock strategy be significantly thrown off with a lightly modified exhaust such as custom midpipe? Daniel at DRTuned never mentioned it. He said that a higher flowing exhaust is effective in helping him optimize his tuning strategy.

What AFR and ignition timing are you seeing with your turbo at WOT, and at which RPM do you let off?
Are you willing to purchase new spark plugs to test? Further willing to swap in a new plug and stop, make a wot pull and swap in the old plug on the side of the road?

If so I will do my best to help.

I'm new to tuning Mazdas. I would follow David's advice on exhaust mods vs knock. Since there are not that many exhaust suppliers, he might have a handle on how much the exhaust changes KC. Hot roders have a wide selection of exhaust options and then mod what they bought.

Warning, do not use impact tools to speed up this removing the plug. I have a few bloody T shirts from impact tools on aluminum threads. I've bought cheap old school speed wrenches for engine work. I did a practice plug removal at home to be sure I had everything when on the side of the road.

A whole other subject, the condition of your engine management sensors, map, MAF, O2 and such will throw off your tune. Many a tuner tunes around sensors that feed incorrect data to the Ecu. Yes, I've been there, done that too. Wasted time and money. For example, as the O2 sensors age, the tell the Ecu it's running Lee . So Ecu adds more than is required and so forth.

Part of our sause why we hold the NA gen3 Hemi record is attention to details like fresh sensors and the right plug. The old computer story, junk in equals junk out...

If you seriously want the best power and FE start
tuning with new, Mazda or equal, not eBay or parts store junk, sensors and spark plugs. I've got war stores about this too but will not bore you.
 
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