I want at least 130 rwhp

I actually am familiar with this setup that you are talking about install. For the honda/acura apps. racing sports akimoto uses the "velocity stack" system, and it works pretty damn well.
 
Yeah I know of some production setups that do similar things...Honda also has access to the AEM V2 things or whatever don't they? I read a little about them doing some kind of progressive diameter stuff, but quit reading when I found out there where no plans for proteges as of now...

One thing to remember is that a lot of production designs are R&D'd very quickly, and more focus is put on them being aestheticly pleasing...Thats fine for show, but if I was trying to squeeze as much NA as possible, the intake in the end probably will look pretty plain...Most systems are made of aluminum, which is pretty decent (decent in terms of being low) as far as specific heat capacity when compared to some other metals...But a fiberglass or carbon fiber system would be much less prone to heat soak then any metal we have readily available...

Familia323, I will be playing with the diameters this summer...When my other engine gets plopped in, that will be basically be the last custom mod I will need to complete for now...I have some friends that are pretty good at hand laying carbon fiber, at least at getting the shape (haven't learned the techniques to keep it even and cool looking yet, so not expecting a hood or anything)...I will probably try that first, and try a before and after dyno when I get more cash...
 
cool sounds like a plan.. keep me posted on the nitty gritty...before i heard about this tapered intake business I was going to use the foglight hole on the drivers side to suck up more air .. but now maybe with the two combined that might make for a powerful intake...hmmm
 
Yeah if you try that let me know...I thought about it too, but never looked to close to see how hard it would be to plumb some piping down in there...I gave up when I saw the yellow overlays for the foglights (my P5 is black), and at that point I did not want to remove any of them...
 
Installshield 2 said:
hey hey hey, I said that didn't I?...can't remember...But as far as the FS, I forget the exact diameter, but its perfectly fine diameter wise for now unless you really really increase the redline...I have some CFM specs on mine for roughly 8000 rpm, and it was not strangling anything too bad...A slightly bored one would probably produce a few more peak whp, but with it tuned for highend so much to begin with; it would definately hurt lowend significantly...

Also the problem is the stock MAF is only slightly larger than the TB from what i remember...You would almost have to increase the MAF size significantly to get the tapered intake diameter I was mentioning, which will increase intake velocity extremely well...and benefit the entire revband...and if you didn't change the MAf size, you would just be strangling the intake at the MAf housing, rather than at the TB...comes out to be almost the same thing...with even more turbulence problems...
Click to expand...
You are right about the MAF needing to be slightly bigger than the TB, not just for flow (the tb's throttle plate usually cuts down on that in comparison to the MAF), but for good velocity.
 
PR5Matt said:
What do you think of the first round of mods?

AWR Long tube
Unorthodox UDP
CAI
Corksport Exhaust
No cats
Cam gears

Second round:

Modified intake manifold
Wagner stg. II cams or J-Spec intake and Mazdaspeed exhaust
Corksport Throttle body
Click to expand...
Some form of Em would be my first suggestion. I've heard talk that if you find the right mazda dealer they can retune the factory ECU to do about anything you want. This in combination with an intake, TB, full 2.25-2.5" exhuast shoudl get you in the ball park if not over it. Em is the key though.

I'd aviod the cams and also a header. Stick with the factory header its flows fine, or atleast no one has been able to prove it doesn't yet. Its the Cats that need to go. Have an exhuast made to start after the factory header with a single 2.5" high flow Cat and you should be good to go.
 
You might need to be friends witha mazda tech before they'll do it. However, something like the MPI tuner might be usable aswell. The MP3 reflach added almost nothing. At most it was 2 degrees of timing. YOur going to need something a little more adjustable. I know that the AEM was under construction for NA applications but thats basicly a dead issue at this point.

THere are a few other companies developing products but they seem to be turbo oriented.
 
I've heard of the MPI tuner. Wher do I get info? BTW, my wife bought her MP5 and paid cash, then I bought one (traded in the fOCUS which the got a shitload for on re-sale [and gave me a bunch for too]), plus she really flirts with the service guys. They love us and might do it.

I am thinking of going SDS some day.
http://www.sdsefi.com/
 
The vendor and most knowledgable person for the MPI tuner is MPInick.
He would be the one to talk to. His shop is Modern Perfomance in New Jersey.
Talking to him on the phone or via direct email tend to be the best meathod with him from what I am told.
 
1sty said:
I'd aviod the cams and also a header. Stick with the factory header its flows fine, or atleast no one has been able to prove it doesn't yet. Its the Cats that need to go. Have an exhuast made to start after the factory header with a single 2.5" high flow Cat and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...
Disagree with this. Even replacing just the header with a shorty (wagner, other custom jobs etc) has shown at least 7whp gains. A full header that replaces the first cat (AWR, OBX) has shown 10-11whp gains. Racing Beat also mentioned on their MP3 project page that the stock header and cat location sucked.

Also, cams are going to be important as well. The name of the game is getting your engine to breathe well, and the right set of cams will help that.

Totally agree on the EM though. I plan on doing my IHE+cams setup with an MPI tuner this summer. Should be interesting.

Chris
 
Definitly, a HUGE difference there with a shorty header alone... My car drives totally differently with the stock manifold off of there, not as jerky, pulls a lot harder through the whole range, and actually accelerates past 5 - 5.5k, due to the longer, more open primaries.

The ECU/EMS thing is very important, though.
 
Last edited:
as soon as i get the cash i'll be getting the obx header, random tech high flow cat, and a unorthodox racing underdrive pulley. i'll have it dynoed after that and see what happens if by going what other people have shown in gains for the header(10-11whp) and then even at the least 3 or 4 from the pulley i should be anywhere from 125-135 :)
 
DooMer_MP3 said:
Disagree with this. Even replacing just the header with a shorty (wagner, other custom jobs etc) has shown at least 7whp gains. A full header that replaces the first cat (AWR, OBX) has shown 10-11whp gains. Racing Beat also mentioned on their MP3 project page that the stock header and cat location sucked.
Click to expand...
Link to dynos please? I must have missed it. However I would go with a full header or nothing.

DooMer_MP3 said:
Also, cams are going to be important as well. The name of the game is getting your engine to breathe well, and the right set of cams will help that.
Click to expand...
Agreed but I think he can aviod them for the 130 mark so long as EM is involved.
 
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