I want at least 130 rwhp

[Gen1GT]

dynapuck where they take your rims off.
i have wagner shorty headers a sai an axel back and thats all that would make a diff. i mean a kartboy shifter and short ant isnt going to change anything.

btw it say it very clearly on the dyno chart what it was done on

I'm lookin around, and I don't see your dyno chart.

The dynapuck does seem to rate higher, since you take away the rotational inertia of the wheels. We can really compare numbers anyways, unless we're all on the EXACT same dyno. Although from Dynojet to Dynojet, the results are usually within 1%. You get good repeatability.

 

[mp5smuggler]

the link is on the first page

 

[mp3moose]

I should probably get dynoed to see what the pistons make. I would suggest you get an mp3 ecu instead of aftermarket. A lot cheaper and no tuning required.

 

[shinzen]

Good point on the mp3 ecu, for those that haven't been around for awhile, that leans out the A/F and advances the timing (10 degrees, correct me if I am wrong) finer tuning is available with piggy-backs or standalones, but if you don't like messing with that stuff, that would not be a bad route to go. I wonder however how it would handle some 12:1 pistons and other more extreme mods.

 

[batmang]

im currently in the works of trying to get an mp3 ecu myself. i just hate knowing i gotta run premium, doh!

 

[mp3moose]

im currently in the works of trying to get an mp3 ecu myself. i just hate knowing i gotta run premium, doh!

Its not too bad.....gives you better gas mileage on the highway. Not the best for city however.

 

[shinzen]

That would be another benifit to piggy-back- have another map for crappy gas!

 

[akhilleus]

the magnaflows are cheap crap. imo i would say invest in a nice muffler and have a catback made. Also regarding the noise i think a hi-flow cat and resonator would be just fine. Mod wise that combo should get u to 130whp no problem. As long as u address the important aspects of the vehicle u could have that power w/o ems.
personally i dont think its worth waiting for the stage II cams at this point.... who knows how long untilt hey are available. Custom cams all the way. Dont even waste your money on the mazdaspeed exhaust cam...jdm intake isnt great either but if u were to choose get the jdm and make a cutom exhaust cam. I really believe the exhaust cam is the spot that needs the most work. If u need cam spec suggestions i could point u in the right direction.

 

[shinzen]

I am thinking the same as you on the stage II cams after finally reading through the thread on perf- custom cams are definitely the way to go- I don't own the magnaflow, so I can only speculate, but the diameter seems right, whether or not it holds up is another issue.

 

[Iconoclast]

your only about 35-40 horses away from that stock, no offense but if you know anything bout cars, it shouldnt be too hard...

intake
throttle body
wrapped heder
full pipes from the heder(go custom)
fuel pump
battery and ground kit
plugs/wires/distibutor/coil
flywheel
pulley
remap the air to fuel

this will add the hp, now to maintain it (keep it contsant), upgrade your fluids (oil, gas), get a short throw, and toss anything out you wont need (lighten her up) i would also recomend a oil catch tank and guages for the ATF and fuel pressure.

these changes will work on almost any car for that amount of hp-specially since these are the most common aftermarket parts and you can do most of the replacments your self, if thats all you want. plus you could add another 40 with the good ol laughing gas, opening up the head and adding cams can get pricey, and if your gonna do that go all the way, piston,rods, ect.

 

[Gen1GT]

your only about 35-40 horses away from that stock, no offense but if you know anything bout cars, it shouldnt be too hard...

intake
throttle body
wrapped heder-or ceramic coated
full pipes from the heder(go custom)
fuel pump-why?
battery and ground kit-waste of money if it's not an issue
plugs/wires/distibutor/coil-huh? distributor? leave everything stock unless needed
flywheel
pulley
remap the air to fuel-ya, lets have a 'remap the air to fuel day' since it so easy

this will add the hp, now to maintain it (keep it contsant), upgrade your fluids (oil, gas), get a short throw, and toss anything out you wont need (lighten her up) i would also recomend a oil catch tank and guages for the ATF and fuel pressure.

these changes will work on almost any car for that amount of hp-specially since these are the most common aftermarket parts and you can do most of the replacments your self, if thats all you want. plus you could add another 40 with the good ol laughing gas, opening up the head and adding cams can get pricey, and if your gonna do that go all the way, piston,rods, ect.

No offense man, but you should read a bit more in the NA section. These guys all know their s***, and these aren't questions with easy answers. It seems to me, that you need to update your knowledge base on what makes hp. Here's a hint. Ignition systems are worthless, unless your stock system is a liability. As it sits, plugs, wires, coil and ESPECIALLY distributor(I think the FS-DE needs more work on the flux capacitor and rotator splint before you work on the FS distributor), are the last thing on the list....

 

[Iconoclast]

fuel pump= more air in means need of more fuel

batt and ground= i have to explain?, you shoundnt ask
dist plugs, ect-see above

remap the ATF-didnt say do it yourself or it would be easy,

i think he posted this thread for help, not to hear from an ass.

i dont need to read s***, when other changes are made on a NA motor previous changes themselves have bump as well, you need to know which affect which. and i know the other guys in that thread know thier s***-maybe you should follow your own advice

 

[Gen1GT]

fuel pump= more air in means need of more fuel

batt and ground= i have to explain?, you shoundnt ask
dist plugs, ect-see above

remap the ATF-didnt say do it yourself or it would be easy,

i think he posted this thread for help, not to hear from an ass.

i dont need to read s***, when other changes are made on a NA motor previous changes themselves have bump as well, you need to know which affect which. and i know the other guys in that thread know thier s***-maybe you should follow your own advice

LOL.... Stock fuel pump will flow PLENTY enough fuel for 130whp. How about you focus on INJECTORS if anything. Battery and ground? Do the 3rd Gens have a misfire problem that I'm not aware of? If not, then why would you need a new battery, ground, plugwires or coil? And here's a little heads up. FS-DE doesn't have a distributor. Apparently you DO need to read s***.....

 

[Replica]

I'm confused, ground wires don't do anything. And a fuel pump is a HUGE waste of money for 130whp. Yeah, no dizzy on a 3rd gen, sorry. Flywheel will not add power....at all.

 

[PR5Matt]

I just purchase a Long tube and a Magnaflow cat back. I'll make my own mid-pipe. I have owned Magnaflow before and had no problems. They are just loud with a long tube. My mid pipe will have a resonator.

 

[Familia323]

sweet... let us know what you think when you get it all installed. Oh and I want to see your midpipe when you are done.

 

[PR5Matt]

sweet... let us know what you think when you get it all installed. Oh and I want to see your midpipe when you are done.

It I'll be a couple of weeks, but I will post pics.

 

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

your only about 35-40 horses away from that stock, no offense but if you know anything bout cars, it shouldnt be too hard...

intake
throttle body
wrapped heder
full pipes from the heder(go custom)
fuel pump
battery and ground kit
plugs/wires/distibutor/coil
flywheel
pulley
remap the air to fuel

this will add the hp, now to maintain it (keep it contsant), upgrade your fluids (oil, gas), get a short throw, and toss anything out you wont need (lighten her up) i would also recomend a oil catch tank and guages for the ATF and fuel pressure.

these changes will work on almost any car for that amount of hp-specially since these are the most common aftermarket parts and you can do most of the replacments your self, if thats all you want. plus you could add another 40 with the good ol laughing gas, opening up the head and adding cams can get pricey, and if your gonna do that go all the way, piston,rods, ect.

im not even positive its that hard, considering im only 12whp away with just intake/exhaust/plugs/wires

 

[PR5Matt]

fuel pump= more air in means need of more fuel

batt and ground= i have to explain?, you shoundnt ask
dist plugs, ect-see above

remap the ATF-didnt say do it yourself or it would be easy,

i think he posted this thread for help, not to hear from an ass.

i dont need to read s***, when other changes are made on a NA motor previous changes themselves have bump as well, you need to know which affect which. and i know the other guys in that thread know thier s***-maybe you should follow your own advice

The mods don't really add on one another. If that were true, we would all be running 200whp. You have a give and take between mods. BTW, If you think I don't know what I am doing, then come to WV where I can embarass you with my cars, or to make it fairer how about my brother-in-law's Merkur?

You need to go back to adding horsepower the ricer way...with stickers!

 

[batmang]

The mods don't really add on one another. If that were true, we would all be running 200whp. You have a give and take between mods. BTW, If you think I don't know what I am doing, then come to WV where I can embarass you with my cars, or to make it fairer how about my brother-in-law's Merkur?

You need to go back to adding horsepower the ricer way...with stickers!

OoOooooOOOOooOOoOOOOooooOooo!!!! (owned)