I got jooked again!

Well folks I got jooked again, but this time at avante mazda up by elgin mills. The best price he could give me was $28,900 on the road. That is a 2003 Silver P5 fully loaded, thats a/c, moonroof, leather with polished rims cd etc. To me that is still a bit much. IF anyone else in this forum has the same car, please let me know what you guys paid. I am beginning to hate these dealers...*sigh* waste my time...:(
 
Okay. This is what you do. Go check out consumerreports.org and spend the $10 or so dollars and get a full break down of what dealers pay. Get you price in order and start contacting your dealers. Also check out Mazda.com cause they have a list of the cars each dealer has and their price. I negotiated my walk out the door price with a fleet manager via email. Never once walked into the dealer. Good luck!!
 
Talk to Greg at Ajax Mazda. For an extra 1,000 you could be driving the 'Speed that's sitting in their showroom!
I ordered my new P5 today (':D')(Silver, a/c and roof - this time it'a a stick) and he's been great to deal with!
 
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well I can say that I am currently dealing with a sales manager via email. The price he gave me is almost $2000 better then the quote I got from being at the dealership. :wtf: is that...*sigh* If I am unable to better this email offer then I will going with that deal. I do like the msp also. My gf cant drive stick, thats why I am going with the auto P5...:D
 
29K? whats that in US$

I paid $17667(us) for mine (abs/moonroof/leather) not including the $500 student advantage and taxes/registration/etc...

Don't deal in "on the road" prices...only work with "price of the car" or "invoice" prices and don't let them trick you into adding the destination afterwards...destination is part of the price.

Invoice on mine was $17167 so I paid exactly invoice after the student advantage was calculated in.
 
Mugen:

Forget the consumerreports stuff.

Go to edmunds.com, click new cars, click mazda, click Protege5,a dn price the options.

Or, roadandtrack.com, click buyers guide, and continue answering.
 
edmunds.com does the invoice and MSRP for everything, down to each option.

I went in with the checklist and paid "invoice" for every inch of the car.

Their prices are ~$1 off of what's literally in mazda's computer system for pricing, plus its free. Can't beat that
 
Edmond's - consumerrports, etc...

They all work. As I too only payed dealer cost.
 
A *very* good site to check out if you're going to be buying a car is www.carbuyingtips.com - it's got all the info anyone buying a car should know before they go to the dealer. It'll help you with everything about knowing what a fair price is. Get the little spreadsheet he has on there - it's great.


Patrick
 
Thrax - It should be relatively close, though. I can't see it being a US$3000-4000 difference between a US P5 and a Canadian P5.
He's talking on the order of US$21K, and we pay, on average, under US$18-18.5K.


(laserp5)
 
The overriding theme here is to go in armed with as much information as possible.

These days consumers have a tremendous advantage of being able to find almost anything on the Internet, including invoice costs of the cars and all options.

Do NOT let the dealer fool you into thinking they are losing money by selling a car at invoice either.

If they even mention MSRP or try to use it as a basis for the price you pay, walk away.

If possible, get a quote over the phone and hold them to it. Get the name of the person giving you the quote. If they won't honor it, tell them you're headed over to the BBB office.

Above all else, do not negociate anything but the price of the car first. Some dealerships love to start working finance deals together before you even settle on the price of the car - and this allows them to work all kinds of hidden costs into the finance package that you practically have to be lawyer to detect.

1) Negociate the price of the car.
2) Negociate your trade, if you have one.
3) Negociate the interest rate on your loan, which should be the price of the car minus your trade and down payment.

If you walk in with a $2000 down payment, don't expect the dealer to subtract that amount from the price of the car. Most finance companies won't allow you to finance tax, title, and license fees... so your down payment will actually be what you have left after you pay all that mishmash.

Hope this helps.
 
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