i dream of 20 psi

sound like someone that has no idea what your talking about. im glad you have money and im sure talking like your tlaking someone will take it from you.

heres your list.
contact MAM about thier thumper kit tell them you got the cash and you want it asap and you want aem and everything to tune it. you want to cryo the ttranny and a msp lsd. Also you want better axels to hold that power. bigger injectors and fuel pump (could be in the kit). Also talk to MAM about oliver billets rods, cp pistions. go ahead since you have the money and just send the car to his shop and youll be all set.

**************************.com is the sight and the number is on there.

hope to see it acutally happen. but most n00b talk of 20 psi when they look to turbo.
 
anarchistchiken said:
Yeah dino, but you're not going all out on some pointless mission to get a PSI number. You're just makin a badass, fast car that still handles like a gnraly beast. He's just tryin to make a trailer queen 1/4 racer out of a 2.0 FS-DE. I dont really get it, but its your money man.
NO!
Pretty much this guy is a dumb ass and anyone that beleives the BS that he is talkin...I wish I could personally smack the **** in the mouth!
Matt
 
The thumper kit will be extremely bad@$$ when all is said and done!!! :)
Beau will need a couple months to finalize everything he wants to do for it:
Once he catches up on his orders he will be knifing my car to design it up. Once that phase is complete, I will be driving it quite a bit to work out any bugs (leaks, ecu problems, etc). After that, it will be jigged and ready for production...
 
mang, 20psi is so arbitrary...

think of turbo size, track times, car weight etc and then find a FI route that will lead you there.
 
ForceFed said:
NO!
Pretty much this guy is a dumb ass and anyone that beleives the BS that he is talkin...I wish I could personally smack the **** in the mouth!
Matt
yes sir i see it all day long. i was trying to be helpful but this guys isnt anything at all
 
well.. first things first. i'm unable to start this project till nov. so i'm just going through some planning. and i did just come up with 20 psi out of the blue, i figured most turbo kits are making around 10-15 whp per psi. if hiboost claims 240 hp at 14.... i figured 6 more psi should bring me around the 300+ range that i wanted to be in. and as far as it being a track car only, i plan on driving it on the street as much as possable. i just wish this car had a little more top end.
so i am still weighing out options and s*** that i can do to get to my goal. and the 30-50 grand was including the price of the car. and will include puting a better sterio in it aswell. cause mine sux.
 
well if you are serious about this you should really talk to Kevin form Essential Speed. With their Gt28r turbo kit, e-manage and 440cc injectors you will be int the 3's without touching your internals, and for the flow rate of that turbo that would only be at 12 psi. Not to mention there are a ton of other things you can throw on there to increase that bottom line like when you replace the clutch get the flywheel too. then you have cams and cam gears, and lightend crank pully. If you are looking for longer gears go to www.srmotorsports.com and under protege they have a new final gear ratio setup in there. Realistically you should be able to do it without any real major modifications, but then again if you go all forged with a value job I guess the sky si the limit. You just have to get into contact with an extremely knowlegdable shop like Essential Speed which will definatly help you reach your goal. I mean they are ready have multiple 300hp MSP running around
 
well to be blatantly obvious we are aiming around the 30psi mark to reach our goals here at the workshop on my car... the engine just went in after a full rebuild....

my first piece of info for the people looking to go there that wouldn't be found till the last moment is:
Our timing belt tensioners(at least on the aussie model) are using a spring with a set tension as opposed to nissan etc's locked in tensioner... this will probaly cause head aches (slippage of the timing belt) to even lightly boosted p5's over time
first up though before everyone freaks out... there is a solution... the stock tensioenr item is obviously from an older model fs motor (ie 626?) anyway there is a hole for you to use... so if you drill a hole the same size in the block and fit a dowel you have a rock hard tensioner... no moment at high boost/rpm... one of those pieces of info that'll:
- come in handy one day
- make people who blew there engine from valve train failure think about a possible reason for it...
- help this forum grow as a community...

hope it helps..
Doug
 
yep i totally agree with the above...
you need to look into everything the second you starting playing with this much boost... especially cooling.... heat kills everything at 20psi
 
Well I know there is a yellow p5 in puerto rico pushing 390whp at the drag stip. If only we knew what he was doing to that car. JIC Magic I think built a 400whp protege as well. 4" turbo piping all around, too. Talk about top end.
 
wiredone said:
my first piece of info for the people looking to go there that wouldn't be found till the last moment is:
Our timing belt tensioners(at least on the aussie model) are using a spring with a set tension as opposed to nissan etc's locked in tensioner... this will probaly cause head aches (slippage of the timing belt) to even lightly boosted p5's over time
first up though before everyone freaks out... there is a solution... the stock tensioenr item is obviously from an older model fs motor (ie 626?) anyway there is a hole for you to use... so if you drill a hole the same size in the block and fit a dowel you have a rock hard tensioner... no moment at high boost/rpm... one of those pieces of info that'll:
- come in handy one day
- make people who blew there engine from valve train failure think about a possible reason for it...
- help this forum grow as a community...

hope it helps..
Doug

I need to know more details about this because I had mine slip on me already and I had to pay 400$ to a mechanic just to figure out WTH was wrong with it because I thought there was no way it could be off and the the entire probelm was an electircal short.
 
well thanks to some for the info. thanks to some for the doubting. whatever comes of this project i'll just have to take in stride. i'm not expecting everything to go perfectly. I really doubt that it will. the only thing that i can hope for is that what ever breaks doesnt cost that much. but i really dont care what some people have to say about how this is dumb or that is pointless. alot of people have done dumber s*** for no reason other than there own. so if you feel the need to inform me that this is dumb and what a waist of money this will be and how dissapointing it will all be in the end, your just waisting your time.
 
You dont need to spend 30K on this car to make it a 11sec car if thats what you want.

1. Get the car lighter...free up some weight. Cost: FREE (best mod because you will be faster, engine and transmission will work with less stress)

2. Get it tuned STANDALONE : Microtech, Electromotive, Haltech to name a few COST: $2,500 max aprox tuned

3. Get it forged: $1300 aprox in parts

4. AWD transmission gears plus a LSD: cost $$$ ??? lets say $2,000

5. Race clutch: $500-$600 max aprox


As you can see, less than 10K and you are there. Theres one Red P5 here in PR pushing 428whp @ 30psi doing 11.5s and one 1st gen (gutted) @ 17psi doing 11.5 too with only 280whp, both tuned with microtech by the same tunner, and both are street cars. So well....there it is:

dengue_track.jpg


0045.jpg
 
Last edited:
ddogg777 said:
Hey Iggy, I would still like to know more about those AWD tranny gears. What did you find out?
since the day I blew up my engine im not visiting him. So, this next week I may have more info about it. Also to check whats going on the tracks, I think I heard that the P5 is trying 10seconds full body and the 1st gen protege "el dengue" has a new record 10.8s. Theres a war between them.
 
wiredone said:
well to be blatantly obvious we are aiming around the 30psi mark to reach our goals here at the workshop on my car... the engine just went in after a full rebuild....

my first piece of info for the people looking to go there that wouldn't be found till the last moment is:
Our timing belt tensioners(at least on the aussie model) are using a spring with a set tension as opposed to nissan etc's locked in tensioner... this will probaly cause head aches (slippage of the timing belt) to even lightly boosted p5's over time
first up though before everyone freaks out... there is a solution... the stock tensioenr item is obviously from an older model fs motor (ie 626?) anyway there is a hole for you to use... so if you drill a hole the same size in the block and fit a dowel you have a rock hard tensioner... no moment at high boost/rpm... one of those pieces of info that'll:
- come in handy one day
- make people who blew there engine from valve train failure think about a possible reason for it...
- help this forum grow as a community...

hope it helps..
Doug
This is interesting! I have the 626 engine in my MP3 right now. (hmm)
 
aftershock63 said:
I need to know more details about this because I had mine slip on me already and I had to pay 400$ to a mechanic just to figure out WTH was wrong with it because I thought there was no way it could be off and the the entire probelm was an electircal short.
What were your symptoms?
 

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