HydroLocked :(

alright, im just gonna follow your threads LordWorm and TheMan, and wait for some issue that you guys have, then I will bash you for having your car screw up on you or you do something to your cars.

I made this thread to seek advice as to what might cause knocking noise after being hydrolocked. I did not intend this thread to be a bash the guy who happened to go through a puddle thread or how to avoid hydro lock, or having a cai is a bad idea.
 
I've had a CAI on the Pro for a couple of years, and had one on my previous car. It's my understanding that an intake won't suck up enough water to do damage unless the filter is completely submerged. I doubt a splash or heavy rain could cause enough change in air pressure to pull a lot of water up the intake pipe. Not saying, it could not happen but seems hard to do.
 
the puddle was well past where the filter sits, so in my case it is very possible, it wasnt just a splash
 
Get busy tearing down that motor and find out what's wrong. Or are you gonig to continue to drive it until it totally fails on you?
 
i'm not driving it now, it's sitting in a parking lot near where the puddle was, im getting it down to the Mazda dealer tomorrow afternoon. I will find out in a couple days
 
alright, im just gonna follow your threads LordWorm and TheMan, and wait for some issue that you guys have, then I will bash you for having your car screw up on you or you do something to your cars.

I made this thread to seek advice as to what might cause knocking noise after being hydrolocked. I did not intend this thread to be a bash the guy who happened to go through a puddle thread or how to avoid hydro lock, or having a cai is a bad idea.

woah steady on.

a) I told you what i think might be wrong with your engine.
b) I defended your choice for having a CAI, debating with TheMan's opinion that WAI's are superior.
c) I suggested you steer clear of puddles in the future
d) told you to look on the bright side, and take pulling the engine down as an oppertunity to make it better.

You refused to accept that this could be major internal damage, and instead decided to concentrate on it being a valve damage issue (it may be...but, you wont be certain until you tear the block down and have a look).

Theres no need to get all defensive - you asked for advice/opinions, and you got them.
 
I didnt refuse to accept that it might be internal, i know there is a damn good possibility that it is. I was asking if there was water just in the head and not in the oil pan, if that would point to a more likely valve issue.

As for the other things maybe i mistook how you worded things, but it definitely seemed like bashing or flaming for driving through a puddle; trust me if I had seen the puddle before I was in it I would have stopped and turned around, but being dark, in traffic, no signs that there was a basically flooded road ahead I had no idea until I hit it and the car started bogging out and then I shut it off.

I did plenty of research and reading before coming here. The main issues I have seen associated with hydrolock was a bent rod, bent valve, or piston damage. So after looking around probably 3 hours worth of google searches and video searches on youtube, I figured I would post here. I was looking for other possible causes, you know being optimistic about it hoping something else, less serious might cause a knocking after this experience.

As for looking on the bright side and building stronger, it sounds like a good chance, but last I knew it was A LOT of custom fabbing and a lot of time acquiring the parts to build a forged motor. Anyways, the car is currently sitting at the local dealer and will be looked at monday. I will report back when they are done. As of now they aren't charging to troubleshoot, so we shall see.

And I apologize again for maybe taking something the wrong way, it's been a stressful couple days and I really didn't need the smart ass remarks from people, I was simply looking for advice on the knocking nothing more.
 
i had to drive through a flooded street on thursday. this exact thread popped into my mind as i was driving through. i basically just clutched in and coasted through... needless to say i almost s*** my pants.
 
As for looking on the bright side and building stronger, it sounds like a good chance, but last I knew it was A LOT of custom fabbing and a lot of time acquiring the parts to build a forged motor. Anyways, the car is currently sitting at the local dealer and will be looked at monday. I will report back when they are done. As of now they aren't charging to troubleshoot, so we shall see.

you can get the parts for a custom rebuild fairly readily...

There are off the shelf rods with raised wrist pins that just about every AV on this forum sells....high comp NA Pistons would need to be custom, but any AV will help.

Then you take all the goodies to an engine builder and let them do their stuff...you will need some sort of engine management to get hte most out of a built engine of course......

but yeah, not much in the way of custom stuff needed.... you only really need to replace the rods and pistons....engine builder will look after overboring, machining the crank, rebalancing and assembly....
 
well i thought the guy(forgot s/n) is going forged on his 1.6 and he has to have the pistons shaved down a bit anyways, idk seems like too much work, and not worth the outcome, if i had the 2.0 i would think about it.
 
well, the verdict came back from the shop. The entire bottom end and head are gone, probably could rebuild, but I don't have time to tow it to a friends then send the stuff out. So they are replacing the entire motor. From what I understand, the main bearings for cylinder 1 and 2 were shredded, oil was full of metal, the head had three bent valves, two being cylinder 1 and one intake on cylinder two, cylinder two was basically at 0psi for compression from what they said. New motor is going to be from a rear end wrecked protege with 73,000miles which is 13,000 less then the current motor, and the cost is insane, but what is money for then to spend.
 
That sucks, man. I feel your pain. I personally wouldn't go through the dealer, but if that is your only option, so be it.

However, do this.... Tell them that you want to keep the old parts. You would have two options: You could sell them as "cores" to people looking to go forged, or you could do a forged build yourself.
 
yeah new motor is still the 1.6l, would be more to go 2.0(wiring harness, ecu, passenger side mount, exhaust manifold, intake, maf, tranny, etc..)
 
man if my budget would allow it i would buy my KL motor and sell you my 2.0L... but it way too soon for me to do it without starving and missing car and bill payments... but i have been trying to find a way to get rid of my 2.0L when i do the motor swap... but im sure u dont want the SportAT so you'd have to supply your own tranny their... that wasn't much help was it?
 
haha not really, and a few other things would be needed, ecu, harness, passenger side mount, probably axles. However, the good old slotege is back from the dead after too much money, stock intake is on so no chance of hydrolock again, however its not overly quiet with the Mazdaspeed axle back. So I am still pleased.
Keep in touch though, when you get around to the KL swap i might be looking into a 2.0 to buy, then build then swap in a bit down the road. I am basically set on keeping my car for a couple more years.
 
yeah there is a for sale thread; although I kinda want to keep it for at least shows this year, but $100 + shipping takes it.
 

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