SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
well if you can blow air through it no matter what its bad
HOW-TO: WGA (wastegate actuator) replacement.
- Thread starter Alejo_NIN
- Start date
hey i just installed a forged wastegate on my msp and for some reason im not getting any boost at all, everythings hooked up right, checked vaccum hose ect... and i also tried adjusting it to the lenght of the stock wastegte and the tip of the rod doesnt reach the little lever where its supposed to b connected..... help?????
wastegate prob..not getting anyh boost
hey i just installed a forged wastegate on my msp and for some reason im not getting any boost at all, everythings hooked up right, checked vaccum hose ect... and i also tried adjusting it to the lenght of the stock wastegte and the tip of the rod doesnt reach the little lever where its supposed to b connected..... help?????
hey i just installed a forged wastegate on my msp and for some reason im not getting any boost at all, everythings hooked up right, checked vaccum hose ect... and i also tried adjusting it to the lenght of the stock wastegte and the tip of the rod doesnt reach the little lever where its supposed to b connected..... help?????
ya the 2nd mounting bracket bolt is a pita. definately remove the egr nut. also expect your stock e-clip to be disintegrated during removal so plan ahead and get the clip. Mine is in like 6 pieces. also adjusted stock wastegate 1 turn = .75 to 1psi increase for me. might be a bit different for you. this was with the stock IC pipes.
TX Speed Demon
Member
Been at this for 3 hours - just got the 2nd nut off. I used a 12" extension attached to a 3" extension attached to an angled joint. Running the 12" extension from the passenger side of the J-pipe underneath the car allowed me to get a good enough angle to turn it off clean. The previous 2.75 hours were spent trying to do it without the 12" extension.
Moving onto the C clip now...
Moving onto the C clip now...
TX Speed Demon
Member
since i have a new c clip i decided to just use a screwdriver to bust off the old one.
now the old WGA is lose but I cant get it out from behind my intake - no room. going to have to remove the intake pipe too.
I must say, this has been the longest, most difficult and frustrating thing I've ever done on this car.
now the old WGA is lose but I cant get it out from behind my intake - no room. going to have to remove the intake pipe too.
I must say, this has been the longest, most difficult and frustrating thing I've ever done on this car.
TX Speed Demon
Member
finally finished after about 8 hours 
few last tips. To get the WGA bar long enough to fit over the prong I used vice clamp pliers on the rod and a long screwdriver as a folcrum to extend the bar - only way my neighbor could hold it in place long enough for me to get it on.
To get the c clip on I finally wrapped the end of my 12" socket extension with some tape and lightly tapped it with a hammer till it popped into place.
Hopefully the next guy trying this has better luck!
few last tips. To get the WGA bar long enough to fit over the prong I used vice clamp pliers on the rod and a long screwdriver as a folcrum to extend the bar - only way my neighbor could hold it in place long enough for me to get it on.
To get the c clip on I finally wrapped the end of my 12" socket extension with some tape and lightly tapped it with a hammer till it popped into place.
Hopefully the next guy trying this has better luck!
finally finished after about 8 hours
few last tips. To get the WGA bar long enough to fit over the prong I used vice clamp pliers on the rod and a long screwdriver as a folcrum to extend the bar - only way my neighbor could hold it in place long enough for me to get it on.
To get the c clip on I finally wrapped the end of my 12" socket extension with some tape and lightly tapped it with a hammer till it popped into place.
Hopefully the next guy trying this has better luck!
you took way too much time!
i can do it in 1 hr flat if i don't take smoke breaks maybe even 30 mins
jerry.stoangi
Member
Just replaced my actuator and I thought I'd share my experience. My stock WGA failed some time ago. The symptoms were occasional fuel cut, erratic idle and stalling. I ordered the Forge actuator and drove the car easy until it arrived.
First off the install took me about 6 hours total to complete. I consider my self a proficient backyard mechanic as I do all of the work on my family's vehicles and I campaign a drag car. Those who claim 30minutes to an hour certainly have more skills than myself........ The task is not technically difficult but the space to work in is very tight.
Removal:
I removed the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and the the intake pipe on the turbo and pushed it out of the way (tight as hell). I used an 11mm wrench on the front bolt. On the rear bolt i used an 11mm socket with a universal (duct taped as mentioned earlier in the thread to prevent rotation) to a short extension to another universal to a long extension with a ratchet. The original clip disentegrated when I tried to remove it. The jam nut on the adjustment shaft was seized and I could not remove it. This created a problem when I tried to slip the actuator out through its mounting bracket. I used a hacksaw to cut the rod off the actuator. Removing the vacuum line off the actuator was also very tight.
Installation:
I maneuvered the valve into position as gingerly as possible to keep the angles correct such that it will slide through its bracket without bending the rod. Then I realized had to clock the forge valve to line up with the vacuum line. This involved installing and removing several times. Once installed with the mounting bolts tight I adjusted the rod to the correct length and put blue loctite on the jam nut. Now the fun part, the e-clip. First I wasted a bunch of time trying to secure the rod with an assortment of stuff including wire - that didn't work for me wasted about an hour. A hair clip ended up working best until i could get to the parts store. I picked up a bunch of 5/16 and 1/4 e-clips as stated in this thread. They were way too big. I pinched the 1/4 inch e-clip to get it to fit as snugly as possible. Its not terrific so I put a dab of red loctite on it for insurance.
Results:
The car drives and idles much better. It pulls the same as it did with the factory valve.
First off the install took me about 6 hours total to complete. I consider my self a proficient backyard mechanic as I do all of the work on my family's vehicles and I campaign a drag car. Those who claim 30minutes to an hour certainly have more skills than myself........ The task is not technically difficult but the space to work in is very tight.
Removal:
I removed the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and the the intake pipe on the turbo and pushed it out of the way (tight as hell). I used an 11mm wrench on the front bolt. On the rear bolt i used an 11mm socket with a universal (duct taped as mentioned earlier in the thread to prevent rotation) to a short extension to another universal to a long extension with a ratchet. The original clip disentegrated when I tried to remove it. The jam nut on the adjustment shaft was seized and I could not remove it. This created a problem when I tried to slip the actuator out through its mounting bracket. I used a hacksaw to cut the rod off the actuator. Removing the vacuum line off the actuator was also very tight.
Installation:
I maneuvered the valve into position as gingerly as possible to keep the angles correct such that it will slide through its bracket without bending the rod. Then I realized had to clock the forge valve to line up with the vacuum line. This involved installing and removing several times. Once installed with the mounting bolts tight I adjusted the rod to the correct length and put blue loctite on the jam nut. Now the fun part, the e-clip. First I wasted a bunch of time trying to secure the rod with an assortment of stuff including wire - that didn't work for me wasted about an hour. A hair clip ended up working best until i could get to the parts store. I picked up a bunch of 5/16 and 1/4 e-clips as stated in this thread. They were way too big. I pinched the 1/4 inch e-clip to get it to fit as snugly as possible. Its not terrific so I put a dab of red loctite on it for insurance.
Results:
The car drives and idles much better. It pulls the same as it did with the factory valve.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
I recently put a forge in as well. a ratcheting box wrench would make this easily a 1 hr job. I have a FMIC, otherwise the hot pipe would have been the first to go, the EGR was disconnected and pulled back to make clearance for the wrench, and the intake pipe was removed for clearnace on removing/installing the WGA once all fasteners were undone.
Tips and tricks: Ratcheting 11mm box wrench for removal, the forge went back on with 10mm nuts, so one of those would have helped as well.
As for the clip, I pushed it off with 2 long flathead screwdrivers between the exhaust runners.
I bought the assortment from Autozone after I lost the original while trying to reinstall. I believe the 2nd smallest size was the one that worked. I installed it by attaching a magnet to a rather large flathead screwdriver, positioning the clip rather precariously on the magnet and running it down to the shaft while looking and pointing a flashlight between the exhaust runners... it took about 6 tries to get right, but at the end of the day, it worked, so I'm happy. I also used the same screwdriver to put the needed tension on the WGA shaft and position it to seat it onto the WGA. I probably could have set the shaft a bit longer, but, oh well.
anyone know if you can rotate the forge's shaft without disconnecting the turnbuckle?
I think overall, this was about a 3 hr job for me, and most of it was dicking around in the tight space between the turbo and the block.
Tips and tricks: Ratcheting 11mm box wrench for removal, the forge went back on with 10mm nuts, so one of those would have helped as well.
As for the clip, I pushed it off with 2 long flathead screwdrivers between the exhaust runners.
I bought the assortment from Autozone after I lost the original while trying to reinstall. I believe the 2nd smallest size was the one that worked. I installed it by attaching a magnet to a rather large flathead screwdriver, positioning the clip rather precariously on the magnet and running it down to the shaft while looking and pointing a flashlight between the exhaust runners... it took about 6 tries to get right, but at the end of the day, it worked, so I'm happy. I also used the same screwdriver to put the needed tension on the WGA shaft and position it to seat it onto the WGA. I probably could have set the shaft a bit longer, but, oh well.
anyone know if you can rotate the forge's shaft without disconnecting the turnbuckle?
I think overall, this was about a 3 hr job for me, and most of it was dicking around in the tight space between the turbo and the block.
It matters if it is adjusted wrong and you blow your engine! Adjust the new rod to be the same length as the original. I highly recommend checking you boost with a gauge when done. GL
Hey guys I know Im resurrecting this thread from the grave lol, but I had a question.
Fist off thanks for this thread. As a New MSP owner back in 08 I had a faulty stock WGA and I stumble across this How To Thread. I purchased the ATP WGA from this thread and using the instructions here, I had it installed in about 30 minutes. I installed it 3 years ago this month, Nov 2008. The WGA has been great! It has help 6PSI with No Boost spike for the past 3 years. Until recently I finally installed a MBC and Im having some issues. I finally have the supporting mods for 10 PSI, and the MBC is installed and set at 8 PSI. Well when I step on it I boost spike to 11PSI then back down to 6PSI then level out at 8PSI...WEIRD? I have no boost leaks (I double checked). Anyways, someone recommended getting a new WGA.
My question is HOW long do these things usually last? Should I get a new one?
It seemed to be fine up until i installed the MBC. Anyways, any insight would be great! THANKS
Fist off thanks for this thread. As a New MSP owner back in 08 I had a faulty stock WGA and I stumble across this How To Thread. I purchased the ATP WGA from this thread and using the instructions here, I had it installed in about 30 minutes. I installed it 3 years ago this month, Nov 2008. The WGA has been great! It has help 6PSI with No Boost spike for the past 3 years. Until recently I finally installed a MBC and Im having some issues. I finally have the supporting mods for 10 PSI, and the MBC is installed and set at 8 PSI. Well when I step on it I boost spike to 11PSI then back down to 6PSI then level out at 8PSI...WEIRD? I have no boost leaks (I double checked). Anyways, someone recommended getting a new WGA.
My question is HOW long do these things usually last? Should I get a new one?
It seemed to be fine up until i installed the MBC. Anyways, any insight would be great! THANKS
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
If adding an MBC is when the problem popped up, I wouldn't suspect your WGA. what MBC is it?
I thought the same thing too man. Anyways, this is the one I bought
http://www.perrinperformance.com/p/83
I bought Perrin, only because I have Perrin exhaust, Perrin SRI, and Perrin FMIC. I really like Perrin products so I figured I would keep all my mods the same if possible
Do you know of any mazda owners who have used this MBC?
http://www.perrinperformance.com/p/83
I bought Perrin, only because I have Perrin exhaust, Perrin SRI, and Perrin FMIC. I really like Perrin products so I figured I would keep all my mods the same if possible
Do you know of any mazda owners who have used this MBC?
