03BlkMicaSPD
Quality Literature...
- :
- 2003 MazdaSpeed
This is the rough and dirty version since I have had little time, working 10hr shifts and all. Any questions can be PMed to me. ~PIC AT BOTTOM~
This is just for the stock DP, this is assuming you have the rest of the exhaust off. I will get a pic of the tools I used so it can be totally clear soon. If anyone needs help near NC let me know and we will get some good pics of the process.
Here we go
What to do first, remove the plastic covers at the bottom of the engine, around the turbo and the top intercooler pipe. Just a few 10mm bolts. Remove the bracket that mounts to the base of the S-pipe from the engine and S-pipe. Now look at the turbo and you should see a hose with a diamond shaped two bolt flange and a square pattern bolt head, need a special wrench for these. Take this off of the engine block and turbo and set it aside. no oil should leak from this with the engine off.
Now you will need a long 6 inch extension, a small swivle, and thin wall 6point 12mm socket. I used 3/8 inch ratchet. now you should be able to get to the back bolt by the engine block with this socket wrench, may need a helper to look from the bottom and help guide the socket on the bolt. Now this isnt easy, but by no means hard and it can be done. Go at it from the front of the turbo from the top engine bay. There is only one way to get on it.
Now the next bolt is the tough one. The bottom middle bolt on the flange. I had a 12mm wrench that can be purchased at any hardware store. It is around 8in long and at the very end it bends tward the bolt head to give clearance from close by bolts. With this 12mm wrench it can be taken off. Now a chisle can make your life easier and you will have a little score mark on the bolt when you are done. Standard bolt that can be purchased at lows... Use a small 8-10 inch chisle and tap a small indentation into the mushroomed edge of this bold and then angle the chistle to turn the bolt loose when tapping it with a hammer. (tap with some reasonable force) PB blaster will make this even easier. Its not hard, just believe in yourself (pullup) and have some patience. I had the DP totally off in 40 min including getting the car on jack stands. The new one can be installed in less than 15 min.
The rest of the bolts are not hard to get off at all. now you should have the downpipe flange unbolted. You will notice that it will not come off of the studs with the AC condensor mounted up. Loosen the tension from the belt by the adjustment on the power steering bracket. Remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor on the mounting bracket. Push it to the side, carefully, mazdas hoses suck and could split, have someone hold the metal pipe going to the condensor to keep stress off of the rubber hose near the bottom of the compressor.(This could be done first to help make removing the first bolt easier but I got it off with it still mounted up)
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the ac compressor bracket on the engine block. Now remove that Downpipe and be another person that did the impossible The turbo heat shield is a pain but you can either bend it back or take it off. install new downpipe on the studs and reattach the bracket and compressor and belt. Be sure to get enough tension on the belt. Now proceed to put the bolts on the studs which is simple with the GHL pipe on there. You have plenty of room to tighten them up all with a rachet, or wrench. Reattach the hose you removed from the bottom of the turbo going to the engine block. Put the plastics back on the bottom to keep water out and continue with the rest of the exhaust(cool)
This is just for the stock DP, this is assuming you have the rest of the exhaust off. I will get a pic of the tools I used so it can be totally clear soon. If anyone needs help near NC let me know and we will get some good pics of the process.
Here we go
What to do first, remove the plastic covers at the bottom of the engine, around the turbo and the top intercooler pipe. Just a few 10mm bolts. Remove the bracket that mounts to the base of the S-pipe from the engine and S-pipe. Now look at the turbo and you should see a hose with a diamond shaped two bolt flange and a square pattern bolt head, need a special wrench for these. Take this off of the engine block and turbo and set it aside. no oil should leak from this with the engine off. Now you will need a long 6 inch extension, a small swivle, and thin wall 6point 12mm socket. I used 3/8 inch ratchet. now you should be able to get to the back bolt by the engine block with this socket wrench, may need a helper to look from the bottom and help guide the socket on the bolt. Now this isnt easy, but by no means hard and it can be done. Go at it from the front of the turbo from the top engine bay. There is only one way to get on it.
Now the next bolt is the tough one. The bottom middle bolt on the flange. I had a 12mm wrench that can be purchased at any hardware store. It is around 8in long and at the very end it bends tward the bolt head to give clearance from close by bolts. With this 12mm wrench it can be taken off. Now a chisle can make your life easier and you will have a little score mark on the bolt when you are done. Standard bolt that can be purchased at lows... Use a small 8-10 inch chisle and tap a small indentation into the mushroomed edge of this bold and then angle the chistle to turn the bolt loose when tapping it with a hammer. (tap with some reasonable force) PB blaster will make this even easier. Its not hard, just believe in yourself (pullup) and have some patience. I had the DP totally off in 40 min including getting the car on jack stands. The new one can be installed in less than 15 min.
The rest of the bolts are not hard to get off at all. now you should have the downpipe flange unbolted. You will notice that it will not come off of the studs with the AC condensor mounted up. Loosen the tension from the belt by the adjustment on the power steering bracket. Remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor on the mounting bracket. Push it to the side, carefully, mazdas hoses suck and could split, have someone hold the metal pipe going to the condensor to keep stress off of the rubber hose near the bottom of the compressor.(This could be done first to help make removing the first bolt easier but I got it off with it still mounted up)
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the ac compressor bracket on the engine block. Now remove that Downpipe and be another person that did the impossible
The turbo heat shield is a pain but you can either bend it back or take it off. install new downpipe on the studs and reattach the bracket and compressor and belt. Be sure to get enough tension on the belt. Now proceed to put the bolts on the studs which is simple with the GHL pipe on there. You have plenty of room to tighten them up all with a rachet, or wrench. Reattach the hose you removed from the bottom of the turbo going to the engine block. Put the plastics back on the bottom to keep water out and continue with the rest of the exhaust(cool)
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Nice write up. (thumb)
