How To: Retrofit your Mazda2

Suddueth13

Member
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2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Okay guys, here's a write up on how to retrofit your Mazda 2's headlights with Bi-Xenon projectors. The projectors I'm using are Morimoto Mini D2S from TheRetrofitSource.com. This process works just the same for the Morimoto Mini H1 projectors as they use the same mounting method. This is what I'm starting out with minus the E55 shrouds. This time around I'm using E46-R shrouds.
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Now the first step to the retrofit is to get the lights apart. There's two ways to go about this, either the bake method using an oven, or a heat gun. Unfortunately, our headlights are huge and wouldn't fit in my oven so I had to resort to the heat gun method. There are 4 screws helping secure the lens to the housing. Remove these first before seperating. It took a little longer than the oven would but still works none-the-less. Just take your time and gently put the heat at the seam where then lens meets the housing and slowly go around. Once the butyl sealant is pliable, go around the edges with either a wide screwdriver or flat putty knife and gently pry without forcing starting at the corner where the turn signal is. Once the lens starts to seperate, you can pull it apart with your hands working down to the corner where the parking light is. Make sure to not get the butyl sealant on the lens as it is very difficult to get off. Here will be your finished product.

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Now that the lights are apart you can start prepping them for the projectors. You need to remove the factory bulb retainer and shield.
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Once these are removed you can insert the threaded back of the projector into the opening. Make sure to feed the solenoid wire through the bulb opening as well. You can tuck it into the bottom where the sheild used to sit. Now place the 9003/H4 adapter plate on the back side and line it up with the factory tabs and place the o-ring. Now simply tighten the lock nut down. This is how it will sit in the hosuing.
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Now you should place the light back into the car to test the rotational aim. For best results the car should be pointed towards a flat wall while being on relatively level ground. Turn the light on and look at the cutoff. It should be parallel to the ground. If it is not, adjust the projector so that it is.
 

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I tested mine with the shield on to test for light bleed off at the same time.

At this point, make sure that the projector lens is absolutely clean from smudges and fingerprints. Then you can clean and install your shrouds. Some like to secure it with a sealant but I opted not to this time.
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Once you get the shield situated the way you want and everything cleaned up you can seal the lights back up. What I did this time was use the heat gun to heat the butyl sealant on the housing first. Once it is pliable again, I put the lense on and squeeze it back into place. I reinstall the lense screws and then heat up the whole thing again. Once it cools its re-sealed and you're ready to install them back in the car to aim them. Here's the proper procedure to aim them. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?10848-HOW-TO-aim-HID-headlights

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Hopefully this was helpful to those looking to retrofit their Mazda 2. If there's any questions or if anyone needs any other pictures feel free to comment and ask!
 

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Very nice! Does the adapter plate come as part of the retrofit kit? I wasn't aware that they were offering bolt-in setups now.
 
Yes, the adapters come with both the Mini D2S and Mini H1 kits. With as easy as these are to do, there's no excuse for someone to cheap out with a plug and play HID kit.
 
wow never knew of bolt on prjector fits haha, how much roughly did the kit cost you? and is this easy to wire up aswel?
 
My costs varied as I never originally purchased the full Morimoto kit. Retail starts at $270 for the Mini H1 and $295 for the Mini D2S. Anyone who already has a plug and play kit can do it cheaper by just getting the PnP upgrade kit and you can still use your ballasts and harness.
 
^^ this. Did you see a way to pop that orange reflector out while you had the whole lense out suddueth?
 
dam you make it sound soo easy... if i was handy at all i would totally do this... but usually once i get things appart, they dont go back together again... /sadface wonder if i bought the kit if i could find a carshop to do the install lol! and that orange reflector needs to go.. i want a green one to match my car1
 
Any luck getting a pic of that adapter plate? I sent the guy at the retrofit source an email asking for h4/9003 plate and he has no idea what I'm talking about lol.
 
Once the lens is apart you have to unscrew the hood from it. From there you can remove the sidemarker housing/amber lens. I would have tested it tonight when I did the driver side but I needed to get it done in a hurry so I didn't have time. Should be a direct swap to fit the clear reflector in there but you would lose your sidemarker as I don't think the clear ones have one. I'll get the picture of the adapter transfered and post it asap.

EDIT: Here's a pic of it
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ok after looking around the site i found the kit you have and just to be sure i have it all correct, heres the links....

Projector set
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=236

Existing HID kit adapter
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=97

Shrouds, hmmm not 100% sure but may just go with what you have as it looks damn good tbh haha

now i like the blue tint i currently have and want to keep it, im running 8000k at the moment, best retrofit do is 5000k, is there a picture for the colour of 5000k, ive seen a blue beam like my HID kit from a projector set in a couple of cars in the street, any suggestions on the bulb fitting?

Chris
 
I'd like to add one thing. Make sure to take the parking light bulb socket OUT of the headlight before pulling the lens off. Also, the 4th screw I couldn't find is in that corner where the parking light is. Forgetting to remove either of these will result in a broken black inside surround. lol. It doesn't break where you can see it though :)
 
^^Yes I did forget to mention those! This was the original kit I started out with. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=178 Once you start going above 5000k, you start to lose lumen output. The absolute max I would recommend would be 6000k. Alot of the blue you see from projectors coming at you is the color flicker effect from the cutoff shield and lens on the projector. The light underneath that is pure white. I actually switched from the original Morimoto 5000k bulbs to Osram Xenarc 4300k bulbs and definitely noticed a difference. It's slightly yellower but seems to put out more light all around. I need to re-seat my passenger side bulb though.
 
I don't know if you get what i mean suddueth, im talking the whole beam and floor is blue, and thats coming from a projector bulb, i know on the mortorway when looking in my mirror ive seen a tint of blue and its just the flicker from the beam but im on about full blue colour lol

Chris
 
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