How To: Retrofit your Mazda2
- Thread starter Suddueth13
- Start date
Suddueth13
Member
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- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
All my pictures were from my iPhone as well LOL. Chris, I understand what you mean, I was just showing you the difference. The flicker is typical but the actual blue light comes from higher temperature bulbs and are not OEM. You could still get 8000k bulbs but you will still suffer from poor light output. 6000k would be the highest I would recommend if you HAVE to have some blue to it(keep in mind that the human eye doesn't percieve the color blue very well). You will still sacrifice lumens but it won't be as drastic. You'll still get a slight blue tint in the light pattern without it being too much.
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
This is mine @ 25 feet:
Sorry, it's an iphone pic...
It almost looks like the rotational aim is off on both sides. The left side needs to come up some to be even with the passenger side
Whoa now.. By rotational do you mean literally rotate the projector? Because that little adapter plate I asked you I take a pic of located mine where stock bulbs would have been (I assume). Can you rotate yours left/right??? I can only adjust the reflector bowl up/down. Also, I was told that the two beams should not overlap (by TRS), so I made the left one a little lower, I'm guessing that's so I don't blind oncoming traffic but who knows. I'm new to this lol.
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Yes, as in the rotation of the projector. The alignment tab helps tremendously but there's always some fine tweaking. Yes, I can still rotate mine but not while everything is sealed up. The lights have to come back apart to fix it. My right projector is off rotation slightly counter clockwise. The cutoffs should be level with each other and parallel to the ground. They shouldn't overlap yes, so if they do then you would need to adjust the horizontal aim to seperate the beams. Luckily our lights are set up decent from the factory so no horizontal adjustment should be needed. Ideally you want the cutoff to drop 1"-2" below headlight center at 25'. This will ensure not to blind oncoming traffic.
How are you rotating them? On mine that little tab on the inside diameter of the adapter plate lines up with the top groove in the threaded part of the projector and then the adapter lines it up on the back of the reflector.... Enlighten me, because I had noticed the rotation but assumed because everything is put together how it is, I couldn't rotate them.
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Remove the shroud, grab the projector by the lens holder/bulb flange and turn. It'll take a little effort which is good. Just make sure to adjust in small incriments.
Fam, those look okay but there's too much glare above the cutoff. That's typical of some halogen projectors when used with HIDs. Some work okay, others cause glare and the beams are too narrow. The Mazda 3 halogen projectors coupled with a clear lens and good kit work phenomenal for instance
Fam, those look okay but there's too much glare above the cutoff. That's typical of some halogen projectors when used with HIDs. Some work okay, others cause glare and the beams are too narrow. The Mazda 3 halogen projectors coupled with a clear lens and good kit work phenomenal for instance
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- 2014 Mazda3 GS + 2013 CX-5 Touring.
I just buyed the TRS kit. Now wanting to remove the headlights.
These headlights are givin' me a bad time... can somebody post some pic of all the Bolts/Push-Pin they remove to get the headlight out?
Mines don't wanna come out.. Close tough. Must be not seeing a bolt or something.
I've got the four bolt in the corner of the headlights. (2 are from the fender) I've got those in the front near the Mazda logo. Couple Push-pins near the tire.
Sorry for my Bad english I'm french
Thanks !
These headlights are givin' me a bad time... can somebody post some pic of all the Bolts/Push-Pin they remove to get the headlight out?
Mines don't wanna come out.. Close tough. Must be not seeing a bolt or something.
I've got the four bolt in the corner of the headlights. (2 are from the fender) I've got those in the front near the Mazda logo. Couple Push-pins near the tire.
Sorry for my Bad english I'm french
Thanks !
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- 2014 Mazda3 GS + 2013 CX-5 Touring.
With my work I can't install both the retrofit and the HID the same day cause I need to drive at night. I would take the first day to install My ballast and wiring then the next I would do the retrofit..
My question is
Can I install all the HID setup and the day after do the retrofit and just put the lights in after ? Or should I do the opposite?
Sorry for my english again..
I have never done anything like this before and I finished mine in 10 hours If you won't be waiting for things to dry (I painted the insides of my housings) and don't have to modify the shrouds to fit (my Panamera shrouds were HUGE), you should be able to get it done fairly fast.
But what I think you're asking is, can you hook up all of the wiring first and then open the headlights and install the projectors. The answer is yes. I mounted the big relay on the driver side fender, there's a hole up by the edge of the headlight (towards the driver compartment). You can install the relay box to the INSIDE of the fender with a bolt, nut, and washer. It doesn't interfere with the headlight and is almost totally hidden. I then mounted the ballasts on the frame rails. I bent the driver side bracket 90 degrees and mounted to an already-threaded hole. The passenger side I think I mounted vertically, that side didn't have the threaded hole on top, but it did have one on the side of the rail. I may be able to get pics, but once you get the lights out it's self explanatory, or you can find a different area to mount them. To install the ballasts hidden, you will more than likely have to take the lights out. Not too big of a job, you should be able to do it in 2 steps like you want!
If you won't be waiting for things to dry (I painted the insides of my housings) and don't have to modify the shrouds to fit (my Panamera shrouds were HUGE), you should be able to get it done fairly fast.But what I think you're asking is, can you hook up all of the wiring first and then open the headlights and install the projectors. The answer is yes. I mounted the big relay on the driver side fender, there's a hole up by the edge of the headlight (towards the driver compartment). You can install the relay box to the INSIDE of the fender with a bolt, nut, and washer. It doesn't interfere with the headlight and is almost totally hidden. I then mounted the ballasts on the frame rails. I bent the driver side bracket 90 degrees and mounted to an already-threaded hole. The passenger side I think I mounted vertically, that side didn't have the threaded hole on top, but it did have one on the side of the rail. I may be able to get pics, but once you get the lights out it's self explanatory, or you can find a different area to mount them. To install the ballasts hidden, you will more than likely have to take the lights out. Not too big of a job, you should be able to do it in 2 steps like you want!
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- 2014 Mazda3 GS + 2013 CX-5 Touring.
So today I've tried my HID. They work hehe.
Couples of questions:
1. They make a lot of noise when I switch from Low to High Beam, is it normal ? I think but just to make sure.
2. When I open them they're Green and then switch to blue than White/blue ?
thanks
Couples of questions:
1. They make a lot of noise when I switch from Low to High Beam, is it normal ? I think but just to make sure.
2. When I open them they're Green and then switch to blue than White/blue ?
thanks
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- 2014 Mazda3 GS + 2013 CX-5 Touring.
Oh and the bulbs seems to become friggin' hot when switched on.....Really hot
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- Banned For Being A Troll
