How to replace belt molding on rear passenger door? 2016.5 CX-5 GT

[SBMongoos]

There's been some slow sun rot on the belt molding on the rear left door (behind the driver). I've been told this is easy to replace. As easy as grabbing it near the catch/latch and pulling on it which would break off the locking tab and then just snap the new one in. Is this right? Or would it be best to use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[itsmike]

This looks like it’s from service manual or alldata maybe:

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Rear Beltline Molding Removal/Installation - General

www.mcx5.org

 

[SBMongoos]

This looks like it’s from service manual or alldata maybe:

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Rear Beltline Molding Removal/Installation - General

www.mcx5.org

Ya, I found that shortly after my post. Looks like a mild pain but probably the way to go.

 

[SBMongoos]

There's a trim piece that covers part of this beltline molding but I don't see how to remove it first to then get the beltline molding off.

 

[itsmike]

It’s partially double-sided taped on, and partially clipped on.

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Rear Door Garnish Removal/Installation - Doors/Lids & Hood/Trunk

www.mcx5.org

 

[SBMongoos]

It’s partially double-sided taped on, and partially clipped on.

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Rear Door Garnish Removal/Installation - Doors/Lids & Hood/Trunk

www.mcx5.org

Looks like I need to pull that garnish piece straight out to get it to pop off. But the adhesive tape could be a pain. Assuming the clips don't break apparently the tape would need to be replaced?

 

[itsmike]

Yeah you’d want to clean and retape the molding. The link shows where to position pry tool to release the clips. If those break, it could possibly break the molding itself where the clip attaches. Also, not certain but a lot of times those clips are only available with the molding assy. Do your best to use those pry locations and your chances are better for saving the part/clips. The tape should then be fairly easy to release using fishing line if you have some…if not, use a plastic spreader or plastic pry tool to try and cut the adhesive. Make sure you fully remove all old tape from both surfaces and clean thoroughly with alcohol before applying new tape.

 

[SBMongoos]

Yeah you’d want to clean and retape the molding. The link shows where to position pry tool to release the clips. If those break, it could possibly break the molding itself where the clip attaches. Also, not certain but a lot of times those clips are only available with the molding assy. Do your best to use those pry locations and your chances are better for saving the part/clips. The tape should then be fairly easy to release using fishing line if you have some…if not, use a plastic spreader or plastic pry tool to try and cut the adhesive. Make sure you fully remove all old tape from both surfaces and clean thoroughly with alcohol before applying new tape.

hmmm...bought the belt molding already but wondering about having the local Mazda dealer do this. They've been a good group. Don't want to screw something up. I somehow missed that the garnish piece overlapped the belt molding. They had stated that it would cost between $80 - $120 which should include the cost of the part. Which, obviously, I already paid for.

I'm not seeing where to position the pry tool. This is for the left rear door (behind driver).

 

[itsmike]

You also might be able to release only the bottom clip and gain enough wiggle room to remove the belt molding. Personally I wouldn’t pay the dealer for something like this. Dealerships notoriously have high labor rates. Most body shops have a much more reasonable rate and belt moldings are a very frequent labor operation at body shops. If you don’t feel comfortable trying it, at the very least look for a reputable body shop in your area and I’m 99% certain it will be cheaper than the dealer. But understand that cars and trim parts are designed to go together and stay together, so even the best body technician will break things upon removal sometimes. Exterior plastics can become very brittle over time, and that wouldn’t be the shop’s fault.

 

[SBMongoos]

Talked to someone at a body shop about this. This was a 5 minute job. The Mazda details on the process could take some time so their fee would be interesting.

 

[itsmike]

Nice, what did the body shop charge, if you don’t mind sharing?

 

[SBMongoos]

I did all the work. I was looking into some other things about the car and brought up the belt molding at the body shop (I know the guy). He said you can work it up by hand and then the catch (on the left slide) will break off. Then simply insert the new one and be sure the new catch is secure. Be sure to have the window down, of course, and then be sure it's pressed into place. I just inserted the right side first to get it under that vertical garnish.

 

[SWCX5R]

I did all the work. I was looking into some other things about the car and brought up the belt molding at the body shop (I know the guy). He said you can work it up by hand and then the catch (on the left slide) will break off. Then simply insert the new one and be sure the new catch is secure. Be sure to have the window down, of course, and then be sure it's pressed into place. I just inserted the right side first to get it under that vertical garnish.

So did you need that molding removal tool?

 

[SBMongoos]

So did you need that molding removal tool?

No I didn't. I started at the right end of the molding and had to bend it a bit to get it out. Then slowly lift up as I moved to the left where it's connected at the catch.