HOW TO: Protege Rear Bearing

BRIAN_MP5T

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I noticed that my rear tire was "Wobbly"
Makes sense, the Chassis has over 160,000 Km on it and the car is a 2002.


The rear Bearing only comes in the Hub, No Choice.
It is not a press fit, anybody can do this job in under one hour.


There are Two Parts.

Hub with ABS Ring
$250.00 Cdn

Hub without ABS
$190.00 Cdn

I no longer have ABS so I took the Lighter/Cheaper Hub for both rears.

You Will Need a
-36mm Socket
-Breaker Bar
-14mm Wrench
-Mini Sledge
-Rubber Hammer
-Chisel (Sharp and Low Quality, Used to Pry open Cap)
-Flat Screwdriver
-WD-40
-Brake Cleaner
-Tooth Brush
-Anti-Seize
-Mechanics Gloves
-Paper Towel/Shop Towel
-Jack
-Jack Stand
-Old wire
-Cardboard


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1. Break Torque on Wheel Nuts, Jack Up Rear, Place Jack stand, Remove Tire.

2. Place Car in Gear, Disengage Park Brake.

3. a With a 14mm Wrench, Remove the Brake Caliper and suspend it with a wire, Remove the Disk and place it on the cardboard.
or
3. b Leave the park brake ON and remove everything still attached.

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4. With the Chisel, pry open the Hub Cap a bit, then rotate and pry the other side until it's off.

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5. Free Up the Stamped ring on the 36mm nut with a Punch or a screwdriver you do not like.

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6. Remove the 36mm nut and pay attention to how much force is required to remove it.

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7. Pull the hub off, Do not damage the shaft, make sure the entire bearing comes off.

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8. Clean off the rust and dirt with WD-40 and a toothbrush, Spray with brake cleaner.

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9. Slide the new hub on, take care to align it and not force it, it will go on easily.

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10. Replace the 36mm Nut and return the dented tab to it's original position.

11. With a Coal Chisel or punch, bend the ring back into the gap.

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12. Verify free motion of the hub, Check for binding or odd sounds.

13. Replace the Hub Cap with a rubber hammer. Small Taps.

14. (Not Required) A bit of Anti Seize will keep the hub from rusting. Do not Plaster it, it will end up on the Disk.

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15. Replace the Disk and Caliper.

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16. Replace the Rim and Torque once on the ground.

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17. TEST DRIVE! (Zoom Zoom)​
 
Last edited:
How sure are you that it's a 36mm nut? From what I read it's 35mm (here and here).

Obviously you can safely use a 36mm socket on a 35mm nut, but I only have a 35mm socket so I need to know if I have to pick up a 36mm :)
 
How sure are you that it's a 36mm nut? From what I read it's 35mm (here and here).

Obviously you can safely use a 36mm socket on a 35mm nut, but I only have a 35mm socket so I need to know if I have to pick up a 36mm :)

I can't confirm. The socket was at Canadian Tire and was cheap...
 
Thanks for the thread

Doing my bearings right now

2 recommends

You are going to need a HUGE arm to break that 36mm nut loose, my 250 lb ass standing on my breaker bar did nothing, I'm going to home depot to get a long piece of pipe

Just order new dust caps at the same time as hub, destroyed mine and they are only $6-7/ea

Sears doesn't really carry a 35mm socket, got 36 seems to working
 
Glad it worked.

Just a point of cost vs effectveness.

A 35mm Impact Socket is the correct tool... however it is worth more than the hub... which is why I posted "El Cheapo" on a breaker bar.

The impact gun would probably split the cheap socket..
 
I didn't have a week to wait for the mail but thanks for the link

I feel your pain, it's a shame amazon.ca sucks so hard. When I did mine I ordered the bearing and the socket at the same time from amazon.com and picked it up in the states. But that's because I'm poor, not because of shipping speed :p
 
good stuff. will be doing mines soon
best place to order hubs from?
 
good stuff. will be doing mines soon
best place to order hubs from?

Last I checked amazon was the cheapest for the Timken-brand rear hub. Don't go for a cheap one, the Timken ones are actually made in Japan unlike some of the bad $40 ones you'll find on ebay.
 
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