Hey fellow Miata owners. I recently installed 2 new gauges to compliment my boost gauge. They were all purchased from Prosport. Since there is no write up on the boost gauge, I'll just add it in here along with the other 2.
The 3 gauges I will be covering are:
PROSPORT Electrical Boost gauge
PROSPORT Electrical A/F (Air:Fuel) & Voltimeter (2-in-1) gauge
PROSPORT Electrical EGT (Exhaust Temp) gauge
BOOST
Probably the easiest of the bunch.
The boost gauge is a pretty simple, straight-forward install.
There's 3 wires running from the back of the gauge:
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
Next is the vacuum/boost line. It goes as follows:
The gauge comes with a nipple on the backside. I ran the vaccum line through the firewall via an existing hole.
After consulting KCBHIW, it was decided that the best place to run the line to was just above the intake manifold. There is a nipple there also. I ran the line to that.
Test:
Crank the car on see if the system pressurizes. If it does & you step on the throttle and your psi goes up, then you are in business.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
Be sure to check your vacuum lines also. If you have a boost leak somewhere, you may have an inaccurate reading.
AIR/FUEL
(The voltimeter is included in this gauge. It will be covered seperately)
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
4-Signal wire (explained below)
Direct wiring to the ECU:
Lift the carpet in the vicinity of the passenger's feet area (you may
have to unscrew the plastic scuff plate that covers the door sill to get
the carpet up) and then remove the unpainted metal plate which is
sitting at a 45 degree angle against the firewall. The ECU is located there.
It's a red wire with a blue stripe. If you have an ECU pinout, it's
terminal 2N. If you don't, then pick up the ECU and look at the edge
with the connectors, with the larger of the two connectors on the right
side. Pin 2N will be on the larger connector, on the bottom row, in the
middle. Splice into this wire. This is a great place to pick up the signal because you can easily fish a wire from here, up through the dash, to wherever you want to go.
I on the other hand, decided to go to wire under the hood.
Find the point at the back of the engine where the wiring harness splits out to connect to the cam sensor and the ignition coil, one branch for each. There will be a third branch, containing only one wire. It's a red/blue wire inside a black plastic sleeve which goes straight to a connector, and then a black wire plugs into that and disappears down the exhaust side of the engine. This is the O2 sensor lead. Since I had the cruise control removed, I ran my signal wire through that.
Here's where I tapped the signal wire:
Here's where I ran the lines:
Test:
Start the car. Drive. Under normal load, the gauge should be 'dancing' between RED & GREEN..that is normal. Under full load, expect it to hit/peg out on GREEN as you are running rich. As you let off, most likely it will go RED then back to 'Christmas lights' green-yellow-red etc.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
Voltimeter
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition power wire (you wire it directly to the battery & it will stay on...that's a definite no-no)
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
Test:
Insert the key in the ignition. Turn the key to ON or ACC. The voltimeter should come on & show the current battery charge power.
Troubleshoot:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
EGT
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
4-O2Signal line (explained below)*
*The PROSPORT gauge has a Pink & Blue wire that splits from the sensor wire & is connected to the gauge by connecting the corresponding colors.
Before installation, ensure that the exhaust pipe & the engine are both cool enough for you to not hurt yourself. I decided to have a mechanic do this for me, as I did not have the time, tools, or space to get it done. The PROSPORT gauge came with a 1.8" adapter. You will need to drill a hole to match the 1.8" threading. Clean the hole & hand tighten the adapter fitting into the hole. Using a 12mm wrench, turn the adapter 1.5 - 2.5 threads with torque around 0.3~0.5.
After the adapter is securely fastened, insert the provided bushing & nut in sequence. Tighten with 12mm wrench. The sensor cable should be properly mounter on the wall of the engine bay & should be kept away from heat. I ran the signal line through the same cruise control opening, as shown here:
Test:
Start the car. Wait for the car to warm up, you will see the temperature displayed.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
The 3 gauges I will be covering are:
PROSPORT Electrical Boost gauge
PROSPORT Electrical A/F (Air:Fuel) & Voltimeter (2-in-1) gauge
PROSPORT Electrical EGT (Exhaust Temp) gauge
BOOST
Probably the easiest of the bunch.
The boost gauge is a pretty simple, straight-forward install.
There's 3 wires running from the back of the gauge:
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
Next is the vacuum/boost line. It goes as follows:
The gauge comes with a nipple on the backside. I ran the vaccum line through the firewall via an existing hole.
After consulting KCBHIW, it was decided that the best place to run the line to was just above the intake manifold. There is a nipple there also. I ran the line to that.
Test:
Crank the car on see if the system pressurizes. If it does & you step on the throttle and your psi goes up, then you are in business.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
Be sure to check your vacuum lines also. If you have a boost leak somewhere, you may have an inaccurate reading.
AIR/FUEL
(The voltimeter is included in this gauge. It will be covered seperately)
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
4-Signal wire (explained below)
Direct wiring to the ECU:
Lift the carpet in the vicinity of the passenger's feet area (you may
have to unscrew the plastic scuff plate that covers the door sill to get
the carpet up) and then remove the unpainted metal plate which is
sitting at a 45 degree angle against the firewall. The ECU is located there.
It's a red wire with a blue stripe. If you have an ECU pinout, it's
terminal 2N. If you don't, then pick up the ECU and look at the edge
with the connectors, with the larger of the two connectors on the right
side. Pin 2N will be on the larger connector, on the bottom row, in the
middle. Splice into this wire. This is a great place to pick up the signal because you can easily fish a wire from here, up through the dash, to wherever you want to go.
I on the other hand, decided to go to wire under the hood.
Find the point at the back of the engine where the wiring harness splits out to connect to the cam sensor and the ignition coil, one branch for each. There will be a third branch, containing only one wire. It's a red/blue wire inside a black plastic sleeve which goes straight to a connector, and then a black wire plugs into that and disappears down the exhaust side of the engine. This is the O2 sensor lead. Since I had the cruise control removed, I ran my signal wire through that.
Here's where I tapped the signal wire:
Here's where I ran the lines:
Test:
Start the car. Drive. Under normal load, the gauge should be 'dancing' between RED & GREEN..that is normal. Under full load, expect it to hit/peg out on GREEN as you are running rich. As you let off, most likely it will go RED then back to 'Christmas lights' green-yellow-red etc.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
Voltimeter
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition power wire (you wire it directly to the battery & it will stay on...that's a definite no-no)
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
Test:
Insert the key in the ignition. Turn the key to ON or ACC. The voltimeter should come on & show the current battery charge power.
Troubleshoot:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
EGT
1-Power (+) I wired this to my ignition
2-Ground (-) I grounded this to the frame
3-Dimmer (I did not install mine to function with my head lights)
4-O2Signal line (explained below)*
*The PROSPORT gauge has a Pink & Blue wire that splits from the sensor wire & is connected to the gauge by connecting the corresponding colors.
Before installation, ensure that the exhaust pipe & the engine are both cool enough for you to not hurt yourself. I decided to have a mechanic do this for me, as I did not have the time, tools, or space to get it done. The PROSPORT gauge came with a 1.8" adapter. You will need to drill a hole to match the 1.8" threading. Clean the hole & hand tighten the adapter fitting into the hole. Using a 12mm wrench, turn the adapter 1.5 - 2.5 threads with torque around 0.3~0.5.
After the adapter is securely fastened, insert the provided bushing & nut in sequence. Tighten with 12mm wrench. The sensor cable should be properly mounter on the wall of the engine bay & should be kept away from heat. I ran the signal line through the same cruise control opening, as shown here:
Test:
Start the car. Wait for the car to warm up, you will see the temperature displayed.
Troubleshooting:
If it doesn't check your connections, a bad ground can result in no needle movement (electrical).
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