How to install JoeP MBC?

EVO8

Member
I am new to this site and I have been looking for a thread that shows exactly how to install the MBC, but have been unsuccessful. If someone could point me in the right direction, that would be great.
Also, what could I expect to get horsepower-wise from this mod? Would I be better off getting a Apexi AVC-R, Blitz DSBC, or some other electronic controller. I want to try and save some money, but I also want something that is gonna be good!!
 
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17866&highlight=complete+mbc+install

Search for "mbc install" and it'll come up. (Or just click that link :D)

A set HP gain on a turbo car is virtually nonexistant. *EVERY* MSP out here is different power wise. You could dyno your car and another MSP and you'd see slight differences. That's the lovely thing about turbo'd cars. Plus air density, temperature, etc plays a major role in turbo performance. Try driving your car as it is now during mid day in the heat and then at night. Even those times you'll notice a difference.

I've installed JoeP's MBC and love it. Very easy to adjust, no pain in the ass electronic boxes everywhere. Short, simple, and to the point. Just don't get too carried away, as our cars have issues with running over 11-12psi on pump gas without tuning. From what you said about keeping it cheap for now, as many are, I doubt you have some kinda fuel management setup yet. Just stay below 11psi to be safe.

Oh, and on the install, be very careful with the stock hoses. It seems as though Mazda used fuel lines which are harder but crack very easily. I'd suggest buying about 2' of 3/16" vacuum house from your local auto part store. You'll need some for the install anyway, regardless of if you crack the stock hoses or not.

Good luck and feel free to post any questions you may have.

EDIT: Oh, and you *do* have a boost gauge installed, don't you?
 
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bought one long time ago but no boost gauge to install it... so how do u test out how many psi r u running at each time u adjust the knot? do u have to drive the car w/ high rpm for every try?
 
Dude, don't even think about installing it until you get a boost gauge. Seriously. Installing it blindly is like playing russian roulette with your engine.
 
Vicocola said:
bought one long time ago but no boost gauge to install it... so how do u test out how many psi r u running at each time u adjust the knot? do u have to drive the car w/ high rpm for every try?
to test what boost level you're running you do a 3rd gear pull. you should get full boost, depending on other mods, by 4k. start with the knob all the way out (or at least close to it), do a pull. turn it down a little, do another pull. repeat until you get where you want it to be.
 
:wtf:No boost gauge and trying to install MBC = blown engine..
Don't do it because you will not be able to set the MBC correctly and will definatly overboost by accident.
BOOST IS ADDICTING!!!!!
(mspblack)
 
Get rid of it. IMHO it is junk. I say this AFTER I got my Blitz SBC ID. sooooooo much easier to adjust, no major boost spikes, or boost creep, like with an MBC.

Sell it, save your money, and get a EBC you will not regret the money you spend on it. :D shade tree tuning, and budget tuning will ultimatly cost you more in the end. IMHO. :D
 
i think he said he knows he shouldn't install it w/o a boost gauge, he was just wondering how to adjust it once he gets a gauge.
 
1st mod on turbo car... BOOST GAUGE.
a good mechanical gauge like autometer, or defi, will run you no more than 115 bucks. And are about as easy to install as you can get. You use a T connector to tap into pretty much any vacuum line on the engine, and run vacuum hose through the firewall, to the back of the gauge. Commonly, you mount it on the A pillar, with a pod, which run about 20 bucks to 40 bucks, depending on number of openings, and size.
Then you find a ground, and illumination source, always on, or you can tap into the dimmer, and your gauges are installed.
VERY easy to do.
This is a MUST with tuning an MBC. And like they said, start low, and do a 3rd gear pull, if its low, adjust it a bit, then another pull. Get it to where you hit the solid boost of 9-11psi(safe ammounts), and leave it there.
Generally speaking, 1psi is about 10-15hp, so gains of 30-50hp can be made. Depending on air density, charge temp, etc. Other mods, such as Exhaust, are also important for maxing out gains during boost situations. The stock MSP exhaust is a tiny 2 inches, with some nasty bends, and is VERY restrictive with 2 cats. Replacing the exhaust, and getting a high flow cat, or a test pipe, depending on smog legalities, and the infamous CEL, will be very beneficial. 2.5-3in mandrel bent stainless is the best, but crush bending ISNT as bad as everyone says, well it can be, but if you have a good muffler shop do it, it wont be that bad....
anyways, ive written a book, but theres some basic info of how to tune an MBC, and why a boost gauge is important.



ps. SEARCH BUTTON!!! :P
 
I did not see the search button above (stupid). Thank you guys/girls for pointing me in the right direction. And yes I was going to add a boost gauge while doing the boost controller install. And yes I realize that not all cars are going to do the same HP-wise given the EXACT same mods. I was just looking to see if there was a general idea as to the hp I should expect to see. I've noticed that ALOT of people have it installed, and there must be a concensus as to its effectiveness!

Follow-up question: Can this be done alone, or should there be a fuel controller added as well. I think JoeP also has a cheapie fuel controller too!?! Does anyone have any experience with this combo or any other that they would like to share!
 
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Well, there's always a need for a true fuel management. However, as long as you stick to around 11psi, you should be fine without tuning.

The other products JoeP carry are the Fuel Pressure Reducer, which helps out with the hesitation felt at stock boost level. I have yet to feel any hesitation with the upped boost. Then again, I have that kit installed, so that may be why. :D

The other item he has is the fuel cut defender. This is one thing I will be ordering. At the upped boost, during colder times, the air gets denser and the MSP will cut fuel based on air flow. The FCD will override this behavior, saving you from going WOT and feeling the "hitting a wall" like stop caused by the fuel cut.

Again, proper tuning with a true FMU will solve all of these issues, but no one has one out yet. It's been rumored that the one that will be out will be around $2800. That's WAAAAY too expensive for me, so I'll stick to Joe's stuff for now.
 
t3ase said:


Again, proper tuning with a true FMU will solve all of these issues, but no one has one out yet. It's been rumored that the one that will be out will be around $2800. That's WAAAAY too expensive for me, so I'll stick to Joe's stuff for now.

Thanks for the insight! I know AEM has their computer out now for a lot of turbo cars, but I'm not sure its avail. for the MSP. Plus, it's like $2g's.

Has anyone on here used electronic boost and fuel controllers together (Apexi AVC-R & S-AFC or Blitz). I can get both Apexi pieces for $550 and would be able to install myself, but I would feel better if someone actually has experience with these controllers. I keep seeing threads about how the MSP is so rich and causes stumbling until boost and they have to reset their ECU (which sometimes works, sometimes doesn't). I can't help but think an electronic brain will do much better in the long run and cause me less headaches than a couple of cheap add-on's!
 
jred321 said:
i think he said he knows he shouldn't install it w/o a boost gauge, he was just wondering how to adjust it once he gets a gauge.

at least 1 outta million of u understands me :) thx for answering too heh
 

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