How-To: Install a Passenger Side Door Lock Switch

ZapWizard

Member
Passenger Side Door Lock Switch
Mazda 2003 Protege LX
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One annoying thing the Protege is that it lacks a button to unlock the doors from the passenger side.
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First I purchased a matching switch from a forum user that was parting-out his protege.
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Using the trim I made an outline of the switch hole.
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Using an exacto-knife I cut out the cloth over the hole.
I removed the door panel, following my guide here: CLICK HERE
I then used a dremel to cut out the hole.
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I took apart the switch to get at the electrical contacts.
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I then soldered two wires to the contacts.
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These wires will connect to the wires running to the Keylock on the outside of the door.
You will have to cut away some of the plastic covering the connector.
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There is a Black/Blue wire, and a Green/White wire, I didn't take the time to trace which wire is ground, and which is the lock signal.
I instead tapped the wires, and if the button didn't work as expected, I would reverse them.
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I then installed the switch into the new hole, and put the door panel back in place.
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The new switch mirror's the driver's side switch, and allows my wife to unlock or lock the doors without reaching over to the driver's side.
 
Very good writeup. I might do this next time I have the door apart. Now, we just need to find a good source for those switches. Maybe mazdastuff.com can get us them at a good price like they do with the intermittent wiper stalks
 
I'm far too lazy to go outside, so I'll ask you guys; will the lock fit easily on a P5 with the diagonal handle going up the door?
 
Rider69 said:
Very good writeup. I might do this next time I have the door apart. Now, we just need to find a good source for those switches. Maybe mazdastuff.com can get us them at a good price like they do with the intermittent wiper stalks
Mazdastuff.com is run by my local dealership, mabye I can stop by and see if we can start a group buy?

In general I don't like that dealership, they still don't have my repair radio in yet (It's been two months!), I usualy drive 30 minutes north, past three other mazda shops to get to the one I like.

anarchistchiken said:
I'm far too lazy to go outside, so I'll ask you guys; will the lock fit easily on a P5 with the diagonal handle going up the door?
I don't know, I don't have a P5
 
*BUMP*

Can I get this moved to the How-to section?

Also, does anyone know where we could start a group buy for door-lock switches?
 
the write up is great.....so is the pictures...EXCEPT those two huge screen shots of your computer doing some type of calculation.....what is that? its the thrid and forth images of your how-to where you are supposed to be making the hole outline and cutting it with an exacto knife....if you don't see it...this is what shows up now....at least at MY computer
 

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Sir Nuke said:
the write up is great.....so is the pictures...EXCEPT those two huge screen shots of your computer doing some type of calculation.....what is that? its the thrid and forth images of your how-to where you are supposed to be making the hole outline and cutting it with an exacto knife....if you don't see it...this is what shows up now....at least at MY computer
LOL, my server has a bug where it sends people the wrong image.
My host can't seem to lock down the bug, but A refresh usualy fixes that.
Good thing there isn't any questionable material on there.
 
Good deal. Only thing I'd be worried about is:

1-potentially screwing up the door (didn't see any details on how to take the panel off)

2-potentially cutting the switch hole poorly. I'd probably make a template first from the other side.
 
ZapWizard said:
Using an exacto-knife I cut out the cloth over the hole.
I removed the door panel, following my guide here: CLICK HERE
I then used a dremel to cut out the hole.​

He gave a link to instructions on how to remove the door panel.​

Taking the door panels off isn't difficult. My door panels have been off about 10 times so far. There's almost no chance of damaging anything, as long as you don't rush (you could break a clip, strip a screw, or scratch the door panel).​

It's an interesting idea, I would just have to be sure I positioned the door lock button at the same position as the driver's side, otherwise it would start to irk me over time.​
 
Kooldino said:
Good deal. Only thing I'd be worried about is:

1-potentially screwing up the door (didn't see any details on how to take the panel off)

2-potentially cutting the switch hole poorly. I'd probably make a template first from the other side.
1: I linked to one of my other guides on how to take the door panel off.

2: Well..... I did actualy cut my hole poorly (hence no photos of the hole)
But I filled the extra space by wrapping tape around the switch, as long as you don't cut the hole larger then the trim.
It's been a few weeks now, and there has been zero problems with it.

I did measure and install the switch at the mirror-placement of the driver's side.
It looks a little too stock as you can't tell it's a mod.

Driver's side:
http://www.zapwizard.com/car/locks/09-Handle.jpg

Passanger side:
http://www.zapwizard.com/car/locks/Switch/10.jpg

I did have to paint both trim pieces black as the extra switch came with a tan trim piece.
 
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How much did the switch cost ya? Thanks for the write up...I was planning on figureing this out when I had time. Since you did it for me now I can focus on how to shut off the ac when the vent switch is on floor or defrost. Thanks.
 
has anyone searched on car-part.com yet? they might be able to get them outta junkers...
 
Alright, so I bought my switch....but I'm pretty confused at where you tapped the wires in.

It looks like you unplugged the plastic connecter and then two blue plastic things show up out of nowhere....but I think I understand, can you just confirm that this is right.

1) You unplugged the white connector to not short anything
2) The blue plastic things are things that you insert a wire into, then snap over another wire. This taps into the wire. Works like landscape lighting.
3) The two black wires twisted together heading off to the right connect to the switch, which is way off to the right, because that's where it needs to be positioned
4) You must reconnect the white plastic connector.


Alright, I'm pretty confident...I was just real confused when I saw that the white connector was not attached. I thought you has somehow bypassed it...but that's not the case.
 
eting_pro5 said:
Alright, so I bought my switch....but I'm pretty confused at where you tapped the wires in.

It looks like you unplugged the plastic connecter and then two blue plastic things show up out of nowhere....but I think I understand, can you just confirm that this is right.

1) You unplugged the white connector to not short anything
2) The blue plastic things are things that you insert a wire into, then snap over another wire. This taps into the wire. Works like landscape lighting.
3) The two black wires twisted together heading off to the right connect to the switch, which is way off to the right, because that's where it needs to be positioned
4) You must reconnect the white plastic connector.


Alright, I'm pretty confident...I was just real confused when I saw that the white connector was not attached. I thought you has somehow bypassed it...but that's not the case.
sounds right to me.

where did you get your switch from?
 
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