how to get rid of boost cut
- Thread starter NAisBST
- Start date
udontknowjack
Member
- :
- mazda mazdaspeed3
drive slower?
Silver Ecstasy
Member
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- 11 MS3 Sport
There's a reason for this. I believe it's from a few different reasons. The throttle plate closes 30% after 5500rpm to reduce boost going into redline. Also, the Hitachi turbo is not made to spin past that. Anything higher and the turbo will actually start to deform over time and fail.
http://www.clubb5.com/information/ko4.shtml
http://www.clubb5.com/information/ko4.shtml
jam_asian85
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3
Get one of these. No need for boost controllers nor boost cut defenders/map clamps:
http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=160_251&products_id=1491
I think your original post got people on two different topics. There is a boost cut in 1st and 2nd gear for traction purposes and the K04 turbo doesnt keep boost until redline to save the life of the turbo because of the turbos design. To get boost all the way until redline there is a cpe flash and the cobb ap that people have mixed feelings about. The sure way to get boost to redline is upgrade the turbo or as suggested upgrade the wastegate. As for getting rid of the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gear I'm not too sure, I rather have the traction than extra boost.
Damn, I just got boostcut for the first time tonight. I was running against a motorcycle (I know I know, but for kicks) and I hit about 110 when it started bucking. I shifted into 6 and it kept bucking. Mods in sig. Could I have been getting boost creep leading to cut cause I was spending time in 5th and 6th gear? BCD and map clamps scare me cause I am taking away my safety net, which could lead to a blown engine.
I know this is different than losing power after 6k..... but the topic is "how to get rid of boost cut" I dont consider that boost cut
want me to start a new thread of stay here??
I know this is different than losing power after 6k..... but the topic is "how to get rid of boost cut" I dont consider that boost cut
want me to start a new thread of stay here??
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- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
There really isn't much that you can do to "Fix It"
This limitation has been programmed into the ecu.
Even cpe hasn't completely figured it out. And at this point i can safely say neither has cobb.
My suggestion to increase top end would be to sell this car and get a honduh(ugh)
Mazda programmed the ecu to limit power on top end to protect turbo.
It been mentioned many times that this turbo isn't efficent over 6k rpms with high boost.
So even if you bought a bigger turbo..you still have the limitations built into the ecu.
-C
Damn, I just got boostcut for the first time tonight. I was running against a motorcycle (I know I know, but for kicks) and I hit about 110 when it started bucking. I shifted into 6 and it kept bucking. Mods in sig. Could I have been getting boost creep leading to cut cause I was spending time in 5th and 6th gear? BCD and map clamps scare me cause I am taking away my safety net, which could lead to a blown engine.
I know this is different than losing power after 6k..... but the topic is "how to get rid of boost cut" I dont consider that boost cut
want me to start a new thread of stay here??
that sounds like fuel cut not boost cut. What are your mods?
As far as power until redline opening throttle will allow you to hold power but you won't be building it. A big turbo will by limited by your throttle when it closes unless you tune it to stay open. I would recommend the ap over the cpe flash because you will be able to tune with it soon when access tuner race is released.
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- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
boost cut it when you exceed the boost limit that mazda programmed into ecu.
fuel cut is when fuel pressure is not enough to support the power that's being generated. This measure has been programmed into ecu to protect you from blowing up your engine from running lean.
fuel cut is when fuel pressure is not enough to support the power that's being generated. This measure has been programmed into ecu to protect you from blowing up your engine from running lean.
exactly. Boost cut happens when you go above 18 psi for a certain amount of time and the car just cuts power. Fuel cut is a stutter or could be worse if its severe. You need to log your fuel pressure to be sure and you may need to upgrade your fuel pump internals with the mods you have.
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- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
If your up at 110 than you are probably hitting boost cut.
I always see higher boost level in 5th & 6th rather than 3rd & 4th.
-c
At least boost cut is easier to deal with, right? Instead of rebuilding the pump, get a clamp, REAL boost gauge, and make sure you don't exceed, what, 20psi? I *should* be boosting in the 18psi range with current mods I've heard.
This is a big weight lifted off my shoulders. Now all I have to do is test it and fix it. Is it a good idea to have a manual boost controller with a map clamp to keep it at the stock level, or is a boost controller really only for upping the boost?
This is a big weight lifted off my shoulders. Now all I have to do is test it and fix it. Is it a good idea to have a manual boost controller with a map clamp to keep it at the stock level, or is a boost controller really only for upping the boost?
I was just about to ask if you had a dashhawk. That thing is worth its weight in gold. If you're going to log, be sure to log fuel pressure too so you can sort things out.
apology inserted here
