How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

so far i got the EGR valve out, cleaned it and just put it back in, but when i was about to take it out it started pouring than it stopped, now when i just put it back in ready to tighten it, it poured again, grr feels like this isnt ever gonna end... >.< i'll give u guyz the update when i'm done! and btw thx vegas for this thread :D!
 
Uh-Oh...

Well, the spring is soaking right now, but...

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I thought you were suppose to take apart the piece on the right. Which I did, it looks fancy in there, I hope I didn't f it up...

Should I be worried?

eek!
 
^ yeah, I put everything back together and the idle is WORSE! I was in a hurry though (had somewhere to be) so I probably didn't clean it well enough...

Now that I've done it once, when I do it again (tomorrow) it should go quicker...

Hopefully the worse idle hasn't been caused by me taking that apart... eek!
 
Re-cleaned the EGR today, let it sit with cleaner in it for 3 30 minute periods...

Backed out of the driveway, idle'ing perfect, when to the stop sign about a block away and she almost died...

hrm

Took her for a drive, still wanting to die or almost die and when she would the belt(s) would squeel as I gave her gas...

Came back, left her running, put some belt dressing on and she idled perfect in the driveway...

Took her for another ride and she never tried to die at all! She still idled a little rough at stop lights, but MUCH better. Came back though and slowed down to get into the driveway (it kinda sucks) and the belts squeeled again...

I think its time for some new belts...

Thanks for this great (old) thread, seems to have worked after the 2nd try. Not sure why it still acted funny during the 1st test drive, maybe the ECU was still "learning" I had the battery unplugged the whole time the EGR was being cleaned...

Car has some other "issues" as well, so I'm thinking as those are fixed the rough idle will go away completely...
 
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I tried to get at this EGR valve again and have had no luck..I think I will go from underneath now.
 
i took out my EGR last weekend and i noticed when i pushed on the spring which makes the valve or whatever it's called open up, and after i release the spring the valve doesnt close? is that suppose to happen? i'm sure it's not suppose too but i was wondering if it is or not ty
 
anybody with the 1.8 FP get their EGR off..I am having the most trouble with this stupid bolt.
 
haha, all fixed now, the spring for valve kept getting stuck, so i kept on pushing up and down til it was loose enough to go up and down on it's own. The car is good now, runs like new, idle is nice and good heh!! thx vegas alot for the tread man hehe!! remember to check if the valve can go back to normal position after putting pressure on it.
 
Hi everyone,

I have a Canadian Mazda Protege SE (1.6 L) which I gather is not available in the US (making parts a little harder to search on the internet).

My idle was very rough, and I had the EGR and IAC valves cleaned out by my technician which helped. After 600km or so, the rough idle is back. I gather by the success of others' in this forum that it would be a good idea to install a new EGR. I'm out of money and patience to pay for labour, so I've decided to replace it myself.

Does anyone know if the 1.6L engine uses the same EGR valve as the 2.0L? The part numbers I've found for the EGR valve and gasket are as follows:

Valve, EGR
1.6L Eng BP4W-20-300A
1.8L, 2.0L Eng FSY1-20-300

Gasket, EGR Valve JE27-20-305A (for both engines, I assume)

These are from a parts guide I found somewhere on the internet. I forget where, so I have poted the file here if anyone is interested : http://physics.queensu.ca/~wpaul/mazda protege parts guide.pdf

The part numbers of the 1.6 and 1.8/2.0 engine are verrry similar ... ? But perhaps not the same? At least, the price of the 1.6 EGR is close to $260, whereas the price of the 2.0 EGR is $130...

If anyone has done this successfully with a 1.6L engine, could you let me know where you bought the part? Thanks!!

Will
 
I'll update for the sake of doing so. I called up Mazda Gabriel and Mazda Spinelli in Montreal, who wanted $285 for the EGR valve for my 2003 Protege 1.6L. NAPA in Montreal wanted $271. I spend a lot of time in Kingston, ON, where I've been going to school this year, where NAPA quoted $244, and Kingston Mazda quoted $141.63. So, I bought it from Kingston Mazda today and installed it. The model number of the replacement kit was ZMY1-18-W00, and included installation instructions and the gasket (which the other stores had as an extra $10). I will scan the installation instructions and post them shortly - they are actually written for the 2.0L engine, so things don't quite look the same, so I would advise taking a look at the workshop manual to figure out where everything is located.

This part includes 3 new hoses: coolant in & out, and a vacuum tube. The weird thing is that the instructions don't seem to mention connecting the vacuum tube to any source of vacuum. It seems to be just a sort of drainage tube which you are told to route to somewhere near the left fender, and point the tube opening downward (I suppose so that liquid can't get in). Anyone know what this 'vacuum tube' is?

Otherwise, the repair did not fix my idle. I was hopeful that this would, as I had the Throttle Body, EGR valve and IAC valve cleaned, which made the car run beautifully for ~600km (also got new spark plugs put in). I think the next step will be to discuss this with Kingston Mazda, and see if they have the IAC valve. They are quite helpful when it comes to encouraging customers to do their own repairs if they are not too difficult.

Another symptom of my problem is poor braking power when driving at low speeds, say around 15 km/h. If my engine is working smoothly at a non-idling speed, the brake power is good, but if I am idling up to a red light very slowly, I can depress the brake pedal, and the car will stop very slowly. My hypothesis here is that the vacuum is not good while the idling is rough, but is good when the engine is running faster.

Actually, this is the reason for which I originally brought my car into the garage was for poor braking power (I'd been told by a different mechanic that the idling was nothing to worry about). So I have also had to pay for a brake booster, and master cylinder because Canadian Tire thought it was necessary (one of the few places open on a Sunday morning). So, I'm running out of money and patience. Hopefully I can pick up an IAC and I'll let you know how that goes.

Will
 
took my egr off today...was a little tougher than i thought it would be...those bolts are kind of a b**** to get at when you can't see them! also, wtf were they thinking with the aluminum phillips screws??? they stripped instantly even with the best matched driver and lots of pressure. vice grips solved that problem real quick haha

sprayed a shitload of brake-kleen and let it sit then dumped it out and let it dry. the valve would stick open and i'd have to pull it out so i dumped some engine oil on it and worked the valve moved freely. Put it back together (which was much easier!) and reset the pcm and now it runs like a champ! so much less jerky in the shifts and the idle sits RIGHT at 750 with NO movement.

Thanks for the how-to! probably the first thing i've done in an engine bay that didn't go horribly wrong lol
 
I talked to someone at Kingston Mazda today. He suggested as well that it was probably vacuum. My question now is this: If it is vacuum related, why did the car run great for 700km after cleaning the Throttle Body, IAC, EGR, and then resume the bad idle with the exact same symptoms? Did the vacuum get worse with time when things got cleaned? And the cleaned things helped it run great for a bit??
 
^ maybe something popped off, or maybe one of the rubber vacuum hoses developed a tear/leak after so many miles of rubbing against another part...

Good luck!

Mine is still slightly rough after cleaning the EGR and doing other fixes, I'm hoping after I seafoam and replace the plugs/wires it'll be cleared up. Its rough enough at times to make me think its missing (possible plug/plug wire or other firing issue)...
 
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