How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

So, it ended up being the EGR as I thought. They replaced it, reset the CEL and away I go, free of charge! Even gave me a complimentry wash, when I picked up the car I had to look twice, as I was suprised it had been washed haha. Hopefully that was indeed the problem, the issue didnt arise on the way back to work, so time will tell.

At least I got a free EGR upgraded valve out of the deal. They said the EGR valve was sticking.
 
Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?
 
just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!
 
Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?
i really think you only have 5 year/50000 mile warranty on anything in the proteges. i could be wrong but thats what mine had. maybe its different for other parts of the world.
 
It was very easy for me to get it from the top. Just removed strut bar and intake pipe. Used 1/4" ratchet with 12mm socket. Have done it with ease many times. And I live in the northeast where more road salt is used and bolts tend to rust.
 
just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!
i didnt have to jack up the car. my car is stock and all i did was removed ait intake hose, battery and strut bar. it was a pain in the ass to work on but i got it out without going under.
 
u guys still babling about this...

Ion no my CEL for the egr has been going on and off recently, but my idle hasnt droppped in forever. rough idle can be caused by other things too. i think i had a vac. leak , or it was my MAF that is now replaced with a celica MAF.
 
just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!


This is exactly what happened on my 1.8 FP. I currently have one bolt off and the one above the motor mount is there. My tiny hands could get in there and get the flex wratchet on...but it was not a good enough angle to crack the bolt and get it off.

So jacking the car up is easier eh?
 
yeah i removed everything out of the way..but still couldnt get the last bolt off, so I just left it on there so I can attempt it somtime this summer.
 
i really have no idea how anyone could get at those bolt from the top. I removed the battery, intake and strut bar like you guys, but it was NOT happening. It was do-able from under the car, but you guys said you were able to get a socket wrench on both bolts? its close, the one bolt, maybe if my wrench was a little slimmer, gotta get that boy some slim fast perhaps!
 
i really have no idea how anyone could get at those bolt from the top. I removed the battery, intake and strut bar like you guys, but it was NOT happening. It was do-able from under the car, but you guys said you were able to get a socket wrench on both bolts? its close, the one bolt, maybe if my wrench was a little slimmer, gotta get that boy some slim fast perhaps!

Yeah I got my flex wrench in there..but there is no room to get a good angle to crack the bolt. Theres seriously like an inch of room to work with in there.
 
well this how i did it.

Look at the ize of my wrist. im kinda skinny(working on it). dont let the veins fool you.
PIC-0470.jpg



Go in between the vacuume? brake line and the other two vac. lines

PIC-0472.jpg


With ur four fingers, use then and PULL.

PIC-0474.jpg
 
ahh i went underneath..stuck my arm all the way under the IM and the EGR. Got ahold of the bolt..but could not turn it at all.

Are you sure the 1.6 is the same as the other engines. The bolts on mine were parallel to the ground.
 
Yeah, your arms are twigs, my forearm is 14" circumference, and i've got gorilla hands. Too much ah....... working out, yeah thats it!
 
Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?


There is a 7 year warranty. Unfortunately I missed it by 6 weeks, now it's going to cost me $250 to change it.
The new EGR valve is now liquid cooled. It's got hoses coming out of it for liquid cooling and breather hoses. I cleaned my old EGR myself a year and a half ago, but I'm paying the dealer to install this one, it looks complicated.
 
Well, I did this procedure over the weekend and my car runs beautifully again. I actually didn't have too much trouble getting the thing out. I removed the battery and strut bar and had plenty of room to work with. The screws sat in PB blast for a half hour and I had to use pliers to get them off. The spring was totally stuck so I spent an hour or so with carb cleaner and a dremel with wire brush attachment. Scrubbed as much buildup off as I could and the spring was moving freely without sticking. Oiled it up a bit and put everything back together. Idles like new!
 

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