How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

...Put your car in gear (with a standard) and push the car forward and back a few times, and then one big push and pull up the e-brake (before it rolls back). That way the engine is rocked forward a little, giving you that extra room to get a small socket wrench on there....

Great catch... But it won't work for everyone especially if you have upgraded motor mounts... My sh!t doesn't rock for nothing. Besided if your motor is rocking that much i think its a good sign of worn mounts
 
When you get a 401 cel code for insufficient EGR flow, how is the ECU figuring this out? I expected some of the connectors to the valve to have a variable resistance, kinda like a throttle position sensor, which confirms that the pintle valve is positioned as requested by the ECU, via the EGR valve motor. But per the manual and inspection, you get a constant 24 ohms or so on all connector combinations, REGARDLESS of where you pull or push the motor's output plunger (you have to remove the 4 screws to do this). It's not detecting the wrong EGR flow from expected O2 sensor readings or manifold vacuum, is it? My valve slides like butter, but I'm still getting the code within 100 miles after each reset. (The exhaust is shut off at the manifold, so my rigging is tantamount to taking a good working installation and inserting a block-off plate between the valve and the manifold; they don't smog test at my locale)
 
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Whats the easiest way to get this stupid EGR off? I am having way to much of a problem getting in that small space.

Got one bolt off..the second one I cant get to because of the stupid rear motor mount I believe thats what it is..well its blocking my wrench from even fitting in the space to get to the bolt.
 
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Did you take off the intake piping from the throttle body to maf? Take it off and you should have some more room. Also I was able to just use a 1/4" ratchet and either 10 or 12mm socket, forgot socket size, and it came off with no problem. Just got to lean half your body into engine bay lol.
 
I took off the intake tubing..got one off and am getting the 2nd one by the motor mount by sticking my arms through all these wires and stuff. The bolt doesnt seem to get any looser..its like im stripping the bolt but not really because I took a look at it with a mirror and it doesnt even look banged up.
 
I like to have room when I work on the car, that means taking out the strut bar out, battery, intake manifold pipe, etc. Once you do all these simple stuff it will make your life easier to remove the EGR bolts.
 
I did this with zero improvement, I know when my header was installed they welded the EGR fitting on because of damaged threads or something. I wonder if this is where I'm getting restriction?
 
I still havent gotten my EGR off. I am out of ideas just short of taking off the whole intake manifold..but thats not gonna be happening anytime soon..
 
yea good write up it makes alot of difference i had a little over 50k on mine when i got it and the guy just said it had an idling problem when warming up it would drop all the way down to 100 and the computer would kick it up to 1500 before it would stall but it still was getting 29 going 80 on the highway so if its gets even better now that would be great
 
Good write up, but I had to get a new one. 2002 144,000 miles Protege LX. I started noticing the problem at 20,000 miles, but ignored it. Then it got bad and threw CEL EGR codes. Tried to clean, but it was so rusted and crusted, that it was time for a new one. Believe it or not, this is the only problem I have had with this car...
 
So here's some interesting news; I asked my Mazda mechanic about the EGR and stumbling idle. He says there is a new updated EGR valve and a TSB. The new valve has coolant running through it or something, anyway supposed to be done for me this week no charge.
 
That's great that you had that done for no charge. I just spend $160 to get an updated one from AutoZone. It has a tougher sheetmetal housing, but no coolant hookup. Hmmmm....Should have asked the dealership about this one. My EGR faield completely at 144,000 miles. I guess I'll just wait until it dies again. Thanks for the head-s up spotthedogg.
 
Well actually they now say yes there is a bulletin but I do have to pay for it. Crap. The EGR is $150 and $60 to install, so now I'd like to know if anyone else has this updated part, is it worth $250+taxes?
 
1) I am having similar issues. Im guessing EGR valve could be on of a few possible solutions. The car (2002 Protege 5) has 96,0000 KM on it. This started roughly 4 weeks ago, every once and while I would drive the car and it would, during idle (stop lights or parked), run really rough and go low low idle, like almost stalling. If I gave it a quick rev to say 3500, the problem would go away and not come back until a few days later. Then it progressed to happening everytime I drove the car, but again if I reved it quick, the problem would go away and not come back till I drove the car next.

Then this weekend it started again and if I reved it, it didnt go away, took about 4-5 revs and then it finally disappeared.

Im going to check plugs and wires tonight, and if I have time take off the EGR valve and do a cleaning on it.

Does this sound like it could be the problem, or more likeley A coil issue?



2) This How To, says to reset the computer? How do I do that and can I without messing anything up?

3) I spoke with a Mazda dealership today and they said If I take off the EGR valve myself I void the 7 year warranty and cant get the replacement, he said you shouldnt mess with it... BS? They said they will diagnose for $105, and they can tell me the problem. If its the EGR valve its all covered under the 7 year warranty and they will throw in the new EGR free of charge. If its not, at least Ill know what the problem is and I can try fix it myself if its the Coils etc...

Then I spoke to another dealership and they said it shouldnt void the warranty.

They also said that if its the EGR valve you should be getting a CEL? I havnt had one yet at all...

What do you guys think?





Thanks!
 
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1) I am having similar issues. Im guessing EGR valve could be on of a few possible solutions. The car (2002 Protege 5) has 96,0000 KM on it. This started roughly 4 weeks ago, every once and while I would drive the car and it would, during idle (stop lights or parked), run really rough and go low low idle, like almost stalling. If I gave it a quick rev to say 3500, the problem would go away and not come back until a few days later. Then it progressed to happening everytime I drove the car, but again if I reved it quick, the problem would go away and not come back till I drove the car next.

Then this weekend it started again and if I reved it, it didnt go away, took about 4-5 revs and then it finally disappeared.

Im going to check plugs and wires tonight, and if I have time take off the EGR valve and do a cleaning on it.

Does this sound like it could be the problem, or more likeley A coil issue?



2) This How To, says to reset the computer? How do I do that and can I without messing anything up?

3) I spoke with a Mazda dealership today and they said If I take off the EGR valve myself I void the 7 year warranty and cant get the replacement, he said you shouldnt mess with it... BS? They said they will diagnose for $105, and they can tell me the problem. If its the EGR valve its all covered under the 7 year warranty and they will throw in the new EGR free of charge. If its not, at least Ill know what the problem is and I can try fix it myself if its the Coils etc...

Then I spoke to another dealership and they said it shouldnt void the warranty.

They also said that if its the EGR valve you should be getting a CEL? I havnt had one yet at all...

What do you guys think?





Thanks!

Where are you and where are dealers THAT BAD? Please update your info so we can help you.
 
I'm in Edmonton Canada. I had my buddy at GM scan the car with their scanner and it wouldn't connect, then on the way home I got a CEL, so I guess ill just go to the Mazda dealership tomorrow and go from there.
 
i have a CEL and according to advanced autopart's scanner, my intake mani runner is stuck closed

is this the same thing that this how to is about?
 
Do you know the actual code number? Mani runner I would assume is the VICS butterflies... nothing to do with the EGR.
 
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