So I replaced my pads last summer with the same pads I've had on the car since I bought it in '06, Axxis Ults.
I didn't have a problem until I took the car to the track for the first time in October, and just did one 20 minute session. I had already paid for the day when I picked up a large bolt in my track car and the replacement tire was on back order, so I figured I'd give the MSP a shot. I was obnoxiously slow, and it was clearly time to replace my valve cover gasket after the hot laps, so I only did the one session.
Anyway, the next day the brakes started squealing. So I put the car in the air and sure enough, one 20 minute track session completely fried the kevlar backing that comes on the Axxis pads. It's kind of impressive that 20 minutes on a track is more punishment than 50k miles of aggressive street driving. I put on some disc quiet goop but it didn't help much, so I eventually said screw it and bought new pads, although I wasn't able to find the Ults for the front again and bought Metal Masters.
So I finally got around to putting those on a month or so ago. They were quiet for all of a week, then the rears would occasionally squeal but at a very high pitch that was somewhat ignorable. It got worse the last few days though so I put the car in the air to see what was going on again.
This is what I saw.
What the hell caused this? When I put the new pads on, I did notice the drag was not even on that particular side when rotating the wheel. There seemed to be a rough spot, but I stupidly figured it would go away after a little bit of braking.
I don't think it is the pads fault since the gauge is only on one part of the rotor. My only theory is that somehow the rotor was not seated properly causing it to rotate at a very slight angle. All lugnuts were tight, so not sure how that would possible unless some debris fell between the rotor and the hub as I tightened things down. Even so, I am not sure how that would create such a nasty gouge. That gouge is as deep as the slots themselves.
Anyway, I put it all back together and now it spins evenly with a slight drag all the way around, but the rotor is obviously destroyed.
So now I have to buy new rotors. They have 50k miles on them, so it is probably about time anyway, but I was hoping to sell the car before I had to invest rotor money into it.
Now the question is, cross-drilled, slotted, both or neither? I am thinking just slots is the way to go since cross-drilleds tend to crack over time, but then they won't match the fronts until I replace them too.
I didn't have a problem until I took the car to the track for the first time in October, and just did one 20 minute session. I had already paid for the day when I picked up a large bolt in my track car and the replacement tire was on back order, so I figured I'd give the MSP a shot. I was obnoxiously slow, and it was clearly time to replace my valve cover gasket after the hot laps, so I only did the one session.
Anyway, the next day the brakes started squealing. So I put the car in the air and sure enough, one 20 minute track session completely fried the kevlar backing that comes on the Axxis pads. It's kind of impressive that 20 minutes on a track is more punishment than 50k miles of aggressive street driving. I put on some disc quiet goop but it didn't help much, so I eventually said screw it and bought new pads, although I wasn't able to find the Ults for the front again and bought Metal Masters.
So I finally got around to putting those on a month or so ago. They were quiet for all of a week, then the rears would occasionally squeal but at a very high pitch that was somewhat ignorable. It got worse the last few days though so I put the car in the air to see what was going on again.
This is what I saw.
What the hell caused this? When I put the new pads on, I did notice the drag was not even on that particular side when rotating the wheel. There seemed to be a rough spot, but I stupidly figured it would go away after a little bit of braking.
I don't think it is the pads fault since the gauge is only on one part of the rotor. My only theory is that somehow the rotor was not seated properly causing it to rotate at a very slight angle. All lugnuts were tight, so not sure how that would possible unless some debris fell between the rotor and the hub as I tightened things down. Even so, I am not sure how that would create such a nasty gouge. That gouge is as deep as the slots themselves.
Anyway, I put it all back together and now it spins evenly with a slight drag all the way around, but the rotor is obviously destroyed.
So now I have to buy new rotors. They have 50k miles on them, so it is probably about time anyway, but I was hoping to sell the car before I had to invest rotor money into it.
Now the question is, cross-drilled, slotted, both or neither? I am thinking just slots is the way to go since cross-drilleds tend to crack over time, but then they won't match the fronts until I replace them too.
